Starting Issues? START HERE.
09-29-2018, 08:30 PM
#326
Smoking turbo yay
It does sound like the engine is dead.
Forget about an LS swap unless you can afford an old Corvette anyway or you are just really that good at fabricating stuff and sourcing really cheap parts.
Forget about an LS swap unless you can afford an old Corvette anyway or you are just really that good at fabricating stuff and sourcing really cheap parts.
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michael_p0301 (09-29-2018)
09-29-2018, 09:12 PM
#327
Just curious: When the dies, do most rebuild, swap or just cut their losses? Would be a good stat to know.
09-29-2018, 10:17 PM
#328
Smoking turbo yay
A reman from Mazda is CAN$3k +CAN$1k core. I asked like a month ago at my local dealer out of curiosity.
Also, a piston compression tester won't be that great because you need the cranking RPM, so you will have to find a way to record it(possibly with an OBD2 reader).
As for what most people do, if budget is a thing you remotely have on your mind, toss the swap idea of the window.
An 8 with a non-working engine is worth about CAN$1k.
Of course, you need to troubleshoot properly. Could be a lot of other stuff, like a massive vacuum leak. Try inspecting and looking for the cheap parts first.
Also, a piston compression tester won't be that great because you need the cranking RPM, so you will have to find a way to record it(possibly with an OBD2 reader).
As for what most people do, if budget is a thing you remotely have on your mind, toss the swap idea of the window.
An 8 with a non-working engine is worth about CAN$1k.
Of course, you need to troubleshoot properly. Could be a lot of other stuff, like a massive vacuum leak. Try inspecting and looking for the cheap parts first.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 09-29-2018 at 10:21 PM.
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michael_p0301 (09-30-2018)
09-30-2018, 10:37 AM
#329
A reman from Mazda is CAN$3k +CAN$1k core. I asked like a month ago at my local dealer out of curiosity.
Also, a piston compression tester won't be that great because you need the cranking RPM, so you will have to find a way to record it(possibly with an OBD2 reader).
As for what most people do, if budget is a thing you remotely have on your mind, toss the swap idea of the window.
An 8 with a non-working engine is worth about CAN$1k.
Of course, you need to troubleshoot properly. Could be a lot of other stuff, like a massive vacuum leak. Try inspecting and looking for the cheap parts first.
Also, a piston compression tester won't be that great because you need the cranking RPM, so you will have to find a way to record it(possibly with an OBD2 reader).
As for what most people do, if budget is a thing you remotely have on your mind, toss the swap idea of the window.
An 8 with a non-working engine is worth about CAN$1k.
Of course, you need to troubleshoot properly. Could be a lot of other stuff, like a massive vacuum leak. Try inspecting and looking for the cheap parts first.
If there is a vac leak - wouldn't I hear a hissing sound? Or not necessarily? Going to look into this as well. Worth a shot I guess.
09-30-2018, 04:12 PM
#330
You had a lot of stuff apart to get to the coils, perhaps it is something silly like a vacuum leak or miswired coils. These things rarely die catastrophically, but it can happen.
Good luck!
A mazda dealer should be able to do a compression test for you.
Good luck!
A mazda dealer should be able to do a compression test for you.
10-06-2018, 07:58 PM
#331
If the car was suffering from low compression - it should not be able to accelerate correct? I don't get how I am running 'lean' if I acceleration seems to be fine? Just low RPMs car stumbles and then dies. Never really had an issue with this car until now.
BTW I did re check the plugs, wires etc. Everything is tight and where it should be. Driving me nuts.
10-06-2018, 08:04 PM
#332
Lately, it has actually been starting but just stumbles when RPMs drop under 2k. Has two codes currently - running lean and rotor 1 misfire still. Now, when I drive the car and keep RPMs high - it drives as it normally would. Before I de-catted, the car had now power above 4k. Now, it accelerates as it previously did. Just anything under 2k, it will stumble and die.
I don't see how I am running lean if I can accelerate to 8-9k RPM? If the car was running lean, wouldn't i have issue accelerating or hesitation?
10-12-2018, 11:38 AM
#333
Smoking turbo yay
A rotary compression test at my local dealer cost me $210 with 12% tax. $400 is highway robbery. My dealer even has the labour rate posted on a wall. This job wouldn't have been more than 2 hours. Do you have a rotary shop near your area?
