Yet Another High RPM Flutter...
08-02-2012, 10:27 AM
#101
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so paimon why is our flutters back? that is the real question? could it be our SSV is sticking? and some time it will let loose for a while and then stick again? is there another way of removing the SSV besides the diy of removing the battery moving the engine so on and so fourth? or is their even a way to lube up the ssv without removing it.
08-02-2012, 12:19 PM
#103
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thats what my thought exactly was, I thought it would be plugs wires or coils, or my SSV sticking, which to me makes sense, but I want to know before i go at the ssv, i have been premixing now for about 400km no difference
08-02-2012, 01:10 PM
#104
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You both have BHR Coils correct?...would putting back your OEM's for a test worth a try?.
As far as SSV, Mazda made slight changes back in late S1 and all S2 mainly to the alloy fixing plate on SSV, and bolt, plus a slightly stronger/larger diaphragm, personally I can not see the Valve itself remaining any cleaner than any other S1 SSV over time.
If you have new relatively new plugs, I don't see that as an issue.
As far as SSV, Mazda made slight changes back in late S1 and all S2 mainly to the alloy fixing plate on SSV, and bolt, plus a slightly stronger/larger diaphragm, personally I can not see the Valve itself remaining any cleaner than any other S1 SSV over time.
If you have new relatively new plugs, I don't see that as an issue.
08-02-2012, 01:11 PM
#105
You both have BHR Coils correct?...would putting back your OEM's for a test worth a try?.
As far as SSV, Mazda made slight changes back in late S1 and all S2 mainly to the alloy fixing plate on SSV, and bolt, plus a slightly stronger/larger diaphragm, personally I can not see the Valve itself remaining any cleaner than any other S1 SSV over time.
If you have new relatively new plugs, I don't see that as an issue.
As far as SSV, Mazda made slight changes back in late S1 and all S2 mainly to the alloy fixing plate on SSV, and bolt, plus a slightly stronger/larger diaphragm, personally I can not see the Valve itself remaining any cleaner than any other S1 SSV over time.
If you have new relatively new plugs, I don't see that as an issue.
08-03-2012, 12:20 AM
#106
You should be able to move the SSV actuator arm easily by hand. It is an easy test ratger than pulling it. If it is anything other than smooth and easy in either direction then you will need to open it up. The diaphram is easily checked with a hand vacuum pump.
08-03-2012, 11:14 AM
#107
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I am with Stock coils! i purchased OEM coils from mazda just before i took my car out this year!, Is there a diy to remove and test the SSV? i would like to see it besides the other removal of the SSV itself, which is a fantastic DIY video by the way.
08-03-2012, 12:00 PM
#108
fyi i removed my plugs, saw that the front two plugs had some burn marks on about 25% of the round tip, while the rear were clean and didn't have much deposits on them which led me to believe that my plugs weren't torqued down properly. I cleaned the plugs up, and reinstalled the plugs with a 'wobble' extension (a must have really) and the driving seems to be a lot better ... gunna keep hammering it today to make sure.
Leading Front
Trailing Front
Leading Rear
Trailing Rear
Leading Front
Trailing Front
Leading Rear
Trailing Rear
08-04-2012, 10:38 AM
#111
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I removed my plugs cleaned them , check my coils and wires all work fine and are in good shape. This flutter has me rattled, Could it just not tuned to get the proper amount of fuel? ever since mazda did my engine swap it has been like this? i wonder if i get it tuned what it will do.
08-04-2012, 12:36 PM
#113
Did you gap the plugs? They are never set right from the manufacturer in my experience. It likely doesn't have anything to do with the supposed issue, just pointing it out.
The premix are you using may be causing the buildup and/or it is too much for your driving habits.
The premix are you using may be causing the buildup and/or it is too much for your driving habits.
02-16-2018, 10:22 PM
#115
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I know this is an old thread but I am having the same exact symptoms. Was there ever a final fix to this? I too have a series 2 with this type of fluttering going on. Thanks in advance
02-18-2018, 05:06 AM
#116
It seems the 3 solenoids under the intake manifold can be faulty, search for some info on them, but I;m replacing mine to see if that works. I have flutter at 7500 rpm and above
02-21-2018, 03:04 PM
#117
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I was able to redline freely without a flutter literally from one day to the next I got the flutter at 50% or WOT at around 7.5Krpm. When the flutter happens it hesitates a bit and has a sound similar to when you start a torch up. Other than that very smooth and good power up to 7.5krpm. The only things I have done recently was replace both motor mounts due to the right side being collapsed (this literally gave me a shitty idle for awhile until I figured things out, being collapsed would cause one of the knock sensors to retard timing and pfff there went my idle) and spark plug replacement. Wonder if I didn’t torque them correctly I’ll check that out 1st. Oh and I have BHR coils, BHR midpipe, TurboXs catback, and AEM intake as far as mods go.
