OK - Now what???? - any good problem solvers? (Misfires with TPS code)
 

Hi guys,

So below is a detailed but to the point history of were I am at the moment. Basically im stuck and need someone with little more expereince than me to chime in and give me a clue:

1. CEL = P0120 - Throttle position sensor problem (with P2096 stored)
2. Investigated on net and decided to take to mazde.
3. Went to car to take to dealer, no CEL
4. CEL remained off for a while now (Mazda said if gone off, was probably one off problem and correctted itself)
5. A Noise started to grow in engine ( a growl, mainly when lifting off accelaeration/'over run')
6. CEL remained off
7. Power loss experienced between 5.5 - 7 k - would go all the way up to 9k but just no power
8. Noise continued to grow, consulted forum and leading me to sticky SSV/ clogged CAT?
9. Declogged CAT completely (first 1/3 had collapsed)
10. No resolution though
11. Then noticed when cool, noise is not bad and power is there all way up.
12. When warm noise is BAD
13. Sometimes now power is there/ power is not there.(@5.5 -7k)
14. Long drives she will cruise fine at 90mph in 6th
15. Long drive to airport last week, managed OK but rough engine noise.
16. Left her a week.
17. Not bad after a week being left, obviously very 'cold' but ocne warm problems returned.
18. Grocey run today and CEL came back on.
19. After 1 mile (on highway so could not stop) got to traffic lights and at idle, Flashing CEL
20. Flashing CEL always leads me to coils, leads and plugs.
21. Traffic lights were 100 yards from grocery car park so very gently pulled her in (with everyone behind me honking like crazy)
22. CEL went solid again
23. Let her cool and took her to mazda again and on way to garage
24. Power is back,
25. engine noise is loud (grumble/clickyknocking from left hand side of engine bay)

I know Flashing CEL is 99% coils, leads and plugs. All of these and oil and filters were changed >2.0Kmiles ago (Could still be a bad coil i guess though)

The noise / power loss leads me to sticky/bad SSV as power is there low down - doesnt explain why when cold, it is better though. (heat causes expension, what could be expanded to cause lower power and this noise)

Throttle position sensor code came with P2096 stored (not sure what that is)

Only other thing can say is MPG has been up and down. Seemed to get very good MPG on long run to airport, (when problems seemed at worst( but more normal MPG when problems seemed better)

No techy available anywere today and my freinds scanning tool to pull codes is not available (he is away)

I am flumoxed guys

At this point I want her repaired to a state that i can trade her in for somthing more reliable.

Thoughts, ideas and such very much welcome.

Best regards and kind thanks to all that reply.

Flashing CEL is misfire. You are correct that ignition parts are most common, but not 99%. Plenty of other things can cause a misfire, including bad electrical grounds, vacuum leaks, O2 sensor failure, MAF fouled, ESS fouled, ESS profile needs to be reset, engine compression failing, etc...

See my signature for a link on resolving misfires.

Is any of what you have listed above likely to be related to any of my syptoms?

as soon as I have some resultion, BMW x5 I think, least i can get me snowboard in the back then. LOL

Best regards and kind thanks.

do the pedal stomp reset, new plugs/coils/wires/check ALL the grounds/all vacuum lines, check to set if the ssv does self test.
Good starting point.

Thanks for your input

Any ideas on the noise i describe.

Does this noise I describe predicated to SSV? I am gearing up to remove it this coming next weekend

I am going to drive to girl friends now and will report back any futher developments
after 20 stomp break clear.

Cleaned MAF and IAT also.
I will record what i can on my phone and post the noise etc on here.
CEL is still on also.

Vacuum Lines?? - Work with vacuum alot at work but unfamiliar on the car some initial pointers / starting would be good at this point

OK - Now what???? - any good problem solvers? (Misfires with TPS code) - video update
 

OK guys so update info for you.

