Bose w/ aftermarket subs ?
 

I really have 2 questions so plz dont flame on the 1st one. I did my best searching the forums to find my answer.

I remember seeing a post awhile back about with the bose system you cant add subs or something like that. I tired looking for that post again but couldnt find it here in the S2 audio/interior section. So i was wonder if that is true or is there something you can make it work.

Next question

Since we rx8 owners have a small truck space and you never know when you need to fill it up, so i need a little help on find a good single sub that gives me that extra bass over my bose system. Right now i have my eyes set on the Bazooka BT1014http://http://www.crutchfield.com/p_...rand%7cBazooka, but am unsure of the sound quality it puts out. Im not really a big bass guy and want something i can enjoy my dubstep to. If their is another single enclosed subwoofer you recommend over the bazooka that would be very helpful.

Added info about car audio if it helps - 09 R3 w/ bose system

I was running a pair of subs with my Bose for a while.
https://www.rx8club.com/album.php?albumid=2800
Used http://www.reqsound.com/ to integrate the sub amp into the factory wiring. I'm willing to sell it since I have removed the Bose completely now.

The enclosures that I had for that setup kept my trunk very useable, but they were custom fiberglass and NOT cheap. I'd be willing to part with them for the right price, but I think I'll go back to them sometime in the future.

I don't see why a simple line output converter to aftermarket amp wouldn't work...

Just offering up a couple options/ideas from experience.

We tried something like this on my car initially .... and it did work but just didn't really sound that good. Honestly, the only way to get the sound i wanted was scrap the whole F'n thing and start from scratch .... but I'm a little picky , but I would atleast recommend a new head unit if you're going to do subs. I just didn't like it with the factory one.

If you're just adding subwoofers, I would also note to install the LOC on the Bose amp outputs versus the inputs. Should be night and day difference.

pics of location for LOC on the bose amp outputs?

Most of the cheap transformers used in inexpensive LOCs have a -3dB point around 60Hz, which is far from ideal for a subwoofer. If you want a full-range signal, you need the LC2i, which costs around $75 street.

At least one member here just tapped the inputs to the amp with some RCA patch cables and ran them into his Alpine amp. He successfully ran that setup for at least 5 years. I personally cannot recommend this approach, as other members have reported fried head units over time.

I am in the same boat trying to figure out how to best run my JL Audio sub in my 2011 model. The more I think about it, the more I think I need to spend the cash on an LC2.

1. you CAN hook up subs to the bose system
2. 1 kicker cvr 10 inch<-trust me youll see why when you go to mount it

bazookas garbage and will take up more space than a good ol sub&box
kicker, jl audio, alpine, pioneer, planet audio, orion, RE audio....all good stuff

I just finished installing this in my trunk. It made a dramatic improvement.

http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/im...2b829f400ca7_1

It is powered by an Alpine MRP-M500 300W amp.

http://www2.crutchfield.com.edgesuit...MRPM500-f.jpeg

I am planning to start a build thread as soon as my post count is high enough. The car received the above plus a pair of Infinity tweeters in the doors and a pair of Infinity 6x9s in the rear. The only Bose speakers remaining are the 9" drivers in the door.

I cannot recommend this, but I too just tapped the rear speaker preamp inputs at the Bose amp harness and ran them directly into my amp. This could damage my head unit or amps. I measured the output level with an oscilloscope and came up with only 50mV signal, but I do not know what impedance is expected by either component or what load the Alpine amp may put on the signal.

The gain control on the Alpine amp is set to 75%. The crossover is set to 75Hz. And the bass boost is set to 0.

The system sounds much better, but there are compromises that I will explain in the build thread.

I notice this is in the S2 section... if the wiring is the same as the S1 you can tap into the line level inputs of the rear bose amp and use those to feed your sub amp.

I run a 4ohm 300W RMS 10" shallow Kenwood powered by a 2 channel 300W bridged as single low pass amp.

Totally changes the dynamics of the stock system ... highly recommended before going the route of gutting everything.

K so guys any way to just wire a 10 inch sub to the stock without any extra amps an if so how

Short answer: You could, but it wouldn't sound good, wouldn't have enough power, and you'd be disappointed by wasting money.

This cheap $40 amp and this cheap $30 sub will sound so much better than purchasing the most expensive 10" sub you can find and trying to run it off of head unit power.

thx
 

Ok awesome thx for info and being $traight up

Actually, that amp is really not a good idea. It is only 50W RMS per channel, and is not bridgeable. I found 300W RMS to be necessary to get it to blend well with the rest of the system. There are plenty of options under $150.

Still better than running unpowered (and the cheapest amp I could find quickly) ;)
Also, depending on the site, it says it is bridgable, just not stable down to 2 ohms while bridged.

After running spectrum analysis on the amp inputs vs. outputs, it is clear the signal should be tapped at the inputs. The inputs are flat. The outputs are crazy weird. Observe the dark green vs. the magenta:

http://cdn-2-service.phanfare.com/im...173fb397f4b2_1

Nice chart. We're all aware of the wild EQ curves output from all Bose amps in any model car. Nothing new there. But as I said, if you're just adding subwoofers and using a cheapy $20 LOC, use the outputs. You'll never notice a difference in the 30-100Hz range, other than being much louder versus the preamp signal.

I've tried it both ways twice, on two different RX8s too.

I stand by my analysis. Cheapy LOCs have transformers that feature high slopes (up to 24dB) around the 50-60Hz bands (60 is common). So you will be amplifying the 50-80Hz range at best. I would rather amplify the 30-80Hz range, myself, and do it flatly. Anyone who has good ears can hear the difference--at least at the stop light.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...832ac531b5.jpg
This is two 6.5 CT Sounds subs that beat! My husband built a T Line Box that is incredible!Please let us know what you think!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3b6c6e3c95.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bff67160c0.jpg
This is a before pic.
Let us knw what you think.behind the panel is a TLine box.