DIY: Tokico Adjustable Shock Install
This install assumes a basic understanding of mechanical principles and possession of typical tools including metric sockets, box wrenches, breaker bars, pry bars, pullers and other tools (air tools are helpful) as well as an adequate method to lift and support the vehicle.
I have pulled the spring assemblies a few times and have tried various short cuts and this is by far the most practical and easiest way to do the job. Instructions are for the left (driver’s side on North American vehicles) and are the same for the right side, though mirrored. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly unless otherwise noted. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...%20COMPARO.jpg FRONT: 1)Raise the vehicle and support adequately with jack stands. Remove the wheels. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...20overview.jpg 2)Open the hood and remove the four 12mm nuts that hold the strut tower brace. Remove the brace. 3)Remove the nuts holding the brace mounting plate to the upper shock mounting block and remove the plate. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...nt%20plate.jpg 4)Loosen, but do NOT remove, the 17mm nut on the top of the shock piston rod. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0rod%20nut.jpg 5)Remove the bolts holding the brake line and wheel speed sensor wires and move them out of the way. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0cable%201.jpg http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0cable%202.jpg 6)Place a floor jack under the lower ball joint and fully load the suspension by raising the jack until the point just before it starts to lift the vehicle off of the jack stands. 7)Remove the both nuts holding the stabilizer bar end-links. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ink%20bolt.jpg 8)Gradually release the floor jack until the end links are easy to remove as the tension is relaxed. Do NOT completely lower the floor jack. 9)Pull the cotter pin holding the upper ball joint nut. Remove the upper ball joint nut. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...oint%20nut.jpg 10)Using a ball joint puller, remove the upper ball joint from the upper spindle arm. It will practically explode out of the mount, so be aware and keep your face/head away from the assembly as it comes apart. It will, at least, scare the crap out of you when it cuts loose with a massive snap/pop. If you forget the jack, it will travel quite a bit and possibly knock your hands off of your arms right at the wrists. I am not kidding. There is a lot of energy stored in that joint. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...t%20puller.jpg http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...puller%202.jpg 11)Remove the lower shock bolt. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ock%20bolt.jpg 12)Lower and remove the floor jack. 13)Using a pry bar, push down on the upper A-arm and pull the shock/spring out of the car. You will need to have the bottom of the tube clear the front sway bar. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0clearance.jpg http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ove%20assy.jpg 14)Mount a spring compressor and compress the spring until it pulls away from the upper mounting block. Failure to do this may result in your decapitation. 15)Remove the 17mm nut from the top of the piston rod and disassemble the shock/spring assembly. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...NT%20parts.jpg 16)Reassemble the shock/spring assembly with the new shock and/or spring, noting the order of the parts and the orientation of the spring seats on the upper and lower seating points. 17)Reassemble the suspension in the reverse order of disassembly and tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifications in the shop manual using a good ratcheting torque wrench. When re-attaching the sway bar end-links, you will need to hold the backing of the threaded portions with a pair of pliers – I use a thin vice grip – or it will spin and never tighten. Be careful not to tear the dust boot. |
2 Attachment(s)
REAR:
1)Remove the trunk liner retaining clips and pull the carpeted trunk liner out on both sides. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...unt%20assy.jpg 2)Place a floor jack under the rear lateral link attachment point on the wheel spindle and raise the jack to load the suspension to the point just short of where the car begins to move on the jack stands. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...20overview.jpg 3)Remove the nut hlding the top of the stabilizer end link to the rear stabilizer bar http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ink%20bolt.jpg 4)Gradually release the floor jack until the end link is easy to move out of the stabilizer bar as the tension is relaxed. Do NOT completely lower the floor jack. 5)Remove the bolts holding the brake line and wheel speed sensor wires and move them out of the way. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0cable%201.jpg http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...0cable%202.jpg 6)Remove the nut and bolt holding the rear lower trailing link to the fram of the car and move the trailing link itself out of the way. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ing%20link.jpg 7)Remove the lower shock bolt. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ock%20bolt.jpg 8)Remove the gold-colored mounting plate in the trunk from the upper shock mount by removing the four 17mm mounting bolts. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...nt%20plate.jpg 9)Remove the two 14mm upper shock mounting bolts from inside the trunk. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...nt%20bolts.jpg 10)Remove the remaining 14mm upper shock mounting bolt from outside the car underneath the mounting point. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...unt%20bolt.jpg 11)Lower and remove the floor jack. 12)Pull the shock/spring assembly out of the car. You will need to have the bottom of the tube clear the rear sway bar. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...ove%20assy.jpg 13)Mount a spring compressor and compress the spring until it pulls away from the upper mounting block. If you were not decapitated while removing the front spring, you might be at this point if you fail to do this. 14)Remove the 17mm nut from the top of the piston rod and disassemble the shock/spring assembly. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/rx...AR%20parts.jpg 15)Reassemble the shock/spring assembly with the new shock and/or spring, noting the order of the parts and the orientation of the spring seats on the upper and lower seating points. 16)Reassemble the suspension in the reverse order of disassembly and tighten all nuts and bolts to the specifications in the shop manual using a good ratcheting torque wrench. When re-attaching the sway bar end-links, you will need to hold the backing of the threaded portions with a pair of pliers – I use a thin vice grip – or it will spin and never tighten. Be careful not to tear the dust boot. Attached below are the pages from the FSM for the front and rear shocks, including torque specs and layout. |
Great write up and good that you included pictures.
