P0410 - Secondary Air Injection Circuit Fail
 

I'vd had my 2004 RX8 now for a month. The Check engine light came on and with that i lost all horsepower. The car wont rev past 4500 RPM and when it reaches 4500 RPM it starts to spudder. I got the code read at the local ford dealership and got P0410. They said it was the Secondary air injection circuit fail. I now have to take in 3hours away to a mazda dealership. Is this something i can fix myself?? I was told I could clean the sensor myself?? Since I only had a Rotory Engine now for 30 days, I have no clue where it is or what it looks like. Is it safe to drive the car like this or what? Thanks

I've had this error a few times, if I remember correctly it has to do with the secondary valves being stuck open or shut in the intake manifold. Mine stick open giving the car a mean growl but it sounds like yours are stuck closed. I found that unless it's the 5th and 6th port actuators you can clean and free them up by hand. You can find the mechanical actuators on the midsection of the intake manifold, you can work them by hand and free them up sometimes. Otherwise the intake would have to be removed and any gunk cleaned from around them (or if your brave you could remove them).

Air injection pump error....it shouldn't effect the drivability though....it's an emissions thing to warm up the catalytic converter faster on cold starts

No other Codes??

It could be that the pump itself has failed - very easy to fix .
Try starting the car from stone cold with bonnet open . between the ECU cover and the firewall is this little motor that looks like a vacuum cleaner motor (which is essentially what it is). This motor should start up and you will hear a high pitched noise comming from it . It only runs for about 2 minutes while the engine warms up . If you can't hear it running then that motor may need replacing .
All that said Danobre is correct - that fault will not cause your motor to go into limp mode which is what seems to be happening .

I checked out the vaccum on the cold start, its working fine. I got no other error codes comming up, just the one. Guess what i'll try now is to locate and clean the 5th and 6th port actuators. so i guess i'll be looking up just how to do that on the net for the next couple hours. My car never came with a owners manual, so i dont know if it tells me in there. Im going to have to get one somewhere.

I have an 04 with almost same mileage, same year, same symptoms, had the same code.

First off, yes it is your air pump and it will burn a hole in your pocket if you go through the dealer (no emissions warranty coverage >> non essential emissions part).

second, the loss of power is most likely a blocked cat. The air pump only runs to help warm the cat on a cold start. Cat clogs over time.

I almost had to tow mine after only a week after that error code. crawled to the dealership.

THE GOOD NEWS>
* Cat is expensive as hell and tough to get at (labor $$$$) ....and covered until 128k km. warranty covers diag, parts, and labor.
*Air pump is not related to power train. No effect (so far for me anyway) on other parts or horsepower while driving. Some even remove it to reduce weight and lag from belt (usually crazy dudes with turbo etc.) so you can change it when you want.

THE BAD NEWS>
* air pump will likely compromise your cat again in 5-10k km ..or less
*expensive through dealer.
*pain in the ass to find aftermarket.
* sounds like hell when you start the car.

anyway good luck. ps if your new to rotarys check out the n00b stuff on this forum>> also , there is tons of stuff on here & youtube to teach you about your engine and how to fix it. Remember the dealer is a business, they do not "fix" things. They only diagnose and replace. partly cause they don't know how, partly cause they actually aren't allowed to (mazda to dealer rules and regulations) and partly cause they make more money that way.

all my pump did is go out and thats y it pop that code I have to have it or no tag for me I have found it on car-parts.com for 60.00 bucks so its on the way now let youy know an update soon

I have the P0410 at the moment but the pump sounds like its working, ie I can hear it working, pull the connector and it stops. Following the "Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Inspection", I am trying to figure out what the Air Pump Relay sound is. Any ideas?

My car is doing the samething when it reached 4500rpm. Any ideas of what the fix was?

I have just had a car in the garage with the exact same symptoms.... P0410, sluggish and revs limited to 5000 rpm. having replace plugs, leads and coils to cure the misfire I dropped the cat off t6he car to find it full of bits of what used to be catalyst. I smashed out the remaining blocked pieces and refitted the empty cat for the purposes of diagnosis. The car now runs and drives superbly Thanks in part to this thread.

Cheers guys.

Hi hopefully u guys can help me. i bought a 04 rx8 it has 94k miles the engine was bad which i knew when i bought it. the cooling seals went bad. i bought a re manufactured engine, coils, and plugs from Mazda. i installed them and the car started right up. this is my first rotary. on the first test drive i got a check engine light. the code reader reads P0410 secondary air injection system problem and P0302 rotor 2 misfire and P0300 random misfire. i bought NGK wires installed them still have the same codes after i cleared the codes. the air pump turns on for about a minute when i start the car cold. the car also doesn't seem to do well after 6k rpm under load but in neutral not problem. can someone give me advice?

