C0r3

Hi guyz! I have an 04 rx8 and recently had power steering problems again after 3 years. In the past i changed the rack and all was good. Now i have changed literally everything but the problem comes back after a week or so. Always the same. Tougher to turn left, and reeeeeally light on the right. Any ideas?

Reoze

I cleaned the entire harness a good 4-5 times. I was fairly convinced my issue was the torque sensor, or the rack itself. I ended up replacing the harness today and everything seems 100%. I have a slight feeling of u-joint crunchiness, but the power steering itself has been completely smooth.

If all else fails, replace the harness, it's only $60.

Edit: **** me, it came back, worse than ever. Now my Tach is dying along with it. My first instinct was something shorted out. The strange thing is this happened fairly consistently for about 20 minutes straight. While going 50 mph or so I turned my car off, back on, and it was completely fine until I got home. To me, this sounds like a computer issue, any thoughts?

OverweightPoro

I had the whole turn off car blank issue is fixed for a while fiasco go on. I'm still trying to figure out what's up with my power steering in my 04 with my mechanic. Originally we thought it was my wiring harness that was torn to hell from the pervious owner so we replaced that. 1450 later and here we are again.
..-.

Reoze

I got my alternator tested and it passed the autozone test until I turned on the interior lights and high beams. I'm going to replace it monday and see if that fixes it.

If that doesn't work i'm going to cut the connector out of the harness for the torque sensor and solder a wire between it.

After that I'm about ready to replace the damn rack.

rotorbrain

iTrader: (1)

Same thing on mine. I had been driving with a failed EPS for the last few months and decided to dig into it last week by pulling the harness out and soldering all the connectors. Well, less than a week later, it failed again. . . with the same symptoms you experienced. Just before it completely failed, I was sitting still and the wheel started pulling to the right on its own!!! I don't even know what to say about this. . . but, what I would give for a leaky old hydraulic pump right about now!!!

MANIACman

Wow... You make a great argument but who are you talking to? I don't recall saying anywhere anything about stuff that will "never" fail. I think the problem is that things ARE designed to fail. There is a difference. If you didn't know it we live in a throw away society and its a shame. There is a difference between a device that is "built to last" but eventually fails and a device that is designed to be landfill in a specific period of time. There is also a big debate about the "right" to fix your car (or phone or IPAD etc)

Lets take a few that I know about.

You mentioned computers. Computers from more then a few years ago are particularly worthless because people think they need Windows 10 to run on it. Almost nobody asks what is the great improvement about Windows 10 they just know its the "Standard" and everyone has to have it. Assuming you could stand sitting around all day waiting for it to install how useful would a 5 year old design be with Windows 10? Also - Microsoft and practically every smart phone company have a habit of stopping support which = "your device is now open to hackers because the new "improvements" which consists of really **** design are picked up on.

Take that "garbage" computer and run a good linux distro and it will probably act better then it did when it was new and the operating system was still Windoze XP. Try sometime putting XP on a machine and plugging it into the internet. It will be crushed in seconds *I'm not kidding. Just don't ask how I know... When I told someone I did this they laughed. In seconds it will be so screwed up as to be unfixable other then erase the Hard Disk (And maybe have to reflash the bios) and start over.

Connectors that are water proof like the GM ahh... someone help me I can't remember the name. These things may not let you operate your RX8 underwater but they are so much better designed then the connectors in my RX8 and the Chevy Truck I drive. *On the RX8 I replaced some of them with these GM connectors and in my case no more power steering problems. *Also that overflow tube is now long enough to not drain into the cars electronics. That is just flat out stupid or the cost of a plastic piece of hose is a lot more then I thought.

Smart phones drive me crazier then computers. These are designed to last around what? 1.5 years? Something like that. They keep coming out with new versions of Android to fix security issues but they are only available for new phones (Except Nexus) How about this new improved scheme with a battery that you can not remove (Without serious effort and special tools) Did you know that the battery is designed to charge properly 300 to 500 times? Check that out if you think I'm BSing you. Remember those 2 year contracts? Its seems designed to fail at right about the perfect time. If you go back a few years all phones had replaceable batteries and phones seemed to hang around longer. *Assuming your not just buying the "new thing" ala Windows 10 or whatever diabetic version of Android is out. What about the glass screens on smart phones? Everyone just accepts this as a fact of life. They have shown flex displays that are paper thin. What would you bet we don't see that for a long time *If ever.

Cars "rust" Airplanes don't corrode nearly as fast. Not even close and whats the difference? I think its Zinc Chromate? Or some type of Zinc you plate on the metal and the cost difference is pretty minimal. What about those back to the future cars made from stainless steel. Have you seen one lately? They look great and aren't even painted.

