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i started having problems since last week. i ended up removing the rear bumper and clean sensor. After that it started working for 10 mins then it stopped again. Does this mean i need to order new R-END (bumper sensor)?
Coop2003, I just got in from re-installing my rear bumper from cleaning the sensor and I'm having the same issue. what i have figured out is that when you reconnect the battery it will be green. as soon as you trigger the door sensor (the one that tells if the door is open or closed) it goes back to steady red.
The things that have happened and led to this issue is that my car just got back from the autobody shop to replace hood, FR RH fender and bumper after hitting a deer. During this time, the autobody shop disconnected the battery and the car went into security lock down and could not be started (not even with the safe key). car got towed to mazda to reprogram the keys to clear the security lock out. Once i got the car the smart key was working for 2 days until the red KEY stayed illuminated (even when using safe key and with battery out of smart card).
What i have done so far is:
1. Replace Fob Battery (old one was dead anyways)
2. took off passenger door panel as i figured they removed the door to replace fender.. maybe a lose connection - nada still red KEY
3. check drivers door - hey, who knows!! - Nada still red KEY
4. pull off rr bumper and clean and check sensor - nada still red KEY
5. buy OBD reader - if there is low/no current to antennas there should be a DTC - NO CODE....
6. Pull out the rye and coke and start drinking... this has gotten me stumped
Now if the antenna was bad, i should still get an OBD code right? I dont know what to do anymore. and i sure dont want to take it into mazda... they are ridiculous.. way too many bad experiences.
Do i got to a junk yard and get a set on antennas? Antennas shouldn't go bad... just the connections would go (dirty/corroded/broken wires).
Why does my KEY on dash show Green when i reset the car? is it an ECU issue? Why does it get triggered when the Close/open door sensor is triggered. the buttons on the outside of the car work immediately after car is reset (when Green KEY is also showing) but not once door is triggered (revert back to red KEY).
Ive done a lot of reading and any help would be greatly appreciated. sorry for the lengthy post... i just have not seen all of the detail described in any of the SMART Card issue threads and am hoping someone can connect the dots for me.
To add my two cents, the same thing happened to my car a little over a month ago (red "key" light on dash, none of the external buttons work but the buttons on the key fob still work and can still start the car with the smart key).
I took it in to the dealership, and they said that the rear antenna was kaput. It's mounted behind the rear bumper, which means it's a pain to replace (i.e. remove bumper, remove and replace antenna, replace bumper). The part itself seems to be around $200-$300, depending on where you get it from. The dealership wanted $600 to replace it (my RX-8 is out of warranty), so I took a pass. As annoying as it is, $600 seems really steep for a purely convenience item.
@DC7 i am still having issues and actually i decided to work on it some more yesterday. what i have notice in the past month is that i can turn my car on with out the valet key and drive for awhile, sometimes i get the red flashing "KEY" on the dash. I remember seeing a diagram on where the sensors are placed, so what i would do is put my key fob on top of the dash and the "KEY" would turn back green. This tells me that the problem could be on one of the sensors on the front end.
i think i found out my problem; one day i was letting the car idle, i opened the drivers side door and saw that the red "KEY" on the dash came on. so i did my usual (placing key card on top of the dash) but it didn't work. Then i remembered that there was a sensor right behind the ash tray. So i ended up removing the center console and ash tray and place my card near the sensor and i was able to get green light again. I was able to to repeat this a couple more time. So i think my problem is the sensor on behind the ash tray. I was able to find a used one on ebay for $20. Now i gotta wait for it to arrive to see if my findings were correct.
On a side note: i don't know if the OBDII will pick up a low current fault on the sensors, because i have scanned my car as well and didn't pick anything up.
@Coop2003
Sounds like a Low battery in the Smart Key. that or to close to a cellular appliance. Check the voltage of the battery in the key. if its 2.8 or below then this is most likely the issue.
My issue i guess is a bit different. its a solid red KEY on dash. and its on even when i use the safe key.
Also its weird that the OBDII isnt picking up the faults. there's a B code for these sensors.
@dc7 I was able to have your condition simply by removing on of the sensors and got the solid "red KEY" when I used the valet key. I also scanned the car with out throwing any codes and still had the solid red KEY light. So maybe for you is a bad sensor??
The OBD-II reader typically reads the P codes only. The B "Body" codes can only be read by high end professional units.
I have the same problem, and I got my hands on a pro-reader and it came out as B1131. This is the code for the rear bumper antenna that is behind the bumper (not the one inside the trunk. No amount of cleaning could fix it. It simply needs to be replaced to work again.
As to why it goes green for awhile but then goes to red after a battery reset, I have experienced this as well during my own diagnostics. Right when you reconnect batter, everything works the first time. After a shut off, and restart, it will fail again. This is probably the initial check out of the whole smart key system so the security is more lax initial when it's trying out the different antennas on the car to make sure they're all working. once it determines one isn't working, the system locks down, and you can't use any of the buttons outside the car anymore. hwoever you can still use the buttons on the key card and start your car normally. It's just the way it works.
