Good to know--thank you. 9,000+ rpms (not rcmd) will generate even more temps.

I have yet to take track data since installing my single Fluidyne unit (with thermostat) but I have taken street data and I find that the ambient temp does not seem to affect operating temps. It has gotten unusually cold here lately (30F) and my temps have been the same as they are when it is 70-75F here. I think we also need to ask where the oil temps are being taken. Because I am taking the readings on the return line out of the cooler. Also, at the factory beep at 9k RPM my Scangauge II only shows about 8400RPM.

How come I cannot post pics?

My location is at the sandwich plate where the oil filter is :)

After some further tests i DON'T recommend this mod for the guys that live in cooler climates or do a lot of highway trips.
I did a couple of runs with the temperatures in the 15-18°C range and my oil temps didn't reach a good operational level. They were rock steady at around 70\75°C. during a highway cruise of about 60km.

Cool mod if you daily drive your car in traffic or during hot summer days but definitely not the best solution for the ones living in cold climates.
I completely taped the vents during the second trip and the temperatures were around 85°c this time.

Since i'm pretty lazy and I don't like having a summer and a winter set of vents i'm working on an electrically controlled vent that can be opened with a small servo motor (like the ones used in RC cars :) )

G

Hey I broke a couple of the plastic pop screw things taking the panel off, anyone know the size of these to buy? I assume I can get these at the local auto store.

i think rotaryfx sells them. not sure about auto parts stores

Noob question:

Why would you want your oil temps to be lower? Doesn't that hurt oil flow/lubrication? I ask after I recently read this link which was posted in another thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

That write-up basically says cold oil = bad for engine. I would assume the Mazda engineers designed the engine to work at a specific oil temperature and the oil coolers are designed to maintain that operating temp. Messing with the air flow to the oil coolers seems like a bad idea to me...

I dont think that's a dumb question. Still looking for the plastic screw clip deals on the liner too if anyone has insight on that.

The plastic clips are available from the dealer.
I have yet to find and aftermarket replacement that fits correctly.
They are about $2 each.

$2 each?!
ouch. I'm sure Paul has got a ton of them lying around, hit him up.

which paul?

oh, c'mon quaz. you're killin' me smalls, you're KILLING me.

paul @ Mazmart.

Try True Value Hardware or ACE

I know I just felt like be onrie. (sp) I was able to find some at my stealership for 1.17 a piece. Still expensive though.

Our engines produce more heat so we are trying to help the oil cooler transfer heat to the air. Under normal operation the oil would heat up to "not cold" to temp anyway.

scribed gonna do this to my car sometime maybe :suspect:

Cool mod to the cooler guards.I did it without the wheels off and it was pretty easy using a dry wall knife.The lines had No corrosin at all.I also put in a drop in K&N which made the car NOTICIBLY more responsive......Has anyone connected a longer intake to the stock one and ran it to the front grille opening? 2007 GT BLACK ON BLACK 16000 MI

Do you mean like this one? (see attachment)
You can find it at: http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

That was off-topic, back to oil cooler discussion

Keeping the thread alive
 

This is a really easy mod, got it done in time for summer, I'm sure it is going to help! :):):)

^ Not exactly how it is supposed to be done, but OK :rofl: .

I just modified the fenders yesterday while doing my brakes. I used a pocket knife to slice the supports and a rough draft for the extra opening. Sliced like butter, but unfortunately, I slipped and jabbed the blade into my pinky finger. A nice 3/4 inch deep wound.

Anyways, it turned out well with filing. Used two different files, one large coarse and a smaller fine file. Very smooth and factory looking.

[quote=SayNoToPistons;3666597]^ Not exactly how it is supposed to be done, but OK :rofl: .[quote=SayNoToPistons;3666597]

Its under the wheel, many people will be looking there in future i'm sure.;) TBH I didnt really care if it looked pretty or not, just to give it a bit more airflow - which is what I have done :anger:

SoooOOo simple to do.

I used a dremel when I did mine.

I did the version 1 of this mod back in April, but after doing all the reading on cooling decided to do version 2, but with a slight modification. Living in Texas I've seen my coolant temps (via my Scangauge) go as high as 220F last week sitting in line at a drive-thru in 100+F heat. I did a full flush and fill of antifreeze and went to a 60/40 split of water/antifreeze a few weeks back. My cooling system is working well but since I do a lot of stop and go city driving I want to maximize the efficiency in stock form. I ended up not cutting out the entire vent panel on the mud guard and left the bottom row intact, primarily because the aluminum mesh I bought wasn't the right width to cover the entire panel in the orientation that I wanted, and I also want a little more protection from debris at the bottom of the guard. I painted the mesh with high-temperature flat black paint and secured to the mud guard with 4 flat-head machine screws (#6 - 32x1/2"), nuts, and lock washers. Quick and easy install and I think looks good.

Awesome thread

Wow one worth reading as I am currently looking to keep temp down.

Maybe time to change my rebuild plans. I was considering keeping the replacement Radiator and fans but now seriously considering the upgrade before getting the engine.

thanks to all