Car Computers are something that really concerns me. These are being actively hacked and the "security" of your car and even control of your car eventually is at the whim of some joker. If you want to be totally horrified check out Youtube and watch for a video where most of the car trunks open and the door unlock on the roof of a parking ramp at the same time followed by crooks looting all of them. Or the reporter that brings a brand new car to a hacker kid so they can film him trying to get into it *And in seconds he drives away in it. A brand new car and he didn't even know what car was being driven over for him to hack on. The one that really scares me is one where you have one guy driving while a goon is playing with the cars computer. The driver is screaming "Ok, I can't steer and I have no brakes PLEASE stop it" Wouldn't that improve the chances of you getting a newer car? What are the odds that Mazda (or anyone) would ever have an "update" available for a 10 year old car? Or even a 5 year (or less) car. Will this be another added "rust" that makes a car obsolete? No doubt.

Tires and brakes wear out and no one expects them to last forever. And not something I suggested should. *Plus I know so little about them so I'll shut up on a topic I'm not an expert on.

You brought up window motors. I'm not an expert but I know a little bit about electric motors and they make two specific types for Computer systems. One type sucks and is prone to failure. They are just crap versus the other type. So if a car is designed with really good motors? Great. But how much would you bet that they use the type that seize up more easily? I've had to replace a couple motors for windows. Have you ever seen anything seriously done to keep moisture out of the motor? Maybe they do on higher price cars but the stuff I've had to fix was a huge puzzle how it lasted as long as it did.

Lets forget about all that for a moment and consider a car designed to be easy to work on and that used excellent parts and which were universal between models. Like the wire loom for an RX8 would be the same as the RX7. That changing the plugs didn't require removing the left front tire. That the 4th bolt on the compressor wasn't right up against the steering knuckle. Its all worth it to me because I love this car and I do understand that a sports car has limited space and its not always going to be easy to get at things but what car in the last 20 years (of any type) was? And I'm seriously asking this. Has anyone EVER done this?

God I haven't thought about this car in a long time but I used to own an Opal GT a little budget sports car where you had to remove the engine from the bottom. ie you needed the car way up in the air and you took it out the bottom. What German genius thought that was a good idea?

Its tragic what **** we put up with and I'm not just talking about cars.

And will someone PLEASE tell me WHY aren't bolts and nuts on the RX8 (And every other car) aren't all stainless steel? Honest to God I really want to know. Is it the lack of strength? Maybe I don't know the cost differences but I want to just scream when a bolt is a seized up plug of rust that I need to weld a new nut to get it out. I'm more of an RX8 nut now but I'm also a bit of a jeep freak. They sell "Stainless steel kits" where every nut and bolt is provided so you can pull out the crap bolts and nuts and have a jeep you can wrench on. I don't remember the cost but it was reasonable. I just don't understand...

MANIACman

Cool! That diagram is a saver. Thanks.

Reoze

You realize you're quoting something from a year and a half ago, right?

JTS09

There have been so many posts about power steering problems and very few real solutions. Each problem reported have some common symptoms, but not necessarily the same cause.

My '04 RX8 has been gone for about 6 months. I had PS issues a few years ago. Like many other owners on this forum, I followed the instructions to clean all of the connectors and the problem would go away...for a little while. Usually the PS would work properly for a few weeks (or less). I can't count how many replace I got to place the rack. As an electrical engineer, the problem didn't seem to be mechanical. I finally concentrated on the connectors under the airbox and the connection to the controller (I think that it is located under the ECU?). I posted the steps I used to fix my PS issues. At the time my RX8 was totaled, the PS had worked for about 2 1/2 years without issue. I've included my fix below.

- I cleaned the connector as previously described in this thread

- Before re-connecting the harness, I used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to make a "V" bend on the male prongs of the connector. I made slight bend as far back in the connector as I could easily reach, then another bend in the opposite direction and a final bend to leave a straight section to mate with the female connector.

- After re-installing the hardness, I wrapped the connector with electrical tape to reduce the possibility of water entering the connector.

- I used wire ties to hold the torque sensor connector & power connector securely in place. Since they are next to each other, I used wire ties to hold them together.

One other step that I performed that, at the time, I didn't think had an effect was to clean the connector at the control module.

Good luck.


**Former RX8, RX7 & RX7 Turbo owner - current S2000 owner

Reoze

Well I've now reinstalled my harness again, cleaning each contact meticulously in the process. No dice. I just bought a new EPS and filter module off ebay (EPS module came with it for an extra $40). Though I don't have too high of hopes for this. The price was right so I didn't mind throwing money at it. I can always sell the new/old one.