Running lean could be that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. As your RPM increases, the air flow becomes higher and the air flow from the leak starts to have less influence on your car.
Have you looked at the MAF sensor as well? It could get dirty over time. Give it a good spray.
Lastly, if you are not burning all the fuel, the AFR sensor will also think the car is running lean - as there will still be a lot of oxygen remaining in the exhaust.
Running lean could be that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. As your RPM increases, the air flow becomes higher and the air flow from the leak starts to have less influence on your car.
Have you looked at the MAF sensor as well? It could get dirty over time. Give it a good spray.
Lastly, if you are not burning all the fuel, the AFR sensor will also think the car is running lean - as there will still be a lot of oxygen remaining in the exhaust.
10-20-2018, 10:50 AM
#334
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Hey guys, Ive been through what seems like all the typical things and im starting to get frustrated with getting my car to start.
So heres the deal,
Im drivig an 06 shinka 6mt with about 102k miles. Currently just running BHR ignition and resonated midpipe and a greddy exhaust. The car has seemed strong ever since i got it about 20k miles ago
About a month ago I was heading out of my house when my clutch quit disengaging. I was able to get into reverse and back the car back up my driveway. It took me a while but i ordered all the possible parts the could have failed(slave and master cylinders, stainless clutchline and fluid). The car has been sitting for about a month when i decided is was going go ahead and get the clutch worked out. I planned on starting the car and just idling it down the hill to the shop and that is when i learned it wouldn’t start.
So far i tried the battery, I was low on fuel so I added five gallons of ethanol free gas, made sure the squirrels hadnt stpped up the airbox, pulled the plugs checked those as well as an ignition test, and while they were out i tried Deflooding. (Holy run-on sentence batman)
Im at a loss, i have a hard time believing that the engine just let go at that moment but dont know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated and i would be glad to answer any questions regarding the car and my troubleshooting.
So heres the deal,
Im drivig an 06 shinka 6mt with about 102k miles. Currently just running BHR ignition and resonated midpipe and a greddy exhaust. The car has seemed strong ever since i got it about 20k miles ago
About a month ago I was heading out of my house when my clutch quit disengaging. I was able to get into reverse and back the car back up my driveway. It took me a while but i ordered all the possible parts the could have failed(slave and master cylinders, stainless clutchline and fluid). The car has been sitting for about a month when i decided is was going go ahead and get the clutch worked out. I planned on starting the car and just idling it down the hill to the shop and that is when i learned it wouldn’t start.
So far i tried the battery, I was low on fuel so I added five gallons of ethanol free gas, made sure the squirrels hadnt stpped up the airbox, pulled the plugs checked those as well as an ignition test, and while they were out i tried Deflooding. (Holy run-on sentence batman)
Im at a loss, i have a hard time believing that the engine just let go at that moment but dont know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated and i would be glad to answer any questions regarding the car and my troubleshooting.
10-20-2018, 01:08 PM
#335
Smoking turbo yay
So what kind of situation are you dealing with:
1. No cranks
2. Cranks slowly
3. Cranks normally but just won't "catch"
1. No cranks
2. Cranks slowly
3. Cranks normally but just won't "catch"
10-20-2018, 02:11 PM
#336
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Wont “catch”
the next thing i can think of is maybe some bad/rotten fuel hung up in the injectors but im not sure how plausible that is....
the next thing i can think of is maybe some bad/rotten fuel hung up in the injectors but im not sure how plausible that is....
Last edited by Treton; 10-20-2018 at 02:25 PM. Reason: added injector theory
10-21-2018, 01:43 AM
#337
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Same thing is happening for my rx8 too. 5mt 2006 192ag. But if I crank it longer, I'm getting crankshaft sensor performance cel. I got all the wires and grounding checked, battery is not dead, sensor was changed twice, did the 20 brake pedal reset, but it's the same. It all started when I changed the oil, so I got it changed at the mazda center 2 days later, but the problem is still there. The only thing I found out, is that if I turn the key to ignition, but don't crank it yet, I can hear a sound which imidiatly quits. The guy who did the job says that my fuel pump is going out. Could that be a true problem? And if I turn the key to ignition, wait a few seconds, turn the key off, and do this trick 3 or 4 times, the car turns on fine, like nothing wrong was there. So could it be a fuel pump?