Drive up to my girls and folling info have gathered:

Noise is always there but when cool is not as bad as when hot,
Under light throttle (5 to 20%) you can hear the noise
Under harder throttle, is seems to go away, but when lift off you hear the 'spool down' of whatever it is
When first got on high way she seemed to have power there, so I took her all way up in 2nd and 3rd, went all way and delivwered the power I am used to.
After that I cruised.
She is well warmed up by now and lack of power, symtops return
Now have a 'flutter' sound from the top side of engine bay (TB area)

Recorded 2 videos, first is me when she is cool.
Second is my girlfriend sending throttle to about 4Krpm using roughlt 30% throttle

The sound is definatly from the left hand side of the engine bay, in the 'SSV area' along with the 'flutter' coming from the black plastic from TB (as described above)

In both vids you can hear sound good.
I am now thinking throttle body and SSV are gunked up / jammed / sticky at points

I am right in thinking these would cause my issues of:

Intermittenent power loss 5.5 - 7K rpm
the noise (see video)
potentially, throttle sesnor position switch code P0120
Probably miss fire (though not confirmed yet)

Also while I know she has no CAT at the moment (bashed it all out) it absolutyl humms of pertrol from exhaust.

Video 1:


Video 2:



thanks guys

you have a intake leak somewhere---thats the noise I hear. intake after the throttle body.
Possible vacuum hose is off somewhere. Checks the nipples on the lower intake.f

The rattle clicking type thing??

I will overhaul the throttle body and such any way this weekend.

How would I go about finding leak, just hunt for it by noise and searching?

Thanks for your input man

Sticky SSV + rumble in the jungle - Video
 

Any one want to hazard guess at why when warm the noise gets worse and loud,
when cold power is there and goes all the way up.

'Clicky' sound in video is from SSV behing TB area.

Thanks guys

OK so I guess I will use this to track my work and hopefully it wil help someone else -

Had it in the shop for front tyres doing today and asked the techy there - not a mazda guy but mechanic non the less.

Hunting around while it was idling and tickling throttle to hear this noise we came to the conclusion thuslywise:

1. Leak somwere for sure
Leak is definatly post TB and in SSV area, so could be vacuum leak but also we noticed that there is somthing from the exhaust. Looking underneath on a visual inspection couldnt feel anything blowing but couldnt get acces to every part. We are thinking manifold is cracked, or leaking through gasket. The latter being the first thing to investigate because as she warms up it gets worse and you can feel the vibration through the gear stick at idle. When you give hard throttle the noise goes ( based on increaed flow and pressure through exhaust, and therefore reduced leak) but when lift off on over run or clutch in to change, there is no more flow / pressure so it 'blows' through the opening in the gasket / manifold.

I will keep searchin but wont be able to get hands on it untill Friuday at the earliset. I will work entire intake system and the whole exhaust and report back.

Again any thoughts are welcome.

Olddragger - can you elaborate a bit. I have just spent a few hours crawling over engine bay looking for somthing that has com off, feeling for leaks all around intake, from TB up to black plastic intake at top, down to SSV couldnt see anything, feel anything?

Checked manifold from block backwards.

Looked at everything I could.

Only thing I noticed behind the alternator there was somthing that seemed like a gasket but I couldnt figure out what it was for

Spray some starter fluid on the manifold behind the alternator and see if you hear the hiss go away or the engine speed up.

Short bursts and avoid the exhaust manifold.

That will help you pinpoint the vac leak.or at least confirm if you have one. It sounds like one to me also.

thanks for your input man, i will ivestigate futher.

Im guess the stater fluid behing the alternatore were I saw possibly a gasket, would enter to the engine and cause it to speed up (more fuel basically) or go away as it gets blocked?

Would I not see loads oil and like just no power if there was a gap between joints or somthing on the actual rotor block?

Thanks again, I have had several people say its a vac leak but I just cant find it.

Whats your thoughts on the 'clicking' sound, - seems to be time with engine firing there fore I thought a 'hole'

It has a low speed hiss that sounds like a leak. If you see oil it is probably from the oil filler neck. I had a good leak from a cut injector o-ring.

When you rev It. The sound is just like mine sounded with the Upper intake manifold removed.

See what yout think so this video: when being revved.

What do you suggest next??

Thanks so much for oyur help


Thanks again