New A arms, no where to mount brake lines
So I just bought new adjustable front A arms, they werent cheap either. They recommended I switch to SS lines when I install the arms and I just noticed why.
They have no attachment for the brake lines, I'm assuming its because they're adjustable and the mounting position would be different depending on the length. https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/...06&oe=54FF928E and this what I'm talking about in case I wasn't too clear, as seen on my oem arms. https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...1dbae44ec16ecc I'm not too savvy when it comes to brakes, so any input on whats going on, buying new SS lines/ mounting or installing would be great. My car is up on stands for the winter and pretty torn apart, so it should be simple to do. Thanks in advance |
Out of curiosity what brand are those? Never seen them before
|
I have SS brake lines but they still come with brackets to mount them on the UCAs. I'm guessing they recommended them because they're more durable than the stock rubber lines which might wear out and burst if you leave them unmounted and flopping in the wheel wells.
|
^ the issue isn't the lines, but the lack of a hard mount on the arm itself. If you are going to be constantly adjusting heights, you wont want a hard mount anyway else you risk pulling the line. Instead your best bet is to loosely put a zip tie around the arm and a SS brake line to at least hold it in proximity to the arm.
|
Originally Posted by LiveWire
(Post 4652615)
Out of curiosity what brand are those? Never seen them before
So i'll let you all know how they are.
Originally Posted by GK1707
(Post 4652625)
I have SS brake lines but they still come with brackets to mount them on the UCAs. I'm guessing they recommended them because they're more durable than the stock rubber lines which might wear out and burst if you leave them unmounted and flopping in the wheel wells.
|
Originally Posted by paimon.soror
(Post 4652631)
^ the issue isn't the lines, but the lack of a hard mount on the arm itself. If you are going to be constantly adjusting heights, you wont want a hard mount anyway else you risk pulling the line. Instead your best bet is to loosely put a zip tie around the arm and a SS brake line to at least hold it in proximity to the arm.
|
Be advised, stainless steel braid turns into a cutting tool when subjected to road vibrations. It WILL cut through most metals that it rubs on. Any attachment points (which need to exist) will need to ensure that the brain has zero movement across the metal it touches. Zip ties will not accomplish this. Standoffs are highly recommended, or at a minimum use a section of rubber hose that can fit over the brake line, then split lengthwise to fit around the brake line, and secure that. The rubber will provide a buffer, and the flex of the rubber will limit or eliminate the abraision of the SS braid, depending on how much motion you have normally.
Not an issue if the brake lines you get are already plastic shielded, one of the sets for one of my other cars was, although another set was not. |
^ good call. The only ones I have worked with have had a plastic shield over the braid
|
OP, what prevents the ball joint from moving when the retaining bolts lose tension, considering you have a heap of negative camber?
|
Originally Posted by RIWWP
(Post 4652636)
Be advised, stainless steel braid turns into a cutting tool when subjected to road vibrations. It WILL cut through most metals that it rubs on. Any attachment points (which need to exist) will need to ensure that the brain has zero movement across the metal it touches. Zip ties will not accomplish this. Standoffs are highly recommended, or at a minimum use a section of rubber hose that can fit over the brake line, then split lengthwise to fit around the brake line, and secure that. The rubber will provide a buffer, and the flex of the rubber will limit or eliminate the abraision of the SS braid, depending on how much motion you have normally.
Not an issue if the brake lines you get are already plastic shielded, one of the sets for one of my other cars was, although another set was not.
Originally Posted by paimon.soror
(Post 4652644)
^ good call. The only ones I have worked with have had a plastic shield over the braid
Either of you know if the stoptech lines have that plastic aforementioned?
Originally Posted by CRO8TIA
(Post 4652647)
OP, what prevents the ball joint from moving when the retaining bolts lose tension, considering you have a heap of negative camber?
|
He is referring to the 4 bolts for the adjustable ball joint position. It's pretty clear from the picture that the heads of the bolts (or any washers) aren't actually gripping much of the mounting plate. This isn't ideal, but not a huge problem for normal camber specs. However, by running the camber that you do, this is actually asking a lot of lateral tension on the bolts. They are going to have to hold up to the lateral weight of the car during turning trying to pull/push the bolts along the slots they ride in, and they don't look beefy enough to do that with much more weight than a go-kart.
I mean, i don't know what look or behavior you are going for because I don't understand it in the slightest, but at a guess, i'd say that the weight of the car pulling laterally will be changing your alignment specs considerably even on slow speed street corners. But, what's one more unsafe item to add to the list... :dunno: I don't expect it will bother you. |
I am sure these have a ton of R&D in them. I would drill and tap them if you plan on securing the brake lines. But if you are constantly adjusting you might want to consider that when you mount them. And unsecured brake line could get caught on shit, especially at bro science height.
|
As for are yours plastic coated? How much did you pay for them? If they were cheaper then the average its a good guess they aren't, but every now and then you find a good deal.
|
Originally Posted by CRO8TIA
(Post 4652647)
OP, what prevents the ball joint from moving when the retaining bolts lose tension, considering you have a heap of negative camber?
Making something "adjustable" like that means looking for trouble. |
I highly doubt there will be issues with the the adjusting bolts braking loose. This company makes adjustable suspension for many different platforms and I haven't heard of anyone having issues with it. The one person in japan who had these arms has had them on his drift car for months at max camber, no issues as of yet.
As for drilling into the arms to mount the lines, I really don't want to ruin the structural integrity of them, if anything I'll weld a mount. |
A bit of hose and a zip tie will work totally fine ;-)
|
Doubts, hopes, and some guy in Japan...
Sounds good, go for it. Not my car or liability. |
Make sure that they are tight and you use thread locker.....there is a lot of stress laterally on an upper ball joint with that much camber.
I have had issues with my lower adjustable bushings "moving" from hitting curbs at the track |
You guys are such cry babies lol. Everyone said the same thing with my rear camber which is (-14) and I have zero issues lol. Now I'm adding maybe 3 more in front. I'm not asking if you guys think it's safe, there are entire threads on this forum talking about how unsafe and undriveable my car is yet I put 5k miles a year on it.
Thank you for the information about the brake lines from the select few of you. I just bought SS stoptech lines. I would appreciate it if the rest of the comments stayed on topic, please. |
Originally Posted by dannobre
(Post 4652693)
A bit of hose and a zip tie will work totally fine ;-)
|
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4652735)
Exactly, some of the people/replies around here are outright ridiculous. :squint:
|
Mazda Rx-8 Front Upper Camber Arms
The RacingBrake braided flex hoses come with seal plastic exterior sheathing |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:57 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands