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The only issue with the T4 (Rotella 15W-40) is the amount of zinc ZDDP it contains. The (past history was) that T4 had higher levels of ZDDP to meet the Diesel requirements. ZDDP effectively binds to the cat and eventually wears it's ability to burn VOCs out. The you may or may not get the P-code and MIL (check engine light). I religiously use T4 in my motorcycles since they already need 10W40 conventional; my MCs do not have any catalytic converters. Does anyone have any oil testing on fresh T4 to confirm past data of higher ZDDP levels?
I removed my Fumoto valve before taking my 8 to the stealership for engine warranty evaluation. I used it to drain the oil first, then unscrewed it. About half a quart of nasty, slightly grainy feeling crap came out of the oil pan. No more Fumoto valves for me.
The original OEM drain plug required a 8mm Allen to remove and it could strip easily. It's so bad that the dealer techs were stripping them left and right.
Apparently, Mazda released an updated version that uses 17mm wrench to unscrew, and is much easier to use and less prone to stripping. It's plug(hah) and play, zero modification needed. It fits perfectly like the original one.
The part number of this updated drain plug is LFE5-10-404.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 05-16-2019 at 11:02 AM.
I removed my Fumoto valve before taking my 8 to the stealership for engine warranty evaluation. I used it to drain the oil first, then unscrewed it. About half a quart of nasty, slightly grainy feeling crap came out of the oil pan. No more Fumoto valves for me.
Yikes! I was worried about that when installing. Since then I've switched to using a vacuum pump to suck out the oil instead of draining from below. It seems to work much better.
Need to reseal the pan though... have a small leak. Will have to see how scummy it is in there.
The original OEM drain plug required a 8mm Allen to remove and it could strip easily. It's so bad that the dealer techs were stripping them left and right.
Apparently, Mazda released an updated version that uses 17mm wrench to unscrew, and is much easier to use and less prone to stripping. It's plug(hah) and play, zero modification needed. It fits perfectly like the original one.
The part number of this updated drain plug is LFE5-10-404.
Not sure. It was thick, like a 75W gear oil. The granules did not seem metallic, but they could have been oxidized by the acids in the oil, and therefore not shiny. I was in a hurry and did not spend much time analyzing it, figuring I would let it settle out in the pan and look into it later. My guess is still metal of some description (what else could it be?). It may or may not be normal, and since the Fumoto valve prevents complete drainage of the oil pan, it may just be the accumulation of normal stuff that usually drains out. Fortunately, the oil pickup should be higher than the level of the crud, so it should not be going directly into the filter, although that makes me want to pull the filter and cut it open.
Thanks for the updated part number. The strippy plug is why I tried the Fumoto valve in the first place. Perhaps my new/reman engine will come with the updated part?
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 05-17-2019 at 07:49 AM.
Most insightful and as we suspected earlier - the extended length of the Fumoto valve into the pan allows for a immobile layer of material to accumulate on the bottom of the pan. Now I have 3 cars to remove Fumoto drain valves - 2 of which are due for oil changes anyway.
I was able to recover 0.3 L of motor oil from my Honda CRV's oil pan once I removed the Fumoto F106 oil change valve from my oil pan (fully drained first with Fumoto valve installed). The oil didn't have any texture to it but was striated indicating that the "bottoms" was different in composition than the oil above. 161K miles with a 2800 OCI this interval. The car oil changes have been 5W20 or 5W30 using Wally World Supertech conventional with a 3-5K OCI ever since the warranty ran out in 2005. The next report will be in removing the Fumoto valve from the RX8 this week. Stay tuned to this channel.
Usually I just follow that on family cars... On an RX-8 I can justify the frequent oil change with frequent flooring and spirited driving, but I struggle to think of any reason to change oil really often on a CR-V. It's not even like it's the 1.5T ones that leak gas into oil. 3k-ish on conventional is probably a good baseline, though. And you can adjust if you have UOA data.
I'd just buy synthetic oil and save myself some time under the car.
I let the oil settle in the pan for a couple of days, then poured it off into bottles. This is what was left in the bottom and formed a ring all the way around the pan. If my engine wasn't on its way out, I'd send a sample to Blackstone out of curiosity. No more Fumoto valves for me.
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Last edited by Steve Dallas; 05-22-2019 at 10:30 AM.
I agree - draining the oil plan fully is important in any car - the 0.3L of leftover oil that the Fumoto leaves behind could be 7% gunk. I'll change my oil on the RX-8 sometime this week(end) and post the results. How much oil came out after removing your RX-8's Fumoto drain valve?
