maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I took the car back to the shop to address an exhaust rattle after recently having the intermediate pipe replaced due to a leak. They think it's the remaining half of the catalytic converter heat shield causing it (bottom half has previously detached and I removed it). They remove what's left of the heat shield and drive the car to the front for me.

I get in the car and try to put the windows down because it's nice outside - the windows don't work. A closer look at the instrument cluster shows it not lit up.

Something is amiss.

I turn the car off and try turning it back on to see if the weirdness would go away.

Console still doesn't light up and the starter doesn't spin. Lights, locks, and radio all seem to be functioning, though.

Long story short, the immobilizer system was somehow tripped. Fortunately I didn't just take off with the car!

This was near their closing time, so they're gonna work on it in the morning; no idea how this might have happened.

Any ideas? Shy of getting it towed to the dealership, are there ways to reset? The car is equipped with the advanced keyless system, and trying the other key doesn't seem to help. The shop checked fuses, and they seem to be intact. The battery is relatively new and tests good. I've tried lookng up suggestions with paltry results.

Three ECU codes were reported :

U0155 - Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (IPC) control module
U0167 - Lost communication with vehicle immobilizer control module
U02xx (I forget this last one) - Lost communication with ...

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

The shop couldn't figure it out, and said it would need to be looked at by someone else. They didn't exactly offer to help out on that, so I had insurance tow it to the dealership.

I guess this thread is now going to go the way of placing fault once the dealership figures out the nature of the problem.

I suspect the shop is going to put up resistance if I try to go after them. This is one hell of a coincidence to have this happen after just simply removing the upper heat shield.

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to attack this situation? I am hoping that I can just deal with my insurance company with a claim to get it fixed, having the costs covered (they can then go after the shop for any sort of compensation). Is this a sound plan?

Legot

iTrader: (1)

That sucks. Have you removed the glove box and checked that the modules there haven't been unplugged for nefarious reasons? Also check up under your steering column, and the ECU box, just in case.

Just look around at different plugs/wires to make sure they're not trying to screw you with repairs. They may have cut a wire somewhere on purpose. All of those codes are likely an issue with CAN to the instrument cluster or the ignition security.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately no, I have not checked those out. The guy at the shop did a lot of looking around, part of which involved looking up around and under the steering column.

I don't see how the shop would have had any malicious intent here because the work I wanted them to do was solely for the exhaust leak and nothing else (they've already been paid for it).

I just called the shop back to see how they want to deal with this issue, and their response is that they don't see how this could in any way be their fault (of which I reluctantly agree with), and that it is simply coincidental. They started the car after getting it off the lift, and drove it out to me.

The service writer acted confused when I mentioned "the immobilizer tripped", and from the description thinks it is more of a general electrical issue. I asked the dealership to try to identify a root cause for the issue. I let the shop know this and they said to come back with that and we would go from there.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Dealership fixed the problem; a shorted meter fuse. They attempted to locate the short, but could not find it. In their investigation, the short seemed to magically go away as the fuse was no longer going out.

And the exhaust rattle is still there.

I doubt I'll be able to get the shop to compensate, but I still want them to fix the rattle, and am a bit worried of the situation being repeated.