Solve my rough idle and I will pay you $100 NZD
08-20-2012, 04:10 PM
#26
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08-21-2012, 01:23 AM
#27
Both moving in gear, moving in neutral or stationary in neutral. The sound goes away as soon as the clutch pedal is pushed down past the freeplay amount (2mm) both when moving or still. My friend also squeezed the slave or master cylinder (not sure what one) with his hand to move the release fork off the pressure plate and the squealing noise completely went away so he said it's definitely the thrust bearing squealing but possibly the pressure plate causing it.
08-21-2012, 01:33 AM
#28
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but $180!!!!! just to tell you your ecu is up to date is INSANE.
I really hope you get your issue fixed, i find it DISGRACEFUL so many companies are taking advantage of you
Sorry i couldn't help bro
If i were you i'd go see Brettus, i've read his turbo thread and he seems to really know his ****
Brettus seems to be the only one with a straight up answer
08-21-2012, 01:39 AM
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08-21-2012, 09:52 AM
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my auto rx8 have the same problem :[[[ it even shut down when i turn on the air :[[ what do you think maybe it the catalytic converter????????that cause this vibration??
08-21-2012, 05:22 PM
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Same problem
I had the same problem with mine but what I noticed is it only does that when the AC is on, so I figure its just a voltage problem e.g. too much draw on the battery. No idea how to fix this but you may want to look into it, try shutting off your AC next time it happens.
08-21-2012, 05:45 PM
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I posted a video here of the noise:
https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...-ideas-236623/
Last edited by grisdale; 08-21-2012 at 05:51 PM.
08-26-2012, 08:39 PM
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I just solved my chronic rough idling problem.
You wrote that the throttle body has been serviced twice. Was it actually removed and inspected on the back side? Mine didn't look bad from the accordion tube side but had about a 1/16 layer of deposits on the opposing side. Enough to keep it from freely moving 100%. My dealer NEVER looked when I took mine in for the rough idle. Cleaned properly it should be completely smooth and bare aluminum with no black deposits. It cost me $5 and 30 minutes of my own time. Would have been 15 minutes but I dropped the last bolt for the TB and spent forever looking for it.
You wrote that the throttle body has been serviced twice. Was it actually removed and inspected on the back side? Mine didn't look bad from the accordion tube side but had about a 1/16 layer of deposits on the opposing side. Enough to keep it from freely moving 100%. My dealer NEVER looked when I took mine in for the rough idle. Cleaned properly it should be completely smooth and bare aluminum with no black deposits. It cost me $5 and 30 minutes of my own time. Would have been 15 minutes but I dropped the last bolt for the TB and spent forever looking for it.
08-29-2012, 04:59 PM
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I just solved my chronic rough idling problem.
You wrote that the throttle body has been serviced twice. Was it actually removed and inspected on the back side? Mine didn't look bad from the accordion tube side but had about a 1/16 layer of deposits on the opposing side. Enough to keep it from freely moving 100%. My dealer NEVER looked when I took mine in for the rough idle. Cleaned properly it should be completely smooth and bare aluminum with no black deposits. It cost me $5 and 30 minutes of my own time. Would have been 15 minutes but I dropped the last bolt for the TB and spent forever looking for it.
You wrote that the throttle body has been serviced twice. Was it actually removed and inspected on the back side? Mine didn't look bad from the accordion tube side but had about a 1/16 layer of deposits on the opposing side. Enough to keep it from freely moving 100%. My dealer NEVER looked when I took mine in for the rough idle. Cleaned properly it should be completely smooth and bare aluminum with no black deposits. It cost me $5 and 30 minutes of my own time. Would have been 15 minutes but I dropped the last bolt for the TB and spent forever looking for it.
I had a look at the throttle body and the front side (plate that opens and closes) looks clean on both sides. Did you mean behind the plate was dirty or the other end of the throttle body was dirty? I'm not sure if the mechanic took it out when he cleaned it.
08-30-2012, 02:31 PM
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For mine, it was the inside surface of the TB on the other side of the plate and the plate outside surface (the plate is about 1/8 thick) A cheap LED flashlight works good to see past the plate. It should be clean aluminum. Varnish will look black.
At idle and in gear, when the a/c kicks in, does the RPM increase to about 900/950 or stay at 850 and then start idling rough? If so, its starved for air with the extra draw from the compressor.
At idle and in gear, when the a/c kicks in, does the RPM increase to about 900/950 or stay at 850 and then start idling rough? If so, its starved for air with the extra draw from the compressor.
09-03-2012, 10:06 AM
#38
My 2004 has been like that for years, both before and after an engine replacement, engine mounts, coils/plugs/wires, etc. It's not a terrible vibration, but there's a very noticable difference from the buttery smooth warm idle falling down from 1000, 900 rpm... to the vibrations that only start once it settles at it's lowest point around 850.