10-23-2018, 03:13 AM
#338
Smoking turbo yay
Same thing is happening for my rx8 too. 5mt 2006 192ag. But if I crank it longer, I'm getting crankshaft sensor performance cel. I got all the wires and grounding checked, battery is not dead, sensor was changed twice, did the 20 brake pedal reset, but it's the same. It all started when I changed the oil, so I got it changed at the mazda center 2 days later, but the problem is still there. The only thing I found out, is that if I turn the key to ignition, but don't crank it yet, I can hear a sound which imidiatly quits. The guy who did the job says that my fuel pump is going out. Could that be a true problem? And if I turn the key to ignition, wait a few seconds, turn the key off, and do this trick 3 or 4 times, the car turns on fine, like nothing wrong was there. So could it be a fuel pump?
Same as above, use a tester to confirm.
10-23-2018, 03:34 AM
#339
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If your ignition works, then a fuel line pressure tester won't be a bad idea. Some auto stores will let you borrow it for free(they charge a deposit that will be returned to you when you return the tool).
Yep, definitely sounds like the fuel pump. It's not building up enough pressure unless you repeatedly prime it.
Same as above, use a tester to confirm.
Yep, definitely sounds like the fuel pump. It's not building up enough pressure unless you repeatedly prime it.
Same as above, use a tester to confirm.
12-10-2018, 07:26 PM
#340
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Help!!
Okay so I have a 05 rx-8 gt, it cranks but won't start, the clutch master cyladner is bad I know for sure, could that be it? I just got it, and it's cold out and the garage isn't heated so that probably doesn't help.
12-10-2018, 07:53 PM
#341
Smoking turbo yay
Could be that you flooded the car. Have you tried the de-flood procedure yet?
02-26-2019, 09:00 AM
#342
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Won’t crank
I just bought a 2005 rx8 AT, It won’t crank, but there is a tick in the fuse box. I replaced the 120a fuse and the battery is a bad battery but we tried jumping it with a new battery and we cleaned the terminals but still no crank. There is a key with a car symbol that is read that will flash sometimes but also sometimes won’t pop up it’s kinda weird but I don’t know what else it could be. The guy I bought it from Sunday said he replaced the starter so I don’t know what the problem is any ideas?
03-01-2019, 02:05 PM
#343
Smoking turbo yay
Do you have the card key?
That's the factory immobilizer.
That's the factory immobilizer.
03-01-2019, 10:38 PM
#344
It's normal for the key symbol to flash every 2 seconds or so. If it flashes rapidly or stays lit, it's preventing you from starting.
The click sounds like the starter relay so either the battery is dead or he screwed something up in the starter connections, or the engine is seized.
When was the last time the car ran?
The click sounds like the starter relay so either the battery is dead or he screwed something up in the starter connections, or the engine is seized.
When was the last time the car ran?
03-02-2019, 09:09 PM
#345
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It's normal for the key symbol to flash every 2 seconds or so. If it flashes rapidly or stays lit, it's preventing you from starting.
The click sounds like the starter relay so either the battery is dead or he screwed something up in the starter connections, or the engine is seized.
When was the last time the car ran?
The click sounds like the starter relay so either the battery is dead or he screwed something up in the starter connections, or the engine is seized.
When was the last time the car ran?
06-15-2019, 09:09 PM
#346
05 automatic 170k won't start
Currently my 05 with 170k won't start. I've done a lot of searching and trying things, so I'll give the direct approach a try.
Recently: new radiator in March 27, along with plugs and wires. Did the brakes March 9. May 26 replaced the coil packs.
My 8 has had a uneven idle for sometime, but never stalled or caused any concern.
The weeks ago: I drove about 70 miles to play baseball, mostly highway/ interstate. When I got near the end of the drive and came onto some traffic lights, the engine was running poorly, and had extremely poor acceleration from the traffic lights from a stopped condition, (like it couldn't get out off its own way) this had NEVER happened before. (The car had generally been very reliable since I bought it in 2008. The engine was replaced at 88k under warentee.) When I arrived at the field and parked, the radiator fan ran, and kept running (this had never happened either). After the 9 inning game, the radiator fan was off, and the car started fine, drove great, however, once near home I did notice the power began to taper off (same 70 mile drive) .
