RX8 Starting Issue
11-24-2017, 02:56 PM
#1
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RX8 Starting Issue
Not sure if anyone else has experinced this, and I'm just going to go in full dept.
My 2007 RX8 has been running nice and strong, and it still does at this point.
However, yesterday after starting it the first time, it turned over in 2-4 seconds and started nice like always maybe at 3k then down to 1k rpm. Which is normal..
However, after turning it off an hour later, I came back out to turn the car over and it was taking 6-7 seconds to turn over.. drove it for another 30-40 mins, and it took 6-7 again even after warmed up.
Well the next day, came outside to start it and once again taking 6-8 seconds to start..
Not sure what's going on, but after starting it the car runs perfectly fine again.
Can't take it to Mazda, because it's fully straight piped.
My 2007 RX8 has been running nice and strong, and it still does at this point.
However, yesterday after starting it the first time, it turned over in 2-4 seconds and started nice like always maybe at 3k then down to 1k rpm. Which is normal..
However, after turning it off an hour later, I came back out to turn the car over and it was taking 6-7 seconds to turn over.. drove it for another 30-40 mins, and it took 6-7 again even after warmed up.
Well the next day, came outside to start it and once again taking 6-8 seconds to start..
Not sure what's going on, but after starting it the car runs perfectly fine again.
Can't take it to Mazda, because it's fully straight piped.
11-24-2017, 03:18 PM
#2
That doesn't prevent them from working on the car...
Have you checked the usual suspects: coils, spark plugs, compression?
Starting at 3k is not normal unless it's already the deep of winter where you are. 1.5-1.8 initial peak quickly settling to 1.5 warm-up idle and reducing to 750-800 as the car warms.
Have you checked the usual suspects: coils, spark plugs, compression?
Starting at 3k is not normal unless it's already the deep of winter where you are. 1.5-1.8 initial peak quickly settling to 1.5 warm-up idle and reducing to 750-800 as the car warms.
Last edited by Loki; 11-24-2017 at 03:22 PM.
11-24-2017, 03:24 PM
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That doesn't prevent them from working on the car...
Have you checked the usual suspects: coils, spark plugs, compression?
Starting at 3k is not normal unless it's already the deep of winter where you are. 1.5-1.8 initial peak quickly settling to 1.5 warm-up idle and reducing to 750-800 as the car warms.
Have you checked the usual suspects: coils, spark plugs, compression?
Starting at 3k is not normal unless it's already the deep of winter where you are. 1.5-1.8 initial peak quickly settling to 1.5 warm-up idle and reducing to 750-800 as the car warms.
11-24-2017, 03:29 PM
#4
... is not normal. Check youtube, there are many start videos of healthy and unhealthy cars. 2k is ok. I've had it start at 3k once or twice when it was -40 outside, but that doesn't sound like your case.
But anyway, the real question is what state your ignition and engine compression are in.
But anyway, the real question is what state your ignition and engine compression are in.
11-24-2017, 03:34 PM
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I checked; it's not 3k rpm, maybe at 2.3k. I over exaggerated and after 1-2 mins of warm up its at 900rpm
and unsure of the Ignition Coils, and I'm going to go get my Compression tested shortly.. but as far as I know they havent been replaced for over 50-80k miles.
and unsure of the Ignition Coils, and I'm going to go get my Compression tested shortly.. but as far as I know they havent been replaced for over 50-80k miles.
11-24-2017, 04:01 PM
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... is not normal. Check youtube, there are many start videos of healthy and unhealthy cars. 2k is ok. I've had it start at 3k once or twice when it was -40 outside, but that doesn't sound like your case.
But anyway, the real question is what state your ignition and engine compression are in.
But anyway, the real question is what state your ignition and engine compression are in.
11-24-2017, 08:09 PM
#8
Smoking turbo yay
You will also need spark plugs at this point.
11-26-2017, 02:50 PM
#9
40th anniversary Edition
Top condition of all ignition components is critical to the health and performance of your rotary engine and cat. That means battery, starter, coils, wires, plugs, and fuel pump. Any weak link can kill your engine as well as kill your cat.
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
-Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
-SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
-Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
-SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-26-2017 at 07:51 PM.