It's common for the rear antenna to go, but before forking out the cash, I'd recommend you get your hands on a pro reader to get the B code. The free reading services by Part source (I'm in canada) are basic models and they can't read it. Most can't, you really need a professional level one to get to the B codes.
I've had the "red key" light for 2 years. External buttons don't work, and the card remote is flakey.
A new (car) battery was my 100% fix. The battery had always been strong enough to easily start the car at any temperature. I didn't have any clue that something was wrong. New battery, and all key functions work again. Green key light. Nice.
Perhaps a weakness in the battery wouldn't let the system initialize properly. After all, the system boots up on battery power before it gets full alternator power.
Last edited by colinshark; 11-08-2015 at 03:54 PM.
I've had the "red key" light for 2 years. External buttons don't work, and the card remote is flakey.
A new (car) battery was my 100% fix. The battery had always been strong enough to easily start the car at any temperature. I didn't have any clue that something was wrong. New battery, and all key functions work again. Green key light. Nice.
Perhaps a weakness in the battery wouldn't let the system initialize properly. After all, the system boots up on battery power before it gets full alternator power.
Ahhhh FFS.
It came back. I'm pretty sure I just reset the code/fault with the battery change, and then it came back. And it must be a "sticky" code, due to its behavior of happening, and then absolutely never working after the fact. Time for a proper diagnosis.
2007 RX-8 GT.
Several days ago I tried using my remote for the first time in a few years after having changed the battery in it a couple months ago. There had been no problems with the car but I just thought I'd check out the remote functions. The remote worked fine, however after using it once the automatic door lock would not work and pressing the buttons on the doorhandles would also not work. And the red KEY indicator was lit up solid on the dashboard. I had to use the remote to unlock and lock the doors otherwise the car started and drove fine. Something I noticed was that the little red light on the remote would blink when I opened the door and blink again when I closed it. I searched these forums and didn't really find any good info except to go to the dealer which I thought I would do next month when I take my car in to get the airbag recall work done. After a few days the problem simply went away all on its own and is still working the way it used to.
So..
Went through a touch-less car wash leaving engine running. Got home and the doors did not lock when I walked away from the car. Used the remote to lock. Next day had to use the remote to unlock instead of the button on outside of door. Started engine and red KEY light was on. Still that way after a few days. So am guessing water got somewhere it shouldn't.
Additionally over the past winter I had a case of Diet Coke explode from being frozen. I took out as many of the frozen bits as I could at the time but of course some remained and would've melted into somewhere. I think some got into the tool bin right at the very back of the trunk. Any tips on what might be the problem? I understand there is an antenna somewhere back there?
I'm having the issue with the red KEY light and I searched but couldn't find the answer to two questions.
1) can I use the antenna intended for another location to replace that one? don't they all do the same thing? eg: buy one for the drivers side door (outside) and put it in place of the rear one, or try the one from inside the trunk, see if it will work in place of the outside sensor.
2) what should the resistance be for the antenna? I tested mine, the leads on their own (closed loop w the tester) read 0.3 and the antenna read 1.0. so, higher yes, but its not like its completely gone. resistance of 0.7.
This is an awesome thread with most information I have found on the internet related to this issue. Needless to say I have the same issue with red light and the call button on doors and trunk non responsive. I have a 07 RX8 GT with the keyless remotes.I have tried to clean the antenna connector for the antenna behind the bumper and has not resolved the problem. I do think I need to go back and clean with contact cleaner (which I plan to do soon). I also have had a annoying battery drain problem since I bought this car in 2010. The stock radio had some pull, so I have replaced with an aftermarket. The drain problem is still an issue. I noticed that the drain issue is resolved if I remove a fuse related to keyless entry (and few other systems). Now I am wondering if there is a short from the antenna through the car body that then causes issues with the antenna working properly. Has anyone tested these two issues together? Has anyone had battery drain problems along with the antenna issues? Thanks!
Re-did cleaning and put everything back. Problem is not resolved but found something more interesting. The car battery reset does make the system work until I open the trunk (with any means) and close the trunk. As soon as i close the trunk, system goes down and red key light is back on with all the same symptoms. This is weird. Anyone have the same issue? I am starting to think it is the antenna under the bumper. However, do want to know if any other antenna (much cheaper) can be used to replace this on. Is there anything different other than the connector that is different between all the antennas?
I ordered replacement part from Mazdaswag. Replaced it today. Everything is back to normal. It was the sensor under the rear bumper. It is clearly a bad part as captured by so many in this thread. $300 fix, but happy that my car is back to normal..
Just throwing this one out there for you Series 1 guys....
There is also a strong possibility that some of the shorting can be the Wiring Loom that goes through the underside of boot lid (sorry Trunk lid).