So, I started searching here on rx8club. Two days later I had the car on jacks, removing the cat, upon looking inside I realized that I really didn't know what I was looking at (or for), being an electrician by trade, however, it looked clean to me. So, I figured the car had been good to me for years, I'll spend some money. I went to rock auto, purchased both a cat and a fuel pump (the two most likely culprits - based on my research) a few days later (June 6), I had the ssv cleaned and reinstalled (which was incredible dirty) the new fuel pump installed, and the cat installed. Car started and ran fine, however, no long drives to complete a test of the replacements, I did commute with it twice, about 30 miles, 40 or so minutes, and it drove nicely. Purchased new MAF on June 10 and installed it, precautionary! Changed the oil at the same time.
The second commute afternoon, coming home from work, it began to stall. Engine warmed up completely, back out of a parking spot, engine shuts off, starts up fine. Then at a traffic light, etc. This became more prevalent and dangerous (traffic issues) . I learned to turn off the A/C and feather the gas a little, if needed.
Back to rx8club, likely culprits, eccentric cam sensor, fouled injectors. I purchased the seafoam and planned to pour the correct amount in with a fill up the next morning (I was going to visit family, a brother had a stroke a week earlier, a 370 mile drive)
The next morning, I packed the car up, went to start and leave, the starter engages, turns at the speed it always does, engine doesn't catch, fire, and run. I suspected the fuel pump, removed the back seat cushion, took off the plate, everything seems correct. I tried to start again, taking note that the fuel pump sounds like it runs, car cranks, but doesn't start.
When I say it cranks and won't start, I'm not cranking longer than 10 seconds, that applies to this entire post.
Quickly jacked the car, and in my ignorance, I cleaned the ECC connector, not the sensor itself (remember... electrician) . It still didn't start, but again, cranked fine. I tossed what I could fit on my motorcycle and left. I came home 4 days later, removed the ECC sensor, and it was about 90% covered in road grime. I cleaned it up, did the reset with the 20 taps of the brake pedal and again, engine cranks, no start, not even a 'chug' occasionally.
I do my own maintenance on my vehicles and I tend to realize my limits, this seems odd, it runs fine, then one day the stalling begins, the next day it doesn't start.
Can the ecc just fail?
Id appreciate any questions or suggestions you rx8gawds may have. I apologize for any misspellings, pt jumping around, this has been done on my phone.
Thanks everyone, I know it's a long post.
Recently: new radiator in March 27, along with plugs and wires. Did the brakes March 9. May 26 replaced the coil packs.
My 8 has had a uneven idle for sometime, but never stalled or caused any concern.
The weeks ago: I drove about 70 miles to play baseball, mostly highway/ interstate. When I got near the end of the drive and came onto some traffic lights, the engine was running poorly, and had extremely poor acceleration from the traffic lights from a stopped condition, (like it couldn't get out off its own way) this had NEVER happened before. (The car had generally been very reliable since I bought it in 2008. The engine was replaced at 88k under warentee.) When I arrived at the field and parked, the radiator fan ran, and kept running (this had never happened either). After the 9 inning game, the radiator fan was off, and the car started fine, drove great, however, once near home I did notice the power began to taper off (same 70 mile drive) .
So, I started searching here on rx8club. Two days later I had the car on jacks, removing the cat, upon looking inside I realized that I really didn't know what I was looking at (or for), being an electrician by trade, however, it looked clean to me. So, I figured the car had been good to me for years, I'll spend some money. I went to rock auto, purchased both a cat and a fuel pump (the two most likely culprits - based on my research) a few days later (June 6), I had the ssv cleaned and reinstalled (which was incredible dirty) the new fuel pump installed, and the cat installed. Car started and ran fine, however, no long drives to complete a test of the replacements, I did commute with it twice, about 30 miles, 40 or so minutes, and it drove nicely. Purchased new MAF on June 10 and installed it, precautionary! Changed the oil at the same time.
The second commute afternoon, coming home from work, it began to stall. Engine warmed up completely, back out of a parking spot, engine shuts off, starts up fine. Then at a traffic light, etc. This became more prevalent and dangerous (traffic issues) . I learned to turn off the A/C and feather the gas a little, if needed.