Did you reset the ESS when you replaced the engine?....Sometimes the reset doesn't work correctly...so do it a couple of times :)

Check the electrical connection on the air pump solenoid...

and make sure you have the wires hooked up correctly on the engine harness

Being that you had 94k on the original engine, when you change it did you check the cat out? like whitworthmike said about his in post#10. Might take a look.

@ Dan. No, How do you reset the ESS? What is the ESS?

@ ZOOm I DO. no i did not check the cat, which was not smart especially since the car was leaking water into the rotor cavity. I am suspicious of the cat i am going to check it.

P0410 problem
 

hey guys i need some advice on this code i been reading all your comments on this but i still have some questions.
I have a 05 rx8 shinka the code is on (po410) i check and replace the solenoid for the pump, check the pump, pull it out and is working fine. i have receted the two computers every time i test drive but the code always comes back. i am not experiencing no problems with the car i notice that some people mention problems at 4500 rvs this is not my case, currently i am cleaning the gas system. any other advice ? i live in california and i need to pass emissions.
car has 61xxx miles :dunno:

I am having the same issue with my 04 Mazda rx8 I have po2259 secondary air injection circuit low voltage and its caused my car to go into limp mode I have had this code six months and it just started problems any clues to how to fix this problem

Check the MOP...the air pump fault shouldn't cause limp mode

The map? I thought that might have been the problem. At first I was disconnecting and reconnecting to get the car to. Run but it stopped working I even went so far as to buy the cleaner for it seem to have made it worse

Hey guys,

I hope you don't mind if I resurrect this thread. I am dealing with a P0410 CEL as well.
The car seems to be running fine.
I have cleared the CEL, but a few days later it pops back up..

After reading this thread, I started it up cold this morning, with the hood open. The Air pump comes on, but only runs for maybe 20-30 seconds.. It certainly shut off long before the car was warmed up.
The pump doesnt sound particularly loud.. pretty much just sounds like it always did.

I'm wondering if the problem lies elsewhere? Could it be the relay?


EDIT: I should also mention that a few days ago I got a P0171. I cleaned the MAF and cleared the code. a couple days later the P0410 popped up...

Mine runs about the same length of time it is ok. Make sure all the vacuum connections are connected if everything is connected then try the following. Gently wiggle loose all the vacuum lines for the air pump system and then reconnect. When the car is completely I've cold lift the hood and start it up. While the air pump is running disconnect the line at the vacuum controlled switch that allows the air from the pump to enter the exhaust manifold if you ave vacuum then the relay and solenoid are good and check for airflow between the pump and the vacuum switch at the U shaped Jose

If you don't have vacuum at the switch then Follow the line back to the solenoid and check vacuum is going to and from the solenoid. Make sure all your checks are done while the air pump is running only then the system is on will there be vacuum.

Thanks very much for taking the time to walk me thru some of these checks.

I have confirmed that the Air Pump is working, and pushing plenty of air.
There is no vacuum on the hose I disconnected from the Air Control Valve while the air pump is running.
Im guessing maybe I need to check that solenoid. I have never done that before, but it looks like I need to tear some black plastic thing-a-ma-bob out to get at it.
Yeah, im kinda new to the 'fix your own car' thing, so I dont know what the black plastic thing is called. :)
I'll let you know what I find after I tear into that.

Thanks!

I'm out of town so I can't really look at mine to get a good look at it again. The problem I had was one of my vacuum lines was not connected. It was the primary house the the one way check valve make sure it's connected it is located on the drivers side of the engine on the bottom side of the plastic intake just behind the throttle body. It is very important to have this connected or you will ruin your Catalytic converter which if you love in CA costs 1400 dollars.

I did what you suggested, and followed the vacuum line back to the solenoid.
I took the upper intake manifold off, and about halfway thru the process, I noticed that the little vacuum hose connected to the box the solenoids are plugged into was disconnected.
I didnt know if I knocked it off while working on the intake manifold, or if it was off before, so I continued taking the manifold off to get at the solenoid.

I removed the solenoid, cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner, and tested to ensure it worked (applied 12v to the solenoid, heard it click open and was then able to blow air thru it).

I put everything back together and started it up.
Now I have vacuum on the hose connected to the air control valve.
Im not 100% sure if the fix was cleaning the connections, or if that hose had somehow been disconnected, but I think the problem is now solved.
Assuming the CEL doesnt pop back up in a couple days.
Thanks very much for your help. It's much appreciated!

Your very welcome.