The only other option is to drill a hole or notch the threaded section of the Fumoto to allow it to drain fully.
Last edited by wannawankel; 05-22-2019 at 08:11 AM.
Usually I just follow that on family cars... On an RX-8 I can justify the frequent oil change with frequent flooring and spirited driving, but I struggle to think of any reason to change oil really often on a CR-V. It's not even like it's the 1.5T ones that leak gas into oil. 3k-ish on conventional is probably a good baseline, though. And you can adjust if you have UOA data.
I'd just buy synthetic oil and save myself some time under the car.
I still believe that frequent oil changes (1000K miles on the RX-8 and 3000K conventional oil change intervals on my CR-V) will extend the life of the engine. My best friends' BMW 328 xit says to wait 16000 miles or 8/2020 when the oil was changed recently - that's too long (and yes he should back that OCI up with an oil analysis). One German car design element is to lessen the burden for frequent maintenance on the driver (hence longer oil change intervals, cheating Diesels so that DEF fluid changes coincide with long OCIs).
Yes it has a maintenance minder & I've done all of the maintenance on her since we bought hew new except for a serpentine belt replacement (knuckle mangling job that only cost me a mere $50 to have someone manage). My CR-V is the daily driver now and I plan on holding on to it until she passes on to the wrecking yard (K24 VTEC Yo!). I figure at 17 yo and 160K miles that 3000 mile OCI is fine when using Wal-Mart SuperTech 5W20 (5W30 in Summer). SuperTech is made by Warren or Valvoline and I've had it tested at Blackstone fresh and used (and it meets SAE SN ratings) and costs $13 per 5 quarts ($13 US/4.7 L).
Wally world frequently has name brand conventional oil on sale for nearly as cheap as Supertech. Pennzoil and Castrol are usually ~$15, which makes it difficult for me to want to save $2 by buying Supertech at $13. Of course, Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platinum are often only ~$18, and they are my go-to oils for the rest of my fleet. Mobil 1 can frequently be had on the cheap with rebates as well (check the web site).
BTW, I edited my post above. Once I REALLY drained the oil from my pan, I found metal. Probably an abnormal amount of metal. It might be why my compression is 6.6 on the lower faces.
I still believe that frequent oil changes (1000K miles on the RX-8 and 3000K conventional oil change intervals on my CR-V) will extend the life of the engine. My best friends' BMW 328 xit says to wait 16000 miles or 8/2020 when the oil was changed recently - that's too long (and yes he should back that OCI up with an oil analysis). One German car design element is to lessen the burden for frequent maintenance on the driver (hence longer oil change intervals, cheating Diesels so that DEF fluid changes coincide with long OCIs).
Yes it has a maintenance minder & I've done all of the maintenance on her since we bought hew new except for a serpentine belt replacement (knuckle mangling job that only cost me a mere $50 to have someone manage). My CR-V is the daily driver now and I plan on holding on to it until she passes on to the wrecking yard (K24 VTEC Yo!). I figure at 17 yo and 160K miles that 3000 mile OCI is fine when using Wal-Mart SuperTech 5W20 (5W30 in Summer). SuperTech is made by Warren or Valvoline and I've had it tested at Blackstone fresh and used (and it meets SAE SN ratings) and costs $13 per 5 quarts ($13 US/4.7 L).
I think 1k is pretty often. I don't necessarily like getting under the car often, really. My UOA says 3k is okay so I am sticking with that, unless I am under the car for some other reason and I can do a drain and fill quickly anyway.
And that would also be why I just buy synthetic for piston cars. In a Honda, I would just spend the extra on synthetic, and then change when MM tells me to. Saves me the time to change the oil.
Just saying. If you like doing changes often then that's fine.
Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Wally world frequently has name brand conventional oil on sale for nearly as cheap as Supertech. Pennzoil and Castrol are usually ~$15, which makes it difficult for me to want to save $2 by buying Supertech at $13. Of course, Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platinum are often only ~$18, and they are my go-to oils for the rest of my fleet. Mobil 1 can frequently be had on the cheap with rebates as well (check the web site).
BTW, I edited my post above. Once I REALLY drained the oil from my pan, I found metal. Probably an abnormal amount of metal. It might be why my compression is 6.6 on the lower faces.
Same here in Canada. I could buy a jug of Pennzoil and Castrol on sale for under CAN$20. I buy a few on sale and store them in the garage.
A little late, but this guide is misleading. It says to add 5-6 quarts of oil when in reality around 4 is more appropriate. I dumped a whole 5 quart bottle into it and now it’s overfilled by an inch or so on the dip stick.
01-27-2019, 12:59 PM
