Oh I know, I use Idemitsu but honestly I don't think it's better than any good Jaso rated 2 stroke. The fact that an oil is rated tell me they are invested in their product. I am guessing Idemitsu sales pale in comparison to other companies so it's not worth the expense to try and get certified. It's just easier for me to buy a case of Idemitsu and not have to search for a good 2 stroke locally since for me supply was always changing.

 

ok im lost with with ratio thing
can someone elabrate or this plz

im looking for an ideal mixture for street driving

 

I think most people just go with a half ounce per gallon.

 

Sooo.... My gallon of pennzoil synthetic marine 2 cycle oil is no good?

 

still the best, forget the rest (especially with a cat converter, use 1/2 ounce/gal max)



.

 

I purchase it by the case and am just about to order at least one case. If your interested I can increase my order or share part of a case with you.

 

I wish I could right now Phil, I appreciate the offer but I just can't afford it. Hopefully next time you order one I will be able to.

Do you have to order it by the case from them? I tried checking their website but the "wholesale ordering" part wont load for me at all even if I make an account and am logged in.

 

Idemitsu only sales to wholesale customers with a minimum of 10 cases on a pallet. I would be an Offical Vendor on this forum but with the additional cost, the the numbers dont work for me.

 

I saw you posted earlier that you use lucas semi-syn. I used the same stuff before and I think it works just fine as a premix. I've also used their UCL stuff, which I think burns cleaner and has the same effect, but costs more. The only reason I switched to Idemitsu is that the local o'reillys jacked up the price per bottle on the the lucas stuff, making idemitsu cheaper when purchased by the case, even when I had to drive 20 miles to get it. I'm still on my first case.

 

After I finish up my gallon of pennzoil, I'm going to order a case of idemitsu.

But seriously, whats up with the mixed up information? If you go back a couple of pages, people say using tcw 3 synthetic oils are fine to use, then some people say don't say tcw 3... In the end there really is no evidence to back up which kind of oil is better for premixing... Or is there?

What would be the difference between using TCW 3 or Jaso FC?

 

What would be the difference between using TCW 3 or Jaso FC?

Modern ISO or FC rated two-stroke oil is a synthetic smoke free low deposit lube, made from scratch to accomplish it's task.

TCW3 is low tech slime, not designed to burn, boat motors run super cool, and the oil isn't made for high temps at all - it's supposed to slobber out into the exhaust and has lots of metallic additives to keep everything moving. These would kill a catalyst if used in quantity.
The unburned residue in the exhaust ends up below the surface of a lake, so they tend to put more priority on being bio-degradable. It is common to find it bio-degrading in the boats' oil tank, globbing into a gel.

Just look for a general purpose oil that meets ISO standard E-GD, or the Japanese JASO FC specs.

One more time, please don't use boat slime in your Renesis.

 

One of the side effects of being a terrible oil, is that it is a terrible oil.

The acceptance tests for JASO certification include protecting a loaded piston/cylinder at more than 200:1 ratio.......don't try that with ANY TCW-3 bilgelube.

Yes it's cheap, yes, you can find it at any gas station, but no, don't use it.

 

^^^
Thanks Stealth
I actually have a bottle of this stuff in my garage and was considering using it.

Not sure how I actually got it, likely given to me when somebody moved away.

 

You need to start your own thread.

AGREE, OP start your own thresd...ASH8

 

Sure is.....

Plus, very handy to fix a sticking house screen door lock striker plate, just a thin wipe of A-SP on the flat curved plate and door is as smooth as cream.....screen door now glides shut for the next 4 months, then another wipe.

A1 .....Amsoil.

 

Friend got me a 6 quart box of Saber Pro as a gift. I was running Quick Silver prior, going to try SP for the first time. 6 quarts should last me a while. When it runs out, I got 2 quarts of Idemitsu goodness in the basement.

 

I think some things should be clarified, after several PM's between me and STEALTH and doing some online research on TCW-3. It is definitely designed to be burnt and fully combust without leaving any residue or ash (if it is a synthetic ashless oil). It is made WITHOUT any metallic additives, as it is meant to burn ashless it does not contain any.

While it probably wouldn't do any harm to the car (besides the catalyst), the problem with TCW-3 lies within it's lubricating capabilities. It is not as good as an oil at lubricating as a ISO or JASO FC certified oil is. TCW-3 is an oil that is not good enough to lubricate snowmobiles and motorcycle engines, and has lead to failure to those engines that TCW-3 oils were used in. Not because the oil itself caused the failure, it just didn't serve it's purpose in lubricating the bearings and engine parts that needed lubricity, hence the failure.

So what I'm trying to get at is... TCW-3 oils suck as a lubricating oil. A JASO FC and ISO oil would do a much better job. TCW-3 premix is not the worst thing you can put in the car though, it shouldn't harm it, and it should lubricate some what, but it just isn't the best lubricant we would want for our engine; we would want to get the best we could in there. I just wanted to clarify this and explain some of these details, so that people using TCW-3 as premix don't get scared and think that they have potentially harmed their engine by using a oil with metallic particles (not true) that isn't meant to combust in their car (not true as well).

If you were using TCW-3 oils as I was, you should definitely switch to something else like idemitsu or any other 2-cycle oil JASO FC or ISO rated. This is one long assss thread, and reading through it is a pain, but if one does so you would find how contradicting a lot of the information is. I just wanted to make it easier for some people, and so that others don't make the same mistake I and many others have made.

 

Thank Emery, that is a fantastic clarification. So it doesn't get lost in the thread, I'm moving a quote of this to the front of the line

 

No problem, just trying to contribute and help other members out!

 

I have a 6 spd manual, 2007 Mazdaspeed M'z JDM model with 30k KM. I just started using 0.5 ounce Amsoil Saber Pro per gallon (so about 6 ounces per tank full), but I get the code P0172 (running rich) whenever I put 6 ounces. If I dilute it by adding some more high octane petrol, the CEL goes away (after clearing it of course). About 4 ounces is the max I can run safely per tank without getting the CEL. I'm also feeling a very slight loss of power since I started pre-mixing. Anyone else experience something similar?

 

No, that's quite unusual. Normally, it is practically useless to run anything less than 5oz in a full tank.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...oil-debate-pdf

 

That was one of the articles I read as a source. It's very informational, and will teach you about the differences between the difference standards of 2 cycle oils.

 

My omp must be set low because my 07 6spd auto has never used more than 1/2 quart in 2k miles.

I 'm running 8 oz per 12 gal fillup, took an original plug out at 30k miles and it had almost no black carbon on it.

However, I did put the BHR coils on it.

The spark should be real good under oiling conditions; make sure you've got new coils.

 

Maybe that's what is making the difference. I have the manual and run it hard and use about 1/2 quart of Castrol GTX 10W-40 in about 500KM (couple of tank fills). My OMP setting seems to be higher and along with 6 ounces of Amsoil Saber Pro, it gets too rich. I also took out the CAT recently, before I started pre-mixing.