dealer did not provide compresion figures
 

I have a 011 r3 with 75000 miles that was leaking gas. when i took it in I asked for a compression test. which they said they did and it was not good so they did a decarb. but said injectors were bad and needed replacing . lots of figures about the injectors but none for compression. after a lot of money it is fixed but my question, is this normal for dealers or do to not give compression results

No. If they didn't provide results they shouldn't receive the money. Also the injector story makes no sense. If it was leaking gas, an injector grommet may need to be replaced but not all the injectors.

Did they not retest compression after the decarb to confirm if it's fine now?

they said they did and all was good but nothing on paper showing results . they replaced the rails with the injectors and when I asked what caused the problem no answer

That's bullshit, call Mazda. My 2010 R3 tested "good" and 2 tests later ( all within 3 weeks) bad. I got a new motor. You need to complain of hot start issues and or loss of power and get comp test under warranty.

It's still under warranty for 8 years 100k, the original date sold from dealer is when your warranty starts.

I always got a print out of the test results from 2 different local dealers. I would definitely call Mazda NA and complain about this dealer. They will likely sort it out for you quickly, I have had nothing but positive experiences speaking with them.

Well, I can tell you your engine is fine because I said so. Yep, absolutely fine. Don't worry about it.

Seriously, you American guys have it rough. When I paid for the compression test, the local dealer gave me 2 photos of the compression test numbers without me asking for photos.

YES!!!! You need to demand the "test" should have 6 Kpa values and starter rpm.
Take it to another local dealer, to fix my situation I had to go to 3 different dealerships, but hey a new motor was worth it.

And take a pic of workorder from all the work the dealership did for your fuel issue.

I talked with the dealer rep and he looked for the compression tests which were hand written but will provide. offered to do another test at reduced rate. note that the closest dealer is a county away which takes an hour to get to. I am not in a position to alienate the only dealer I have to work with. not like ford or chev and I like mazda as a company. with all that said would the moderator like to give suggestions that would be workable

An hour for a new motor????? Not worth it???
I am pretty sure if your local dealer "handwrites" rotary specific compression tests....... uhhhh..... I wouldn't let them touch it..... I'm just saying. Dont you have a local rotary club??? The OKC one is solid and saved me a ton of $$$$. FYI a reduced rate.... for something they can't prove they did originally??? BS!!!! Call Mazda, complain of hot start loss of power.... This isn't just an "idea" or "hunch I have, I just went through this with my 2010 R3.

I would "alienate" that dealer anyway, for taking your money, supposedly doing a carbon clean, and lack of professionalism.
I'm on your side.

There should be nothing hand written, that's so unprofessional. It should come printed on a page with the work order on an official invoice on dealership paperwork. Again, call Mazda NA and ask what they suggest, they are familiar with how these things should be done nationwise. It's your right to have this done correctly, I would refuse payment otherwise.

did go to another dealer
 

thanks to help from Herksr3 I went south to another dealer. compression in low 6,s and Mazda approved a rebuild which I will get inside of two weeks. got a new car to use while I wait. if you are in okc I would think twice before using the dealer in Edmond. note that I bought two cars from them

I'm glad it worked out for you!!!! Dont forget to have them inspect your oil injectors and consider the clutch etc. Great group of guys from parts, to service and of course MJ my service advisor.

What he said.
Inspect oil injectors, vacuum solenoids (SSV, VDI, SAIP), inspect oil cooler hard lines for signs of deterioration, proactively replace the release bearing, and consider replacing the clutch if its more than 1/2 worn.

Just turned 750 miles on new motor, mine is completely new according to another thread here on RX8 club, it had the tan tape over the holes etc. And after replacing clutch, pressure plate throw out bearing the slight hesitation to go in gears 2,3,4, at redline is gone!!!
Very different car for sure!!!
I had low compression, bad spark plugs.
When I picked her up, new plugs, BHR ignition, RB header and BHR midpipe.
HUGE difference in driving experience!!!

Next up, just driveability mods ( yes I know no HP increases)
HKS hipower, RB revi duct, SR Motorsports pulley set, and by end of year Versatune to tie it all together

Yes, I had the clutch replaced when I got my reman engine put in. I was just charged for the clutch parts, no labor costs, as the engine was out anyway. Worth checking on your clutch wear. You will never have a better or cheaper moment to replace a worn clutch. Cheers

Can confirm, as I did the same. No charge for labor when they had my motor out, replaced clutch at that time.