I have a comment or two. Also, there is another DIY located at: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-lowering-springs-install-23403/ 1) For the front, an alternative to using a ball joint puller and popping the ball joint would be to unbolt the upper control arm. 2) On the rear, make sure you remove the 10mm nut on the auto-leveling sensor located on the rear and swing it out of the way. 3) On the rear, I did not remove any brake lines. Just the sway bar links from the rear arm, unbolt the rear arm (at the alignment bolts) and swing it out of the way. 4) Please note that you need to pre-load the suspension BEFORE re-tightening the bolts for the shocks and control arms.....otherwise the car will not sit 'normal'. Thanks again for your write up. Alan |
Great writeup! Have you considered getting the extensions to adjust the rears from inside the trunk? Any thoughts on that?
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I didn't remove the brake lines - just pulled the stays off for clearance.
Removing the A-arm main bolts will f*ck your alignment. Pre-loading the suspension is a given - it is the only way to get the sway links back in! I will be getting the RB extensions - I don't feel like cutting up the trunk. |
Maybe I'm wrong, but I believe that anytime you change shocks and/or springs your alignment will most likely be 'f*cked up and you should have one performed shortly after making the change.
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I didn't remove the brake lines - just pulled the stays off for clearance.
Removing the A-arm main bolts will f*ck your alignment. Pre-loading the suspension is a given - it is the only way to get the sway links back in! I will be getting the RB extensions - I don't feel like cutting up the trunk. |
To some degree - if the geometry changes.
However, if you are just changing shocks and the ride height does not change, the alignment will still be whatever it was before the install, unless you pull and active pivot like the A-arm mounts, the lower trailing link or something similar. Even then, it is hit or miss. You might get it back together perfectly. I would even say you probably will get it right. You would have to get it really tweaked to be far enough off to change the toe or caster. However, the A-arm is the most likely to screw you toe short of pulling the tie rod ends. |
Thanks, Good DIY. With the right tools, I could do this.
BTW - what's that 'stuff' under your hood :naughty: , custom intake, red box ?? |
Originally Posted by willhave8
BTW - what's that 'stuff' under your hood :naughty: , custom intake, red box ??
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Just things...
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Just one thing to add.
The Stock Sway links have a 5mm hex hole in them. Use a Allen wrench to hold them from spinning when removing the nut. . I not fond of using grips or pliers on threads anymore. nice write up and pics Jeff. Since I have Tein's I didn't need a spring compressor to remove them from the stock shocks. They are "short" enought to remove easily. They still pop but no where neer like the stock springs!!! *****Disclaimer******* If someone does remove the springs without spring compressors and the proper safety equipment and get hurt. Shame on you. I didn't tell you to do It. *****Disclaimer******* |
mm,
could we get this moved to the diy section so i can find it in a month or two????? beers :beer: |
Originally Posted by 09Factor
The Stock Sway links have a 5mm hex hole in them. Use a Allen wrench to hold them from spinning when removing the nut. .
