New battery causes problems???
 

Ok so my battery was dying all the time on cold nights, and
also smelled like rotten eggs :puke: .
So I went to autozone and picked up a duralast.
Seemed great at first, but now the car starts but wont stay on
unless right after I turn it on I rev it.

Through out the drive the rpm's drop really low ( about the first line).
But so far hasnt died after getting it going.
My car has new coils and plugs. Never had this issue
before, so I am really confused as what it could be.

Any input is very much appreciated.. thank you

Give us some history on your car. What kind of driving did it get, reg or prem gas, short trips to work mostly city or freeway, was it driven hard or never red lined, oil change interval, 5X20wt oil or what, pre-mix used, oil consumption, just anything you can tell us....THANKS

Piling on to Old Rotor's questions....

If a battery smells of sulphur (sulfur for your 'Mericans), then my first thought is that it is OVERCHARGING.

Did you have your alternator tested?


Note also that the car will have to go through several drive cycles to re-learn sensor profiles - idle may be affected.

I would check the alternator

Does the exhaust smell of rotten eggs or the battery area? Exhaust could be cat convert., engine battery area is an overcharging alternator boiling the battery acid.
Keep us informed on what you find.

The engine bay was what smelled like rotten eggs.
And i had a few people pin point where they thought it was
coming from and everyone agreed it was the battery.

Car info...
2004 SS
41000miles
Dialy driver... Avg.1000+miles a month
half highway half city
redline a few times a day.
Always use 91 octane gas.
Oil change ever3k (5w-30)RoyalP.
just recently had clutch replaced because a
burnt out clutch.....

thats pretty much it.
my guess would be the alternator as well.
But i d not get, why it didnt happen with my old battery?
I have not gotten the alternator tested either.
Is the alternator under warranty?So i can have the dealership
take a look at it tom.
thanks

tighten up on the battery terminals

I actually broke the positive terminal, and had to replace
it. The new one -had to hammer it on :lol2: so tight fit.

Could check your intake and MAF... i just had this problem after I reset my fuel trims where the computer couldn't adjust my idle properly because my intake was gummed up...

car slowly went back to normal today..... so I dunno what
was up with it. Just glad its good again. Only had a hesitation
while trying to start it.
thanks everyone for the input

Sounds like it was the ECU re-set.

Be carefule when hammering that cable on.... it is easy to break the post inside the battery.

Not good; you shouldn't be hammering on a battery. Double-check for cracks and/or leaks. You may also have created an internal short.

Next time you have a connector that won't go on use a terminal brush to clean both surfaces. Open the clamp bolt and use a screwdriver to open the gap -- while off of the battery. Don't apply excessive force to the battery posts. If it still won't go on then sand the posts slightly or ream the connector (if possible) until it fits. Or if it's a gross mismatch you may need different connectors.

I see... I will check it out today
see if I caused any damage.
thanks

Mine does this as well, after I disconnect the battery. Seems that it takes several drive cycles to reset itself. Dealer says it's normal, I say it's a pain in the ass. Every time I come to a stop sign the car dies, then one day it sudenly fixes itself. I think the MAF is the culprit, so I have one on order from Mazdatrix. We'll see if that helps.

I dont know what Im saying but when I changed my stock MAZDA battery to Duralast all was fine, it didnt have to reset or nothing.... and when I changed from Duralast to Optima Yellow All was fine and SUPER SUPER BETTER (especially having aftermarket stereo+sub+amp), so I dunno ur car is wierd...

When you put in a new battery in modern cars, you car will go through a relearning process. Don't ask why because I can't give you a definite answer, I just know it does it. You car will idle like crap until it goes through some of it's drive cycles. It's nothing to be concerned with

^yeah and through my 3 batteries my car has not gone into this idling u speak of...

When you reset the battery the car has to relearn how to idle properly, especially if you have any intake mods. Do the 20-stomp brake reset. When you hook up the battery again, let the car idle at full load (ac on max, fan on full blast, rear defrost, etc.) for 10 minutes while keeping it from dying, then another 10 minutes without load. Then give it a couple of drive cycles to relearn itself and you should be good.

I would first check the Alternator at Autozone for free, Duralast batteries are weak... best option would be a ADELCO or Yellow Top Optima.... you'll defenitely get your moneys worth it.

it's best with a lifetime warranty from Autozone on the alternator and battery, if it goes wrong , I simply get a new one ( no hazzle ) ...