Last edited by RX8 GT; 02-21-2018 at 03:12 PM.
03-17-2018, 03:47 PM
#118
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Update!
FIXED: After looking everything over, my flutter/hesitation issue has gone away after reverting back to my stock coils and plug wires from the BHR coil kit. I don’t know why. Surprisingly my idle was pretty stable and I had no DTCs. Weird. But I know Charles will help me out with BHR coil kit.
03-19-2018, 12:33 AM
#119
weird. I noticed this "issue" a few months ago on my R3. I installed the BHR ignition kit at 30,000 miles (I'm at 53,XXX), but didn't really notice the issue until a few thousand miles after that. I've changed my spark plugs again 20,000 miles after that (51,000), replaced my MAF sensor, and replaced the O2 sensor to no avail. I'll see about switching back to OEM from BHR since that seems to have been the issue for all, but one of the cars with this issue. It doesn't seem the AEM CAI was the issue either, but I inspected my screens and they sit properly.
05-02-2018, 11:16 PM
#120
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For those keeping count, add me to the list of people experiencing this problem. I did buy a used 09 and very shortly after had BHR coils, new wires, and plugs installed. Also had the compression tested by a local Mazda dealer just before the BHR ignition swap and all faces pulled solid numbers @ 253 rpm.
Although I didn’t know to pay attention to the fluttering before swapping the coils, I don’t recall the same experience. It was only shortly after I got the new ignition setup installed that I noticed it.
In reading about this issue and following it down the rabbit hole, I’m pretty convinced this is a problem with the oe dwell paired with the BHR setup. Going to try to get my hands on a VersaTuner in the near future and tinker around with the magical dwell tables I’ve found on here.
If anyone in Phoenix has a VersaTuner, I’m happy to meetup.
Although I didn’t know to pay attention to the fluttering before swapping the coils, I don’t recall the same experience. It was only shortly after I got the new ignition setup installed that I noticed it.
In reading about this issue and following it down the rabbit hole, I’m pretty convinced this is a problem with the oe dwell paired with the BHR setup. Going to try to get my hands on a VersaTuner in the near future and tinker around with the magical dwell tables I’ve found on here.
If anyone in Phoenix has a VersaTuner, I’m happy to meetup.
07-13-2018, 05:48 PM
#121
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For those keeping count, add me to the list of people experiencing this problem. I did buy a used 09 and very shortly after had BHR coils, new wires, and plugs installed. Also had the compression tested by a local Mazda dealer just before the BHR ignition swap and all faces pulled solid numbers @ 253 rpm.
Although I didn’t know to pay attention to the fluttering before swapping the coils, I don’t recall the same experience. It was only shortly after I got the new ignition setup installed that I noticed it.
In reading about this issue and following it down the rabbit hole, I’m pretty convinced this is a problem with the oe dwell paired with the BHR setup. Going to try to get my hands on a VersaTuner in the near future and tinker around with the magical dwell tables I’ve found on here.
If anyone in Phoenix has a VersaTuner, I’m happy to meetup.
Although I didn’t know to pay attention to the fluttering before swapping the coils, I don’t recall the same experience. It was only shortly after I got the new ignition setup installed that I noticed it.
In reading about this issue and following it down the rabbit hole, I’m pretty convinced this is a problem with the oe dwell paired with the BHR setup. Going to try to get my hands on a VersaTuner in the near future and tinker around with the magical dwell tables I’ve found on here.
If anyone in Phoenix has a VersaTuner, I’m happy to meetup.
07-14-2018, 08:40 AM
#122
Water Foul
Just to add a data point, I have a 2011 and installed BHR coils in 2013. No changes to the tune. I have mostly had no problems. However...
On the track one day, I noticed something similar to what is being described here as an intermittent "flutter". I suspected a weak coil. I swapped my leading and trailing coils, and the problem resolved. Charles sent me a new coil, and I identified and replaced the bad one. That was 4 or 5 years ago. No problems since then.
Other things to consider:
1. Make sure your ground is clean and secure
2. Make sure your wires are not bundled together and are not laying on the engine or anything else metallic
3. Make sure your firing order is correct
4. Make sure your leads are electrically sound and solidly plugged in
On the track one day, I noticed something similar to what is being described here as an intermittent "flutter". I suspected a weak coil. I swapped my leading and trailing coils, and the problem resolved. Charles sent me a new coil, and I identified and replaced the bad one. That was 4 or 5 years ago. No problems since then.
Other things to consider:
1. Make sure your ground is clean and secure
2. Make sure your wires are not bundled together and are not laying on the engine or anything else metallic
3. Make sure your firing order is correct
4. Make sure your leads are electrically sound and solidly plugged in
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