Stop leak
10-26-2017, 06:44 PM
#1
Stop leak
Ok, I figure this should get a couple people pondering.
I have changed coils to d585. wires and plugs under a year old. Checked coils with timing light. Runs a ton better but still having issue. Losing coolant, I believe through the engine, constantly. I add water about every other day. Looked for leak in radiator. Nothing. Put up to 15 psi on it cold and psi would drop and not hold steady. Started car after rearranging 1 and 2 coils later in the day. Water and smoke out the back. Nice doughnuts blown but I don't want doughnuts.
My guess is the seals are shot and water is getting inside the engine. However, there is no creamy oil. Oil looks fine. Had some condensation in dipstick tube but with cleaning that went away. My question:
What will happen if I use "stop leak" in the system? Works fine in normal engines. Nope, this is not a normal engine, I know. Would the fix get me through the next couple of months? Would the fix blow the engine 100%?
What is happening is the car will run but there is a major slug in it sometimes. After warming for an hour or so it does a ton better. Until that time frame I can drive around at about 40 mph and go to 45 mph, and as I push on the gas the car will jerk and stutter. This can happen as I get going in first, second, and third gear too. Sometimes, prior to the new coils, I would be in 3rd gear at about 5K rpm and I couldn't get any more out of the car when I accelerated. I figured it was coil related and so the change. Yes, once the trim set in things were a lot better but there are still issues. I thought the continued issues were all CAT related after these coils were put in but that may not be the case. Though it could still be an issue. The coolant leak (though never seeing puddles) bothered me and I started thinking that I might have an issue with seals. That is why I spent doing what all I mentioned above, today.
So what are your thoughts and advice?
I have changed coils to d585. wires and plugs under a year old. Checked coils with timing light. Runs a ton better but still having issue. Losing coolant, I believe through the engine, constantly. I add water about every other day. Looked for leak in radiator. Nothing. Put up to 15 psi on it cold and psi would drop and not hold steady. Started car after rearranging 1 and 2 coils later in the day. Water and smoke out the back. Nice doughnuts blown but I don't want doughnuts.
My guess is the seals are shot and water is getting inside the engine. However, there is no creamy oil. Oil looks fine. Had some condensation in dipstick tube but with cleaning that went away. My question:
What will happen if I use "stop leak" in the system? Works fine in normal engines. Nope, this is not a normal engine, I know. Would the fix get me through the next couple of months? Would the fix blow the engine 100%?
What is happening is the car will run but there is a major slug in it sometimes. After warming for an hour or so it does a ton better. Until that time frame I can drive around at about 40 mph and go to 45 mph, and as I push on the gas the car will jerk and stutter. This can happen as I get going in first, second, and third gear too. Sometimes, prior to the new coils, I would be in 3rd gear at about 5K rpm and I couldn't get any more out of the car when I accelerated. I figured it was coil related and so the change. Yes, once the trim set in things were a lot better but there are still issues. I thought the continued issues were all CAT related after these coils were put in but that may not be the case. Though it could still be an issue. The coolant leak (though never seeing puddles) bothered me and I started thinking that I might have an issue with seals. That is why I spent doing what all I mentioned above, today.
So what are your thoughts and advice?
10-26-2017, 07:33 PM
#2
Yeah that sounds like awater jacket seal. If the coolant is going into the engine you wouldn't see creamy oil.
The options are try Stop Leak and rebuild if you still have a problem or don't try it and rebuild anyway. May as well give it a shot... it might work for an hour or a year or not at all. One way to find out!
The options are try Stop Leak and rebuild if you still have a problem or don't try it and rebuild anyway. May as well give it a shot... it might work for an hour or a year or not at all. One way to find out!
10-26-2017, 07:52 PM
#3
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Stop leak or the tried and true method of the 1950s - pepper.
Last edited by wannawankel; 10-26-2017 at 07:53 PM. Reason: just joking about using pepper or Stop Leak
10-26-2017, 08:03 PM
#4
10-27-2017, 10:55 PM
#6
Smoking turbo yay
^Agreed
I think these stop leak products are made for piston engines, so I am not sure if they would work on rotaries at all. Even in applications for piston engines, they don't work that great. Like said, it could cause clogs, and you may as well just replace the head gasket on the piston engine, which is easy enough to do.
Here is a video of Eric the Car Guy talking about these products, with him showing parts of hoses, water pump, etc.
I think these stop leak products are made for piston engines, so I am not sure if they would work on rotaries at all. Even in applications for piston engines, they don't work that great. Like said, it could cause clogs, and you may as well just replace the head gasket on the piston engine, which is easy enough to do.
Here is a video of Eric the Car Guy talking about these products, with him showing parts of hoses, water pump, etc.