I not fond of using grips or pliers on threads anymore.
Originally Posted by 09Factor
Since I have Tein's I didn't need a spring compressor to remove them from the stock shocks.
They are "short" enought to remove easily. They still pop but no where neer like the stock springs!!! |
Thank you for the write up. I was looking for the torque specs, now I have them!
Happy New year! |
A bunch of us bought the lowering springs on that special from Rishie, and this thread shows you what to do. I just want to say a few things about safety before some of the newbies attempt this job.
Folks, I can not stress enough the fact that you need a spring compressor. Get one at your local auto parts store. There is LOT of energy stored in the spring. When the nut comes off the end of the shock rod, it and all the pieces between it and the spring will become projectiles. When you are pulling on wrenches to loosen bolts under the car, please do not jerk or pull hard enough to turn the jack stand over. An impact wrench will loosen those bolts with a lot less jerking of the car on the stands. What? You don't have jack stands? Go get a pair. Last safety tip. When you are removing the parts to get the shocks out, you MUST have a jack under the hub to put pressure on the spring. If not, it can really ruin your day. I know he covered all of these things in the thread, but for you novices, please be careful. We want you to be back here telling all of us how well the job went. We do not want your spouses typing for you because you lost a body part or worse. |
You don't need to remove the ball joint on the front. As already said......the a-arm bolts work better. They also don't change the geometry and the alignment. The alignment changes if the ride height is different...cause of the change in height of the tie rod ends......effects the toe.
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Originally Posted by Wilson
A bunch of us bought the lowering springs on that special from Rishie, and this thread shows you what to do. I just want to say a few things about safety before some of the newbies attempt this job.
Folks, I can not stress enough the fact that you need a spring compressor. Get one at your local auto parts store. There is LOT of energy stored in the spring. When the nut comes off the end of the shock rod, it and all the pieces between it and the spring will become projectiles. When you are pulling on wrenches to loosen bolts under the car, please do not jerk or pull hard enough to turn the jack stand over. An impact wrench will loosen those bolts with a lot less jerking of the car on the stands. What? You don't have jack stands? Go get a pair. Last safety tip. When you are removing the parts to get the shocks out, you MUST have a jack under the hub to put pressure on the spring. If not, it can really ruin your day. I know he covered all of these things in the thread, but for you novices, please be careful. We want you to be back here telling all of us how well the job went. We do not want your spouses typing for you because you lost a body part or worse. |
Originally Posted by OnRails
OK I am looking at doing this myself. I understand the danger of undoing the shock assembly and the need for a spring compressor. That part is obvious. It is not obvious to me why the jack is necessary and why this part is dangerous. If the car is off the ground where is potential energy being stored? Is the jack just cause you have to put tension in the assembly so that you can get the bolts out or what? I just want to understand what forces are at play so i can do this safely.
if the car is on jackstands. the stuff comes off... the only danger is if you do not have spring compressors. and you do that part off the car. the diy is good.. for the rear i just unbolted the rear sway.... at the mounting / bushings... beers :beer: |
To be clear, I am wanting to know what is the point of this:
6)Place a floor jack under the lower ball joint and fully load the suspension by raising the jack until the point just before it starts to lift the vehicle off of the jack stands 8)Gradually release the floor jack until the end links are easy to remove as the tension is relaxed. Do NOT completely lower the floor jack. Last safety tip. When you are removing the parts to get the shocks out, you MUST have a jack under the hub to put pressure on the spring. If not, it can really ruin your day. If you forget the jack, it will travel quite a bit and possibly knock your hands off of your arms right at the wrists. I am not kidding. There is a lot of energy stored in that joint. |
: 8)Gradually release the floor jack until the end links are easy to remove as the tension is relaxed. Do NOT completely lower the floor jack. also if you DON'T have the jack under the hub when you remove the rear tie rod, the still compressed spring will shoot the hub down. |
^^ Exactly.
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I would never do it that way ...
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What way?
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Jeff....nice pictures....but you sure like doing things the hard way :D:
I have never pulled any of the front ball joints...the a-arm bolts are way easier....and there is no problem with doing it that way. All that jacking around :D: seems like a lot of work |
Whole car took about an hour of actual work.
I don't like pulling any bolts that run through rubber. You are asking for alignment anomalies. |
You have to align it anyway .......