My symptoms appear as follows. When the car is *cold* the steering will be extremely lumpy turning to the right and left. Quick turns of the wheel will cause it to shutter and begin turning itself. I have only seen the EPS light come on once, and have not seen any outright communication failures since. After the car warms up however, everything seems to fix itself.

I've tested the harness and torque sensor with a multimeter, and everything seems to be fine. Though the issue is so intermittent I'm not too confident in these tests.

If none of these work then I'm already looking at replacing the rack. But before I go down that road, is there anything else that could cause these issues?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Are you sure you battery and/or alternator are up to snuff? Sounds like low system voltage if the tach and other things are going wonky. The EPS has high electrical demand.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Could it simply be the battery terminals?

Reoze

That only happened once, and it was driving home after a radiator replacement from when I snapped the nipple off. Coolant went everywhere. I'm going to chalk that one up to an electrical short caused by a wet connector.

Battery seems good, although I just grabbed a PC925 to throw in the trunk. Alternator seems...eh, I'm not sure. The voltage dips pretty fast sometimes, but never below 12.5 volts. I'm sort of inclined the believe the regulator might be blown, but I've watched my voltage both while the issue was and wasn't happening and have noticed no correlation at all.

Battery terminals have been cleaned and the harness ends were replaced not too long ago.

titaneum_grey

After reading the first two pages of this post I got the jist and looked up F151-67-SH0B. But I keep getting F151-67-SH0D.
Did they upgrade the upgrade of the upgrade?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

With the engine running the alternator voltage to the battery should be over 14V. Only time I ever saw less was running underdrive race pullies @ regular idle/low rpm

I think the latest PS wiring harness is now F151-67-SH0D

Reoze

I have an alternator off a similar mileage vehicle laying around. i guess it couldn't hurt to throw it on later. Planned on having it rebuilt first, but **** it.

MANIACman

If you had coolent pouring into the connectors near the fans I think its does something really bad to the conductivity of these connections. I can't see any way coolent can ruin the actual wires but checking conductivity is a great idea. I know "crimping" pins is the standard for these connectors (All or most) but I think soldering them after crimping is a good idea. The cables are not doing to be flexing around.

Humm... Just one thing I never thought of. Is the problem possibly glycol / Antifreeze forming unwanted connections? Tonight I think I'll ohm out some antifreeze although it could be something really weird like it forming a path with the connectors its goofing up. Like eating the wiring and pooping out unwanted connections.

Reoze

The connectors are weatherproof and water tight. (GM Calls them weatherpack connectors) I believe what happens is the antifrreze is compromising the silicon seals and making the entire connector much more likely to corrode. At least that's the assumption I've been under. The price of the connector is usually dictated by which material they use for the seals. Someone probably got cheap in this department.

Regarding the alternator - Kept a closer eye on my voltages while driving around today. Sits at around 14v while moving. 13.5 stopped. Turning the headlights on causes it to drop to 12.5 and then continue going lower until it hits about 12.1. I guess this thing is in fact completely shot. I'll be replacing it tonight.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

It's the rack, why don't people believe it.

I completely dissembled it and rebuit it, works like brand new, did NOT touch anything else

but it was such a pita ... and u need to pay attention to few things and u do need a SST (or try to fab 1 on ur own) to get it to work again.

Reoze

Oh, I believe it. I'd rather just exhaust all other $50-100 options before taking on that job. Alternator seemed to resolve a few other issues I was having. But not the power steering.

MANIACman

I don't think DW40 is a good thing to spray into the connectors. Are you trying to make them easier to get apart or as a contact cleaner?

Lilshane Allen

I've cleaned all my connections and reset ecu and it still only works whenever it wants to and that is like maybe three times in a month if I'm lucky so quite annoying I'm like a kid in the candy store when I finally have power steering and then I'm scared to turn it off for the sake that if I do it's garunteed that I won't have power steering should I try to replace the harness and if so how do I do so or do I need to cut wires and rewire the new harness plug ins?

Reoze

It was the rack.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Kudos for being honest

Reoze

Kudos to 200 for supplying the rack.

I think I might have some insight on this. For me personally, it's not that I didn't want to believe it. It's that the entire thing seems quite cost prohibitive. The harness and EPS modules are so cheap that it's easy to throw money at them hoping they're the problem. Fortunately, this is only really true if you go through Mazda.

Granted, I got my rack at a great price. You can get remanufactured one's for $350 online. This was also one of the few instances that I ended up paying someone to install it and it came out to $380 with the alignment. Altogether it ended up costing a little over $500 to have it replaced.

Had I known it would've ended up being that cheap, I probably would have opted to replace it months ago. Instead, I never quite got over the initial shock from the quote I got from the dealership and spent every other weekend for the last 6 months trying to figure out what kind of wiring issue I had.