Back to rx8club, likely culprits, eccentric cam sensor, fouled injectors. I purchased the seafoam and planned to pour the correct amount in with a fill up the next morning (I was going to visit family, a brother had a stroke a week earlier, a 370 mile drive)
The next morning, I packed the car up, went to start and leave, the starter engages, turns at the speed it always does, engine doesn't catch, fire, and run. I suspected the fuel pump, removed the back seat cushion, took off the plate, everything seems correct. I tried to start again, taking note that the fuel pump sounds like it runs, car cranks, but doesn't start.
When I say it cranks and won't start, I'm not cranking longer than 10 seconds, that applies to this entire post.
Quickly jacked the car, and in my ignorance, I cleaned the ECC connector, not the sensor itself (remember... electrician) . It still didn't start, but again, cranked fine. I tossed what I could fit on my motorcycle and left. I came home 4 days later, removed the ECC sensor, and it was about 90% covered in road grime. I cleaned it up, did the reset with the 20 taps of the brake pedal and again, engine cranks, no start, not even a 'chug' occasionally.
I do my own maintenance on my vehicles and I tend to realize my limits, this seems odd, it runs fine, then one day the stalling begins, the next day it doesn't start.
Can the ecc just fail?
Id appreciate any questions or suggestions you rx8gawds may have. I apologize for any misspellings, pt jumping around, this has been done on my phone.
Thanks everyone, I know it's a long post.
07-12-2019, 10:03 PM
#348
Just cant fn win
Have had issues after master/slave cylinder change... After finishing the bleeding procedure. Figure out that i flooded it during starting it with no avail so after deflooding and new spark plugs... Got it started yay only to not be able to start it again and even sounds like its in slow motion while trying to crank although there is a brand new red top with 40 jump start connected yet still the no fire really really slow crank any ideas???
09-24-2019, 08:37 PM
#349
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how long before death with bad compression
I am not a tuner in any way at all, but do get how a rotary works.
I have been experiencing long crank-to-start times - a few seconds - over the past few weeks on my '04 RX8 with 100K mi. I am the orig owner -15 glorious years!! - so I took it to dealer to check this out and they tried replacing plugs and wires and found plugs were full of buildup, but also that compression is not so good. Just got it back and first start was similar. It runs/drives great once started -power and acceleration are fine. Assuming this means apex seals going and this could be the death knoll. Service rep said he was sorry to say it was time for a new motor. He recommended I drive it til it dies and then throw in the towel or else replace motor. Any reason I should doubt what dealer told me about compression? Any idea if engine should last a day, a month or a few months until it dies -or totally unpredictable. I did get a recommendation to try double strength Seafoam for a while to see if that helps and I am going to try that. Any other ideas?
I have been experiencing long crank-to-start times - a few seconds - over the past few weeks on my '04 RX8 with 100K mi. I am the orig owner -15 glorious years!! - so I took it to dealer to check this out and they tried replacing plugs and wires and found plugs were full of buildup, but also that compression is not so good. Just got it back and first start was similar. It runs/drives great once started -power and acceleration are fine. Assuming this means apex seals going and this could be the death knoll. Service rep said he was sorry to say it was time for a new motor. He recommended I drive it til it dies and then throw in the towel or else replace motor. Any reason I should doubt what dealer told me about compression? Any idea if engine should last a day, a month or a few months until it dies -or totally unpredictable. I did get a recommendation to try double strength Seafoam for a while to see if that helps and I am going to try that. Any other ideas?
09-25-2019, 08:15 AM
#350
You gonna eat that?
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They're correct.
Mine also, approaching 100k, but I've known it's failing for over a year.
It will eventually stop starting at all, if you don't have a catastrophic failure before.
There's no telling.
Just guessing, not years, more like months.
You have to start thinking about what you want to do.
You can have it rebuilt, replace it with a reman, or get rid of it.
Rebuild will be subpar to a reman since there is likely a lot of damage to your housings.
Mine also, approaching 100k, but I've known it's failing for over a year.
It will eventually stop starting at all, if you don't have a catastrophic failure before.
There's no telling.
Just guessing, not years, more like months.
You have to start thinking about what you want to do.
You can have it rebuilt, replace it with a reman, or get rid of it.
Rebuild will be subpar to a reman since there is likely a lot of damage to your housings.