P0442 issue
 

Does anyone have any clue what an EVAP system leak is and what the 2nd EVAP system is? I got code P0442 EVAP system leak detected (small leak) ON 2 EVAP system. My car idles like crap and almost dies more and more frequently.

Something in the thread said 'See DTC P0442' but I have no idea what DTC is either...some help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

DTC= Diagnostic Trouble Codes

The evaporative control (EVAP) system captures any raw fuel evaporating from the fuel storage system (e.g. the fuel tank, the filler neck, and fuel cap). Under precise operating conditions dictated by engine temperature, speed, and load, the EVAP system purges these captured fuel vapors back into the combustion process.
System Overview

The Evaporative Control System is designed to not only capture, store and purge any raw fuel vapors that leak from any areas of the Fuel Storage System but also to run a series of self-tests that confirm or deny the Operational and Vapor Holding ability of the System. This is an important task because at least 20% of the Vehicle produced Air Pollution originates from malfunctioning Vehicle Fuel Storage Systems.

There are many ways for vehicles to 'leak test' the Evaporative System, but most perform the leak test either when the vehicle is sitting, say over night, or shortly after initial start up after the vehicle has been sitting over night. The Evaporative Systems operational performance is also tracked by the Power Train Computer by reading the change in the Oxygen Sensor voltages and Short Term Fuel Trim when ever the stored Vapors are released or 'purged' back into the combustion process. These values should indicate that fuel is being added to the system and that the over all mixture is getting richer. The purging process occurs when the vehicle is under acceleration, which is when most vehicles require additional fuel.

Try checking the gas cap ;)

P0442 is your gas cap crapping on you. buy a new one

but your engine idle has nothing to do with P0442.

gas cap...

check for vacuum leaks for the idle issue....coils/plugs lately?

Did the coil and plugs a while ago, then after a short trip (20 miles) realized I had the plug wire switched L1 with T1. I got the BHR ignition setup and 80% throttle pulls exactly as hard as 100% throttle...is this normal?

I'm thinking its your gas cap.
check/ replace--- this is a known problem

I have this same code. Previous owner has replaced the fuel cap twice. I got a print out from AZ and it lists probably causes. Is this list in order of probable cause, ease of checking or least to highest expense?

The list is:
1. Faulty fuel cap
2. Canister Faulty
3 Purge Valve solenoid faulty
4. Damaged/leaking EVAP hose
5. Faulty EVAP leak detection pump.

I was reading the DTC process someone else posted here and it even sounded like it could be something like the fuel pump not generating enough pressure.

Any ideas where to begin other than a fuel cap?

Hey,bro did you find out whats the exact problem is?please let me know.cuz those are the same exact info i have.

just a couple of months ago i got one ignition coil fixed, it worked fine but now my car wont even start anymore. i got a P0442 code on it. can anyone tell me what it might be please!?

^somebody already did if you'll take the time to read before you post

it has nothing to do with why your car won't start

When it comes to the ignition, it is important to change all four not just one. Have you replaced your spark plugs, how old is your battery, do you still have the original starter, and does your tank have any gas? TeamRX8 is right, your starting problem doesn't have anything to do with the P0442 code. We need more information about your car: year, mileage, AT/MT, additional CEL code(s).

Got this code and just looking for some info, big help knowing where to start are the problems you listed in order of difficulty/expensive I'll start by ordering a fuel cap but mine doesn't look bad. I'm going to look for threads specifically about each issue if I can't find them I will ask for links. Thanks

purge valve is on the upper inside corner of the black-plastic upper intake manifold (UIM) with a small surge tank that it sits on with a vacuum hose to the UIM and the valve control wiring/e-connector, the black plastic lines in the engine bay with the blue quick release connectors are for EVAP and what connect it to the EVAP canister and leak-detect pump up in the rear subframe. The parts in the rear are hard to access without dropping the rear subframe, so best to focus on the stuff in the engine bay first, assuming you’re dead sure it’s not the fuel tank cap. The purge valve itself is just an on-off solenoid valve and if you have some basic electrical skills not too difficult to check and determine if it either leaks or open/closes properly with a vacuum tool.

Not sure if there is a specific DIY thread for it, but the procedure would be the same for the intake solenoid valves, which Jon316G has a good S1 DIY thread and video (link below) on. Then you can check all the blue quick-disconnect connectors in the engine bay to make sure they have all their o-rings and connector pieces in place and are connected properly. Be aware that the lines with red -quick-disconnect connectors are for the fuel line and are likely to be under pressure. Those black plastic lines for the Red fuel and Blue evap lines in the engine start over by the brake master cylinder where they connect to metal lines that run to the back of the car to the fuel pump/tank and evap leak-detect pump/canister respectively.

I might have some of those blue-connector purge valve/evap limes laying around. If you find something sketchy or broken then post up pics here of what might be needed and send me a pm and I’ll look and see if I can find them. If everything checks put in the front then you might otherwise need to go to a stealership with a bag full of cash, because getting to those parts is a big job and they should have the proper tools are testing equipment to diagnose and replace. Don’t skimp or assume anything in the front, just methodically do your best to inspect and test what you can. I’d suspect the problem to be there, but as these cars become older more problems will arise.

You need a proper Mazda service manual for your model year RX8 too. The online stuff is from an early generic service manual and either missing information and even has some incorrect stuff. The real model-specific service manuals are getting hard to find though. I saw a few generic Mazda purge valve test threads online, but not RX8 specific, might be useful though.

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