badinfluence

So I was looking back at an article about the MZR Engine from the Mazdaspeed6 and MazdaSpeed3 (Had a Juan 3), after thinking, **** man the RS engine seems very similar to the Speed in FWD (ST), I wonder how close or how much it was changed for the EgoBoost (No judgement, just have always called it egoboost from smuggers) and I saw somehow post a comment how they hated the RX8! I am guessing it was a series 1 and maybe an early one before TSBs and Mazda taking care of fans.

They complained about the Chassis and Suspension and the power delivery....

WHAT

Anyway that got me thinking about the Series II and the R3/Spirit R. Is the Series 1 and Series 2 average?

(Thinking the R3/SR3 was a "upgrade" to a minor problem, or just Mazda saying **** it, build a ride that makes my brain orgasm, testosterone sky rocket from the married life hormone ****, and make that ****** howl like its got its legs wrapped around your back)

(I refused to think they are bad, poor, mediocre, or even on the poor side of average unless someone has fucked that engine out of balance, and even then I picked up on it on my first drive of a rotary that it was the engine, not the Car. Also because its not FWD cradled/struts/smashed with 300tqs on bumpy roads with ******* wheel hop)

I personally know the endlinks are a must have/change, but this platform has made it this long, and if your reading this post, you obviously are dedicated and enduring, so naysay should be killed off hopefully.

So I had a few questions myself, but I think it would be a good idea to compile some hindsight on the Series II (& Series 1 if I was in that section)

Myself, I am getting over 15 months of Mono/EBT and around the same time I had a possum rummage around the sparkplug area of my R3 and create some kind of hydraulic problem with a bullshit stealership doing what they do and trying to figure out how the electrical cables, actuate the clutch slave cylinder......oh wait they just dug into a car that has started brilliantly for its entire life, didn't even inspect the pedal or even think to follow the ******* Tech Book on the car, then **** me out of my rightful insurance claim. Oh and 1 more awesome ******* thing, the car more than likely had the Clutch Slave or Master cylinder out of alignment, so the throw out bearing was not doing brilliant, but it started, drove, and idled fine. Went to pick it up and the starter draws 250A (2 running cars, 4 batteries) and can't get the car to starting speed (not flooded, just slow RPM from something stuck....) and it wont start, move, or even fiddle to try and get it to not trip the solenoid overheat. 700 bucks and a worthless ******* battery change for no reason, still ended up at Clutch assembly. They wouldn't even try and quote that, not that I would do anything but beg customers to get the hell out of their lobby for their own sake, until they had 5 hours of Diagnostic Time......... (More than like PLUS ******* book time for the clutch.) Threefidy times 10 (guessing $3500), go **** yourself. To add insult to injury the tech advisor knows more about how wood is turned into paper than cars and told me off after I politely paid for my car and asked to be left alone till the tow truck arrived. I was simply tired of excuses....(after 7 months of no callbacks)

So still sickly I am doing things myself, and the frame is amazingly tailored to exactly the transmission design/tunnel/protective drive shaft thing (which is cool by itself)

So I have the transmission ready to drop on the transmission jack, but I didn't want an open hole since I knew the clutch wasn't getting fixed that day.
(AMS Clutch (hopefully the right AMS......Mazda OEM Clutch Disc, AMS Clutch Disc (yes 2 just in case), TOB, MB, Clutch Alignment Tool, Pressure plate, & I also got a rebuild kit for the Clutch Master and Clutch Slave Cylinder. Pedal looks good for now, but if it comes down to it, ill fix or replace myself, **** that dealer, they wouldn't understand a recall or TSB if it bit them in the ***)

Got lucky on the 3Way Cat, it self destructed at some point so its ******* gone and hollow! No wonder I was blowing flames, and yes I don't care if its childish, its my wasted fuel, I love it. (Not doing it on purpose, just Texas head from idle/heatsoak/E33 + Premix/richer tune)

So I ranted, man I am ******* salty as hell, I apologize......

While I have the whole thing apart and raised (that was a bitch.....), what should or could be done to the R3 undercarriage wise. (Obviously Jessica Simpson, that is a given)

Ideas/Tips/Retrospec/Horror Stories/Ideas/Even bleeding edge ones (prefer these!) on the R3 Bilstiens or basically anything in the section I am in......

15 Months of doctors and their bullshit beating off in the bush (forget around it....) put a hole in my savings and not having my car even parked in my driveway to look at put a hole in my heart and soul. So the point is I am not made of money, but I want to do this **** right; but I could also slip right back into the abyss if I go insane on the project. Right now I am just hoping to hear the car run again, I won't sleep for days after that.......(Even with mono lol)



(Edit/PS)
The Electric Supercharger is still in full swing, I have worked since I ordered it from ATS Turbo on my electronic engineering and IOT/Power skills, and other than the 15 months of being a furiously frustrated potato, I have hundreds of quick change designs (modular) to try and frontier the project. I am slower than **** on this one though since I am having to learn to weld pipe/manifolds/sexy gooshes with a 500sq ft house and 1-3 hours of workable energy.

Dude, This thing will either be the end of me, or it will make it onto some car, then be the end of me. Seriously ******* crazy maths going into its box, and in some ways the best thing that ever happened to me engineering wise was buying it. Now to make the ****** spin with 1/20 of the power but 100x the ESR......

