Front camber problems!
I did some research, and am stumped. Short version of story is I just had a shop install my used (new to me) JIC coilovers. I had them drop the ride height 1/2 inch (don't want to drop it much more). They got my rear camber to -1.8, but for the front they claimed they could only get -1.3! I wanted at least -2.0. They said to help me out in turns they set my caster to 8.0 which seems really high to me. I asked for somewhere in the 5 to 6 range. They claimed taking out caster didn't help the camber.
They said I need a camber kit, and was surprised by this because I hadn't read about them during my prior research. When I did some searches today most people seemed to say you don't need them either. I need to get this fixed, but fear paying for another alignment and being told the same thing when the camber kit is only ~$100. The shop was a performance shop, but don't have a heavy Mazda background. If I do go with a camber kit I am going with the Whiteline one. Thanks. |
They just saying that because your Camber bolts are seized?
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They shouldn't be seized. When I first got the car I had a shop put anti-seize on my camber bolts. The shop did not mention this, and believe they would have. Would have at least been an explanation.
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I don't have JIC coilovers, but I got FL/FR -1.6 camber w/ ~+6.5 caster, Rear both -2. LF ride height was 26.25, R 25.87. Many on this board have similar. So if they managed to install your coilovers correctly at least, the only answers for your difficulty is 1) damaged/rusted suspension parts, 2) alignment person 3) there is no #3. Find a new shop if possible also you failed to mention what you do with the car (street only, track /street, autox). Make sure your needs fit the alignment or you're wasting your money and would be better served w/stock setup w/minor adjustments.
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Camber kits and double wishbones. Lol. Go to a real shop!
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So hard to find a good shop around here... These guys were supposed to be good. Anyone know any really good shops near DC or Baltimore. I'll drive over an hour if they are really good. I am going to try to learn how to do it myself, but was hoping to have a good baseline to start.
I use the car 90% track. It used to be my daily driver, but now just my track beast. That is why I am being particular. |
Originally Posted by Spin9k
(Post 4431323)
1) damaged/rusted suspension parts, 2) alignment person 3) there is no #3.
1. Shouldn't be damaged since I was the original owner. I did driver her in the winter, but like mentioned did have camber bolts anti-seized so hoping not a rust issue. 2. I am leaning towards this as well, but have yet to find a good RX-8 shop near by. |
You don't need an RX8 shop. You need an alignment tech with a clue.
You might want to read a few of the aligment threads on here. This is not a BMW...you don't want to run more camber in the back than the front. |
Originally Posted by dannobre
(Post 4431340)
You don't need an RX8 shop. You need an alignment tech with a clue.
You might want to read a few of the aligment threads on here. This is not a BMW...you don't want to run more camber in the back than the front. |
adjusting from full to minimum caster does make a camber difference
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4431369)
adjusting from full to minimum caster does make a camber difference
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Considering the only parts you can get that will work are offset spherical bearings for the camber adjusters...you might want to look for another shop ;)
The typical Honda boy racer upper amber plates won't do anything, and if the tech thinks they will he really is a dumbass |
it will get you several tenths camber, but if you only have -1.3 front camber when lowered then something else is up. I could get -1.8 to - 2.1 with a Stock suspension
there are a number of techniques/tricks to get it there, I've posted some of them somewhere on the forum |
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