400hp reliable - rebuild renesis or go rew
 

Pretty much what the title says. I've got some money put back to put into my 09 gt. Would like to make at least 350-400 to the wheels reliably.

So ideas are full rebuild of my renesis, with a turbo

or drop in a rew with a decent single and run it.

Does anyone one have experience with dropout rews? Like if I get an import one will it have any life left in it or will it need a build too.

Really biggest thing is I want to keep cruise control and be able to take the car on a trip if I want too, but It's not really a daily driver

right now it's an 85k mile renesis with compression reading at 7.5 average on both rotors with no big variances at 275rpm. I think that's on the low side, but would it be worth throwing any boost at that motor or is it a time bomb

thanks for any help

Try searching.

Ok well for one good luck trying to tune the series 2 ecu. It is possible to tune but more for reliability related from what ive been reading. Also there are a lot of codes we still haven't deciphered. Of course there is a work around for the ecu with is to get a haltech and start from scratch which the only person to do this with semi success was the guy down in PR. And he was having issues mostly with cooling. Cooling is gonna be your biggest hurdle to deal with. Turbos increase heat drastically and we all know thats not a good thing for our little 13b, so obviously cooling systems will need huge over haul as well as fuel delivery, oil delivery, ignition and spark. Going full race exhaust will help as well. Now for transmission we dont much about it other than it seems to hold up better than the series 1 counterpart. But in terms of how much power it can handle is unknown. Now for rebuilding if it were me doing this to my s2 on stock motor id put rebuild money aside install all supporting and necessary mods run very low boost, hope i dont go bang so i can collect information and then slowly work my way up to 8 psi and then run the car as long as possible. Once it finally goes bang. Figure out why and if it can be avoided then rebuild and fix deficiencies. Lastly if you go with the 13b-rew rebuild regardless of it seems to have life on it always start fresh imo. Hope this helps. Im by no means an expert but hopefully some one can give you a better answer

I don't think reliability and 400hp belong in the same discussion with the renesis block. Just isn't going to happen. I think the better question is what would be a reasonable expectation of life. I would say 40k miles tops, and that may be pushing it. Even 400hp in an REW isn't going to take the abuse forever. I recommend finding the best builder available and spearing no expense if you're chasing those power levels and reliable.

Don't ever add power like you're wanting to an untrusted / used engine. Always rebuild used crate engines from japan. Your current motor has low compression... so no, don't boost it unless you want your seals destroying your new turbo.

RX-8
400 HP
Reliable

----------

Choose any two. The end.

40k miles would tickle me shitless. The car barely gets 5k a year as it is. Reliable to me just means if I want to get in it and go a few hours down the road without worrying.

I was under the impression Mazdaedit could be used to tune. I haven't read much into it yet, it'll be a while before the car gets built, but if it doesn't support much as far as logging goes I'll go another way. I've never tuned a rotary but I've done a fair share of tuning on different piston cars. I understand how sensitive to detonation these engines are.

really just trying to talk myself out of going ls because I've got a few of those already and I'm bored with them

Well, you probably won't be bored with a 400 HP Renesis.

Frustrated, irritated, homicidal... sure. But probably not bored.

I have a 350-400hp renesis and have done for several years . I've gone through a few engines in the process . I have learned much and I do believe reliable is definitely possible.. In summary;for that power you need a good setup, a good tune and good fuel (I use E30) .Have a read of my build thread .

I have took a look at your build thread but it's pretty long and I'm sure I've missed some stuff. How did using the middle ports for wastegate go? did you use factory style apex seals?

i was planning on pump gas and meth.

I doubt I'd be bored with a 400 hp rx8 reguardless of how it's achieved. I have an all aluminum 5.3 that I got for this purpose but I really want to put it in my xlr or my Old truck.

this is the most informed and honest post on this forum.

but i will ask the question.

without pinning the motor with just a plain renesis, what do you think reliable would be?

and with semi mods, what would it be?

i swear, if i could add something to my car that would be at the ~325 to the wheels, and last~ 75k miles i would be all in.. but no..

less is more. my sad life..

not around alot, but still paying attention..

beers :beer:

On a stock block you can run around 300 for a fair while without strength issues .

