No pressure in clutch pedal
 

Ok so I searched for a while and can't find anything that will help. I replaced my clutch and pressure plate and slave cylinder but when I bleed the slave cylinder the clutch pedal sticks until you pump it a few times then it will come up but when u depress the pedal there's very little resistance. I bled it for more than an hour with my friend and even used a vacuum to suck out bubbles and still nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated I need my car on the road it's been out of commission for almost a week now and I need it for my hour commute to work.

Please help!!!

Sounds like you have a leak...or air...or something wrong with the way the slave plunger is actuated. You sure you have bled it properly? That would be my first guess.

Do you have a fluid leak?

Check the plunger on both the bracket at the pedal and the slave cylinder...

I don't think there's a leak because the fluid level doesn't change unless I bleed it

Bump for a similar issue. Ever figure this out?

I replaced the clutch and pressure plate, but not slave cylinder, and installed pedal reinforcement bracket. Did bleeding procedure several times. Every time, after re-tightening the slave bleed screw, I need to pull the pedal back up by hand and pump a few times to get pressure back. Pressure then holds, but disengagement is low. Any thoughts?

You have air in the clutch hydraulics. It is a bitch to bleed. Easiest way is a pressure bleeder...othereise you will have a really difficult time to get it all out manually

A quick update for anyone else with this problem.

I tried bleeding with a Mighty Vac and didn't fare too well - I can never get those fittings to seal well enough. Then I tried the conventional approach a few (dozen) more times, and got a decent amount fluid out each time with no bubbles, but no change in end result. So I gave this some thought and I think I figured out what's going on:

Clutch pedal goes down. MC piston goes in. SC piston goes out, compressing pressure plate springs.
Open bleeder valve. Pressure equalizes, pressure plate pushes SC piston back in. MC piston stays out. Close bleeder valve.
Release clutch pedal and lift by hand. Internal MC spring doesn't have enough force to push MC piston back out and draw in new fluid. Pedal is limp since push rod travels through MC without contacting piston.
Pumping the pedal incrementally releases the sticky MC piston until the MC refills with fluid.

I'm fairly certain this is what's going on because the pedal will be completely soft until I hit a certain point in its travel, then normal (full) resistance. And I don't need to pump with resistance - just get the pedal to that point in its travel and knock the piston. Once the pressure plate starts pushing back, the pedal rises quickly. Anyway, I adjusted the pedal freeplay per the FSM, and everything seems fine now.

bump I have the same issue. what yr is your car and are you still using organic clutch lines that came with the car? usually with all the heat that is generator from engine the line tend to bulge. the same thing happens to my brake lines when I drive and have to brake alot except it feels spongy instead of the brake pedal not returning. I'm going to upgrade to all steel braided lines when I get a chance.

pull the pedal up and gravity bleed it. if the pedal is all the way in the down position the port is closed and no fluid can be pulled through the master.