Jdmx13b

I almost had a stroke trying to read some parts of your thread LOL.. i just moved to Houston with my r3 from Tennessee!! But yeah the mzr was a joint project with mazda and ford, I believe ford holds the rights to the design too. Believe it or not the valve train assembly is the same as the 4 banger in the chevy cobalt ss, i found all this out through a buddy of mine who at the time was building his mzr needed a new valve train assembly and sourced one from a colbalt!

Yeah as for taking your car to a dealership never do that unless you for sure are getting something replaced under warranty, other than that try to do as much as you can yourself especially on an rx car. Service techs don't know **** about rotary cars. Im a tech at nissan lol so i know a thing or two.. but yeah steer clear of them or any non rotary shop they don't teach it at uti or any trade school so unless you stumble upon a mechanic that owns a rotary car like myself just tell them to **** off.. im gonna be in a similar situation soon with my r3 as i have 86k miles and no cat, it blew up in Tennessee and i threw it out and put a racing beat test pipe LOL and my license plate expires next month, and I don't have 2100 to lay out for a piece of junk to pass emissions here so either shes gonna be hard parked until i can afford an rew swap or im just gonna get my plates renewed in Tennessee...

badinfluence

I was only occasionally throwing the Rich code with my pipe just being a slightly flared pipe (Basically the cat is 100% vaptorized. After it got to temp & or between May - September even with a morning / evening start it took like 2 weeks for it to throw the code (I think 5 times/5 seperate drive cycles it throws the code/light but once is a fail I think or at one point it was a "not ready" rule where if like 2 were off you still passed. Most places give you a 2nd try for free.

I moved back to IL, (which is part of my problem.......or the source of ******* hell since Jan 2016, seriously) otherwise I would take a peak and see if there is a way to fiddle. Don't bother with the kits for the 2nd O2, it mostly uses it for error correction/heat compensation/Cat temp compensation. In my case with NOTHING there it was still hitting 1700F on a stock tune. My tune got it to 1750, but after beating on it hard, most of the time with extra oil injection it was 1550. But again, I had no idea there was no grid inside the pipe.

So if you can find a stock pipe and it happens to have the grid in it, long metal pipe. rubber mallet....install..... Visual inspection passed! Still a gamble with the light. Maybe wait for it to go off one day, and drive to the inspection pit and DO NOT turn the car off and don't let them turn it off.

I have also heard hiding 5,10s.20s works.... I think they just hook their personal car up, but I have seen the system and it looks at the VIN, so I think this was a bullshit story.

Best Dealer Period....Russel and Smith Mazda South Loop 610.
Ask for Nathan if he hasn't been promoted. That guy has a dojo of coolness as far as I am concerned, and you just can't bud heads with him, even with bad news, he is just tactful. Don't take the Lone Star State for granted, IL is fucked......

Moved back with 15 Grand and still had private insurance. 5 grand in the hole with collections, lost 5 teeth to acid from Canadidsis from Thrush out of control, 4 doctors, infectious diese specialist, and 10 grand in dental work just for my teeth to break at the filling. I used to drink and eat toxic waste for 25 years, and when this started happening I went from 0 cavities to a tooth snapping clean off, eliminated sugar, bread, and brushing 3 times a day. Had to basically threaten to sue my doctor to get him to run the Mono lab and he quietly ate humble pie. Doctors and Clinics are awesome in Houston, and you don't have to worry about a shitty Primary Car Provider or MD. Walk in with 20 dollars.....done.....diagnosis...meds....better. Not 5 referrals and Russian roulette.

Also stay away from University General Hospital or whatever their new name is. I worked for them, and was ok, but man their staff got the shaft or at least took out their problems on whoever walked in the door. However, I came to know some of the strongest and most elgalatrian people who stuck around when it got bad, but they eventually got laid off like myself and everyone else. Kind of when your in the real ****, people step up and work together.

**** I did it again, sorry. I miss Houston if you didn't notice. If you ever go anywhere Austin or Houston. Austin IS the new Silicon Valley so it trickles down.

Pick up an FC Engine, PCM, Gage Cluster, and diff from an NA FC. Cheap as hell, maybe free for a reference to tear down, rebuild, study failure.... I had a locked up FC engine, I not only got unlocked, but it ran after some serious wire look bodging. Someone cut it with a letter opener I swear. It is usually the #1 Chamber, Carbon, Corona Effect from Coils/plugs, and flooding that locks them up. It is a feat to do so as far as I am concerned. But anyway, it was scrap, but like a kid with a fridge box, I imagined and studied.

NotAPreppie

Dude, maybe you should post just before you take a dose of your meds rather than after they kick in.

I can't figure out the purpose of this thread other than to complain about how sick you are.

badinfluence

This was before.

Basically what should or could you do while everything is out for a clutch swap.

Exhaust, X members, Drive Shaft, etc. Does the R3 even need anything besides end links. Everything looks great to me. Will prob do Diff Oil and Tranny oil since everything is out of the way and the car is 2ft in the air..

NotAPreppie

Maybe flush the clutch slave cylinder since it's tough to get to.

badinfluence

DOT 3 right? That is what the "Book" says that most stores have in a general sense. BUT as we know that book sometimes says its ok to put a series 1 oil filter on a series 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ******* *****.

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

It's a shared reservoir with the brake fluid.