Add rx7 apex seals and some pining and its ok till it runs out of exhaust flow .

Stock block without any exhaust porting can handle 300rwhp?

You cannot port the exhaust on the Renesis. You can kind of clean it up so it wont collect as much carbon, but there's no performance porting to do. The only exception to this is if you add some kind of peripheral exhaust port. That's a bit of an exotic mod that's only been done a couple times.

stock block turbo reliable 260 to 290 93 fuel pump gas and premix 1onz for 20liter.
Built engine (apex seal powerseal) , street port job, solid corner seal, coolant temperature 170F to 180F with fan upgrade and without thermostat. 93pump gas 300-340rwp. With e85 or vp 370-400rwhp.

I see some rx8 in the dyno and about 400whp is possible with good fuel. But not real for daily drive car, not all the time you can have the rx8 with good fuel unless you have money to able to do that.

my recomendation is:

stock block turbo 260 to 290 93pump gas sxe362 .91 turbine housing borgwarner
built engine 300 to 360. 93 pump gas with methanol. sxe366turbo with .88 turbine housing borgwarner
the key is the fuel,

There is a guy around here that dropped a 20B with a big fat turbo into an R3. He's from Puerto Rico. Pretty sure his car puts out probably around 400 hp

Pretty sure he is right above you.

Personally, I would say those magical two letters if that's your HP goal, but then some rotary guy will probably hunt me down and torture me to death. We are all smart enough to figure out the two magical letters, though.

My engine also went at 60k km because of the coolant seal is leaking water to the rotor 2. I'm still researching about this REW swap for S2, however I couldn't find any information on how I can have the omp system on the REW swapped S2. Most of the swap I found here is using the FD front cover having all the factory functionalities running except the omp (doesn't fit my use case for daily driving).

I hope you can do S2 swap and share the knowledge with us? 😀

There are two major challenges with the Series 2. One is limited tuning options for the Series 2 ECM, which controls the S2 OMP system -- You could run a REW engine on RX-8 OEM engine management, but without a viable tuning solution, it won't get your far. As I understand it, VersaTune may be the only solution that can interact and modify the S2 ECM's. The second challenge you'll face is the rotor housings; the S2 engine has unique rotor housings with the additional oil metering injectors, while REW engines only have one oil injector per housing. It is a OR situation of three oil metering injectors --OR-- peripheral exhaust port.

I wouldn't worry too much about the three oil injectors, especially since the side seals will no longer be stressed with the omission of the side exhaust ports. You could still drive the S2 metering pumps and front cover, blocking off the 2nd and 3rd feeds per pump -- another alternative is to channel the FC design and mount additional injectors in the lower intake manifold.

From what I've gathered, versatuner / mazdaedit has support for S2 ECU for quite sometimes now. There is also a suggestion from the others to use adaptronic m2000 and do a wire-in with the stock ecu.
Yeah I also do not know what to do with those 3 oil feed lines on the S2 rotor housing, while the REW rotor housing only has 1 oil feed line.
Is it safe to block the other 2 feed lines?
Using the FC design, means I need to drill a hole in the LIM for the other 2 oil feed lines?
I'm curious why no one tried to run the FD omp with FD front cover? I saw many swap ran an adaptronic modular, and I also found this https://adaptronicecu.com/blogs/modu...h-modular-ecus or is it too much hassle?

Does it need to be OBD2 emissions compliant? That may be the decision point for you over anything else.

no, there is no emission check whatsoever in my country (and also RHD).

Just use the REW's OMP. Not sure why you specifically need the S2 OMP....

So use adaptronic to drive the REW's OMP and we can fool the factory ecu to think the S2 OMP is plugged? I thought using REW's OMP is not doable, because most of the swap here eliminate the omp instead of using it, even on S1.

If you don't need to be OBD-II emissions compliant, just pitch the factory ECU and use the Adaptronic standalone.

the EMOD013? I thought it can be used only on S1. Also forgot to mention, my car is AT 6 speed (there is only 5 units of manual S2 ever sold in my country, and never saw it being on sale)