Have you seen any aftermarket bushings for the A-arms yet. I figure mine will be shot by the end of the year.... |
Originally Posted by dannobre
You have to align it anyway .
Springs are another matter, though the RX-8 suspension is square enough that you will only have to adjust camber and the toe and caster will fix itself (provided it was right to begin with). Then again, I do my own alignments on a regular basis, so my opinion may be skewed.
Originally Posted by dannobre
Have you seen any aftermarket bushings for the A-arms yet. I figure mine will be shot by the end of the year....
I talked with the Energy folks back in November and they were preparing a set, but I haven't heard anything since. |
What you did different than what most people do, or should do if they need a DIY, is you dropped the springs off with the suspension rather than pulling the shock/spring assembly as a whole unit and then using a spring compressor to remove the spring off the shock in a separate step. There are a lot of extra and unnecessary suspension disassembly steps in there as a result
the OE bushings are a very unique design and better than any of the polyurethane crap, if you aren't going to delrin or spherical/pillowball types don't bother |
nicely done MM, thanks!
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
What you did different than what most people do, or should do if they need a DIY, is you dropped the springs off with the suspension rather than pulling the shock/spring assembly as a whole unit and then using a spring compressor to remove the spring off the shock in a separate step.
I pulled the whole assembly off then pulled the spring. I just loosened the top bolt while it is on the car. |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
the OE bushings are a very unique design and better than any of the polyurethane crap, if you aren't going to delrin or spherical/pillowball types don't bother
I have a spare set of upper and lower A-arms for the front to use when mine are shot...and then I'll mod the old ones |
Just when I thought I wasn't confused anymore,,,,
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Huh? How would I do that?
I pulled the whole assembly off then pulled the spring. I just loosened the top bolt while it is on the car. ok, guess I misunderstood, but I'd just pull the upper front control arm pivots loose rather than monkey around with a ball joint, that and undoing where the front shock attaches at the top and bottom lets you swing the whole thing out easily, same for the rear but I drop the lower rear arm instead which requires dropping the rear swaybar endlink (and ride height sensor if you have anything over the base option model) I do my own alignments too, but I'd recommend at least checking it whether you pulled the arms or not |
Funny...we all do it slightly different.....but it still works :D: Ain't life grand....
As mentioned above...be safe. Use jack stands and undo anything you might break. Those headlight levelers are damn expensive...handle with care |
I also unbolt all the shock mounts from the chassis before lifting the car, it all just drops down to max suspension extension when you put it up on jack stands
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This is a great write up. I'm doing this tomorrow w/ Espeliar springs. I don't understand having the jack underneath the hub but I'll do it anyways. It's not too out of my way.
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I have the Tokico D-spec 519 shocks and springs set which is supposed to lower the car 1.25" on all 4 corners and my front almost looks like stock height, or maybe .25" lower than stock, the back however looks like its 1" lower. Any ideas as to what might have made the front not drop so much? The bad thing is I had a shop do it, is it possible they reversed the springs? Fronts in the rear and rears in front? Thanks.
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hey all, anyone know the part # of the front shock dust boot? can't seem to find it in any .pdfs i have access to. :(
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Originally Posted by shinronin
(Post 2332331)
hey all, anyone know the part # of the front shock dust boot? can't seem to find it in any .pdfs i have access to. :(
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How come this isn't in the DIY section?
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Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 2332648)
How come this isn't in the DIY section?
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Originally Posted by Rocketman1976
(Post 2332498)
I almost was going to order some of the stock parts for my shocks to have 2 sets of fully assembled shocks and the dealer faxed me a printout with all the part numbers on a diagram, call and see if they can fax you one. I left it at my uncles shop or I would look it up for you.
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Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 2332648)
How come this isn't in the DIY section?
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Couple things
I did my fronts this weekend.
Pull the spring off slowly so you can get a good look at how the rubber stoppers fit together. If you are doing the Koni yellows you have to drill out the old end caps and reuse them. They do not provide new ones |
When should I replace the bushings?
I'm replacing my struts and springs but i don't know if i should replace the bushings. and or what else should be replaced in the process !
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Hi You couldn't send me the attachments with the torque settings could you?
Thanks John |
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