RX8Club.com - DIY: Transmission fluid change and Diff + good brake service

So I got my 09 R3 in the shop yesterday (Good advantage to be a service advisor in a Nissan Dealer) got a good 45000 KM maintenance.

For the Transmission Fluid I used (Same as for the Differencial) Lucas synthetic 75w90. Its a bolt 24mm (fill and drain plug for tranny and diff) used a fluid pump to fill back http://www.oildepot.ca/images/extraction-pump-300.jpg (Used aswell for filling the Rear Diff. these are really cheap in parts store and works well.)

transmission: fill and drain plug are on the driver side, mid way across the tranny one on top the other, unscrew both, the fill with you gear oil.
tighten the plug: should not be over tighten, alluminium is realy easy to strip and can cause the bolt to loosen if to tight and the thread is stretch. I finger tighten then by feel with the ratchet (I think should be around 35-40 n-m) filled until top of fill plug, best is to but the plug back A.S.A.P once you remove the pump, you never know if the car is angled so better more than not enough. filled about 2L in the tranny, more or less. (acual number should be 1.8q)

For the rear diff, the only issues Ive seen people are having is reaching the fill plug. best/easiest way I found is to use an extention (about 3-4 inch) and pass over (inside) the lower braket, aligns pretty strait with the bolt. My oil in the diff was pretty dark, more than I expected, I had started to shutter when I used to turn at low speed and I think I was a good idea to change it now from what I saw. filled about 1.5L (actual number should be 1.4q) of the same Lucas 75w90. and same note for tightening.

* Never reuse the same washers, I had orignaly one brass and all other aloy on the car, I used 4 new aloys, any parts store or dealer/garage should have those in stock, there regular size (about 1inch inner diameter).

*Always clean the metal shred on the magnetic drain plug.

*Always make sure you can loosen the Fill plug before draining the fluid

Ive also Done a Full brake clean up, They had been squeeking here and there for some time, I was also suprised to see that the were barely 50% used for the milleage, so grease up the slidders, clean de pads, apply anti-seize and sticky stuff on the pads so they move well and sticks the piston-caliper, clean the shims and buff the rust ridge and contact surface of the disk. Didnt do much improvement in braking power but will take care of the noises and will let them go at lease another 45k I hope, would be nice, for the way the car is driven.
bolts for the sliders are 14 front and back, these are the only 2 bolt you need to remove, then the caliper will slide out, remove the pads, you can remove the bracket if you want to clean it on a bench but can easely be clean fixed on the car, apply antiseize grease to both extremities of the pad and relocate them in the braket (you can put a stuff, forgot the name (anti-squeek)) to the back of the pads, generously, this will stick the pad to the piston and will help release when you step off the brakes. remove the rubber on the slidder clean the old grease, if there any rust build up or grease that are cooked on you want to buff the slidder pins clean before aplying new grease, in the front the lower pin has the rubber on the pins, rear are the same upper/lower. put the caliper back on the pads retighten the 14mm bolts to the sliders (again not too tight, about 30 n-m is more than enough)

*Brake pads with the wear indicator always go on the inner pad (only on passenger side on the stock pads) and the indicator attacking the disk. (meaning if the caliper is facing the rear (like the front on the 8) the indicator will be towards the bottom) and on top if caliper is facing front (like the rear caliper) usualy, they only fit in one direction anyways if you put them back where they WERE lol.

feedback, havent driven much since (did the work yesterday) best improvement was the Diff, It feels alot better cornering at mid speed, feels more flexible to pull you in when you release the gaz and seems to transfer the power better aswell when re-accelerating (grips like crazy)

I didnt feel any or close to no improvement with the tranny, Ill have to see when its cold or after some good runs, the fluid didnt seem that used in the first place.

So its a good read but should be some good info on maintaining your 8. goes the same for series 1.

Next will be my spark plug, changing them from the driver side wheel well seems like the best way to go, ill can make a DIY if you guys find this one was ok. Like I sayd I work in a dealer, so ready access to ALOT of tool, some mods are comming aswell in the next year, Ill try and detail all the work, and take picture next time, I might update this post aswell with pics when I get the car back in the shop.

Total time for tranny/diff flush and 4 wheels brake service, 2.5h taking my time to look around and gave the car a wash.

Hope this was helpful