Over time and use of the Trunk Lid the wiring which goes to the Centre Brake Lamp (in middle of lid) shorts, it can be intermittent and obviously only when you put foot on Brake Pedal.
The Wiring Loom has been modified and strengthened...
So for guys still having this issues after antenna behind Bumper is renewed, have a look at this loom, technically it should not be the issue, but it can produces a ground issue.
It's an easy fix that could take anywhere for 15 to 20 minutes. Although it took me about a week to figure this out. Most of the time it's an issue with the rear antenna because it is located outside of the car. The company that makes the antennas went a little cheap on the plug design. It was crimped and soldered poorly and even though it has rubber seals it still corrodes where the wires connect to the plug so it will look as if nothing is wrong. If your alright with cleaning the plug and re soldering the connection go for it. But if you want a quick fix so that it will never happen again relocate it to the trunk.
Dummy proof directions
After removing internal trunk covers and rear bumper (Rear Bumper not necessary if you buy new antenna from ebay or anywhere any should work I used a spare trunk antenna)
Step 1: Follow the Pink and Brown Wires back inside the trunk. When standing looking in to the trunk they should appear on the left side.
Step 2: Cut the Pink and Brown wires and strip the ends of the wires.
Step 3: Do the same for the antenna. ***Do not cut the wires too close to the antenna make sure you have as much wire as possible sticking out of it***
Step 4:Connect the Pink and White wires together with a wire nut
Step 5:Connect the Brown and Black wires together with a wire nut
Step 5 1/2: If you want you can connect it to a ground. It will still work even if its not.
Step 6: Test to see if it works. (It should work right away if not you may need to pull the 30amp fuse to reset).
Step 7: put everything else back together and you should be good to go. If it didn't fix the problem it is possible that one of the other antennas is bad.
This is how mine looks after I fixed the problem
Just throwing this one out there for you Series 1 guys....
There is also a strong possibility that some of the shorting can be the Wiring Loom that goes through the underside of boot lid (sorry Trunk lid).
Over time and use of the Trunk Lid the wiring which goes to the Centre Brake Lamp (in middle of lid) shorts, it can be intermittent and obviously only when you put foot on Brake Pedal.
The Wiring Loom has been modified and strengthened...
So for guys still having this issues after antenna behind Bumper is renewed, have a look at this loom, technically it should not be the issue, but it can produces a ground issue.
/\ I would check the obvious, as in the globes, sorry not certain without doing some EPC searching/checking, make certain the Brake Globe is OK and you are using the correct type, I guess in S1 it is Dual Filament (one for Park lamp the other for Brake and are staggered pins.
Sorry my S2 has factory LED's for Brake Lamps...
Just make certain the Globe is correct.
Also are you using any LED globes, Anywhere?, watch-out as some brands and style of LED's are defective to use straight out of the box.
On my NC2 MX-5 (Miata) a few days ago I tried installing small LED Licence Plate Globes (easy to do and they worked) but straight away as soon as I put foot on Brake my Dash lights blinked with Radio lights and all that was OFF and I got a buzzing sound under dash.
I returned Licence Plate Lamp globes back to original and everything was back to normal...!!
/\ I would check the obvious, as in the globes, sorry not certain without doing some EPC searching/checking, make certain the Brake Globe is OK and you are using the correct type, I guess in S1 it is Dual Filament (one for Park lamp the other for Brake and are staggered pins.
Sorry my S2 has factory LED's for Brake Lamps...
Just make certain the Globe is correct.
Also are you using any LED globes, Anywhere?, watch-out as some brands and style of LED's are defective to use straight out of the box.
On my NC2 MX-5 (Miata) a few days ago I tried installing small LED Licence Plate Globes (easy to do and they worked) but straight away as soon as I put foot on Brake my Dash lights blinked with Radio lights and all that was OFF and I got a buzzing sound under dash.
I returned Licence Plate Lamp globes back to original and everything was back to normal...!!
So LED's can cause all sorts of issues.
wow man I just swapped all my interior led's for these: BLUE LEDS
I also put two in the the front lights. I guess the aux lights?
Im sorry I wasn't exactly clear before. It isn't the big globe light it is one of the smaller lights in the brake light housing.
Ill check em anyway.
Hello all. I have an 08. I've got the red key light on. I just had my mechanic check codes and the only code was a p1260, but the car still starts fine. I just can't use any of the exterior lock buttons. Battery and alternator also tested fine. I pulled the rear bumper yesterday and cleaned the rear antenna with electric parts cleaner. Made no difference. Any thoughts? If I had a bad antenna would it show some sort of code? Also I have changed the fob Battery twice.
Few other things I noticed tonight,
If I walk away from the car with it running, it beeps at me. So it's still detecting the fobs location I assume? Also the fob will not work, ie lock doors or pop trunk with the car running.
08-01-2014, 06:18 PM