I don' t know if it's "normal," but it sure is common. And like you said, maybe we're being fussy, but it's just sooooo nice when just 100 rpms higher.
Sad thing is I don't think I've read a thread where someone said they had this problem, then did [insert magical procedure], and it then idled perfectly smooth.
I don' t know if it's "normal," but it sure is common. And like you said, maybe we're being fussy, but it's just sooooo nice when just 100 rpms higher.
Sad thing is I don't think I've read a thread where someone said they had this problem, then did [insert magical procedure], and it then idled perfectly smooth.
09-29-2019, 06:58 AM
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Similar issues.
Figure out what’s causing my rough idle and I will Bank Deposit/PayPal you $100 NZD!!
I purchased a 2003 RX8 Type S (6 Speed Manual) about 8 months ago (75,000KM’s), I’ve had 5 mechanics look at it and $7000 later it’s still idling rough.
When it idles it sits between 800-830 with the electronics/aircon off. With lights and rear window defogger on it sits around 820-840 and the vibrations are a lot worse. The vibrations can be felt all over the car, I notice it in both seats and steering wheel but that’s the only part I’m touching.
If I have the car running and open the hood I can see the engine slightly shaking as well as the air intake and airbox. These are constant vibrations but as the idle adjusts you can also feel strong pulses. If I push the RPM to 1000 the vibrations are completely gone and it will be smooth until I let off the gas. If I let the idle drop back to 800 there will be very strong vibrations as the RMP hits 800 then the vibrations will soften and come at a constant rate with intermittent strong pulses.
I have had the following parts replaced in this order:
Full Service and Inspection by Mazda
New Battery
New Spark Plugs
New Air Filter
Full Engine Rebuild
New Starter Motor
New Oil Filter
New Air Filter
New Spark Plugs
Throttle Body Cleaned
New Fan Belts
New Engine Mounts
Post Rebuild Service
New Coils
New Ignition Wires
PCM Flashed to latest JDM version
I have also tried doing the following procedures:
Cleaned the MAF
Cleaned the Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Cleaned Air Intake
Tried Removing Air Intake shields and side buffers
Reset the ECU via brake stomp and odometer button
Disconnected the battery for 30 mins
I run 95/98 fuel, the car runs awesome while driving, dont notice any flat spots and it has lots of power. I don't know much about cars so if you could include instructions with your ideas that would be much appreciated.
I’ve tried to give as much information as I can but if you want to know any info please ask. I also have a cheap ODB2 reader so am able to get readings from the ECU if required.
I purchased a 2003 RX8 Type S (6 Speed Manual) about 8 months ago (75,000KM’s), I’ve had 5 mechanics look at it and $7000 later it’s still idling rough.
When it idles it sits between 800-830 with the electronics/aircon off. With lights and rear window defogger on it sits around 820-840 and the vibrations are a lot worse. The vibrations can be felt all over the car, I notice it in both seats and steering wheel but that’s the only part I’m touching.
If I have the car running and open the hood I can see the engine slightly shaking as well as the air intake and airbox. These are constant vibrations but as the idle adjusts you can also feel strong pulses. If I push the RPM to 1000 the vibrations are completely gone and it will be smooth until I let off the gas. If I let the idle drop back to 800 there will be very strong vibrations as the RMP hits 800 then the vibrations will soften and come at a constant rate with intermittent strong pulses.
I have had the following parts replaced in this order:
Full Service and Inspection by Mazda
New Battery
New Spark Plugs
New Air Filter
Full Engine Rebuild
New Starter Motor
New Oil Filter
New Air Filter
New Spark Plugs
Throttle Body Cleaned
New Fan Belts
New Engine Mounts
Post Rebuild Service
New Coils
New Ignition Wires
PCM Flashed to latest JDM version
I have also tried doing the following procedures:
Cleaned the MAF
Cleaned the Eccentric Shaft Sensor
Cleaned Air Intake
Tried Removing Air Intake shields and side buffers
Reset the ECU via brake stomp and odometer button
Disconnected the battery for 30 mins
I run 95/98 fuel, the car runs awesome while driving, dont notice any flat spots and it has lots of power. I don't know much about cars so if you could include instructions with your ideas that would be much appreciated.
I’ve tried to give as much information as I can but if you want to know any info please ask. I also have a cheap ODB2 reader so am able to get readings from the ECU if required.
Recently I replaced the fuel pump on my 06 rx8 and so forth the hesitation and vibration stopped. The car is running pretty good now, the pump is right behind the driver side, under the bottom portion of the back seat, ordered the pump on Amazon, lot cheaper. Good luck.
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