My mazda still cuts out badly...
 

Well, I can give it about 3/4 throttle and it has to be below 4k rpms...anything past that will spit and sputter horribly and I have a huge lose of power, If I keep it too the floor the power will kick it every other second...go go go go sputters go go half power go go sputter sputter go go shift sputter go go...

All new ignition...ran fuel injector cleaner through it, didnt help 1 bit. New air filter thinking maybe my air is getting sufficated from a non changed air filter, didnt do anything...

Can carbon build up have anything at all to do with huge misfires?

Also, the CEL blinks for about 30secs im guessing indicated misfire...but...idk.

Actually in other words, its feels like only 1 rotor is firing more than half the time. It will kick in very rarely and I have full power again for a sec. then it will misfire horribly...and this will happen if its too the floor for 1k rpms to 9k...1st gear just feels like complete power lose and the other gears will spit and sputter and miss really bad as i try to WOT it.

And when I say misfire, it will bog the car down and all power is gone completely. Fuel cut and all.


*I take good care of it too* 93 octane all day everyday as well.

Have you had a compression check done?

yes its clearly mis fire. when did you change the coils? have you double checked all the the wires are pushed on all the way? have you tried doing the 20 brake stomp reset?

I changed the plugs and coils at the same time after I swapped my factory exhaust back on. It was doing this with the billy boat exhaust on it as well. Now its just worse.

I double checked, plugs are in the right places along with correct torque, plug wires are racing beats and I've only had them maybe 8k miles tops, there also in the right places and fully snug to my plugs. Everything seems to check out great.

I haven't tried the 20 stomp reset yet. Although I did reset the ecu by letting the negative pole sit over night then I drove it around to reset it.

I've never had a compression check done but power is good when it comes on, I've done an ear check and all faces seem even and hit hard (with the plugs out)

leaving the battery undone will not reset the eshaft profile. only the 20 stomp will.

This statement alone makes your earnestness suspect.

what's the 20 stomp reset?

Okay i'm back, the 20 stomp reset didn't help. I crossed my fingers but that didn't seem to help either.

I even wondered if the crank angle could jump timing..hmm

Could the fuel pump have anything to do with it? It idles fine, I can rev it fine not under a load.

Your choices are ignition fuel...or electronics really.

I would start by swapping in known good coils and wires and plugs..and making sure the coil wiring is correct if you don't have access to a scope, since ignition is the more likely problem. Check the ESS as well..there can be crap stuck to them ( they are magnetic) that will screw with them

If that doesn't work..move on to the injection system...what is your AFR when this is happenning? Do you have any codes?

DIAGNOSIS is a systematic way to logically check all components that are/can be involved

KISS is a good thing to remember....always assume that if something starts immediately after making a change to a system that your change was the problem :)

Don't assume that it is a coinciidence...it rarely is :)

Whats ESS mean, can't find it in search. My ignition is fine. So its bound to be my fuel then. Anyone have suggestions?

https://www.rx8club.com/search.php?searchid=6845629

Almost every result of that simple search (with the exception of the thing about the Tesla and the reference to your own post) lead to an explanation of the ESS and the reset procedure.

Throw a fuel pressure adapter in there and go for a drive...low pressure and you will see it :)

Usually ignition is a sharp cut out...and fuel CAN be softer......

You seem sure of your self...so good luck figuring it out .............

I see, and yes, very sure of my ignition..

I feel it might be a sticking injector..

Sounds like your fuel pump is dying...
Monitor fuel pressure
Monitor AFR

See, in the back of my mind, I have always felt it might be might pump wanting to die...but I didn't know that fuel pumps weakin over time, I figured if they go bad, then they go out.

I've only had 1 experience with a fuel pump on a 99 eclipse going bad, it ran fine, then it wouldnt crank the next time I went to go start it. Turned out being the fuel pump (obvious because you couldnt hear it whining anymore when turning the key to on)

I use to run it with my full exhaust on the by-pass everyday to and from work hitting 145+ I would hold that speed for awhile...im sure that was stressing the pump, making it work too hard for too long...Also, I've had my fuel down below E more than once...It might just be the pump...I'll look more into that.

Just an update, drove home from work today, 1st gear lacked power untill higher rpm range but it kicked it, shifted into 2ed with no delay, Usually it cuts out by then. had all my power to redline...I'm almost at E, and it was around 37 degrees, im assuming all the injector cleaner is about ran through it. I hope maybe its clearing up some.

I'll keep updating with news when something else happends.

I'm by no mean a Rx-8 expert (if anything I'm a noob) but I have had this problem with my FC, and it might help ya.

When my FC shown these issues, it was one of my secondaries (Injectors) had a loose connection, the plug was basically just sitting on the injector. Plugged it in and the car ran great afterwords.

If this is totally not related to the Rx-8, I'm sorry and just ignore my post. I have very little experience with the Rx-8 (about 2 weeks worth and growing) but I have own 3 FC's over the course of 5 years and learned a lot from them.

Hope this Helps
-Shawn

I did not see if you did it, but check the MAF and clean it. Either something is wrong, or something is confused. Is a cheap easy check, then 20 press it after that. The initial 20 press should have reset everything, and ECU should have figured it all out, but maybe it cannot with the dirty MAF. This is like a 1 in 10 shot, but it is cheap, and cannot hurt.

Another thought, did you pull any of the ground cables when you did the work? ECU gets PISSED if grounds are not happy.

Grounds are good, and I havnt gotten around to clean the MAF yet but I have been thinking about that as being the issue, I'm going to do that, then if it dosnt clear up ill run by autozone and get the cels checked real fast and locate wheres its coming from.

Well if you have an 04 with the original engine then you most likely have what most of the early RX8's have.....and that is low compression. You need a new engine. I have had the same problems and did everything you have done and nothing helped. The only thing I think you can do is use the Mazda engine cleaner and see if that helps. Also one of my problems was that I had a shift light that was spliced into my coil #1 that was coming lose making it misfire. Get a compression check when you get a chance. Hope all this helps.

Definatly, I'll look into everything. Its just hard making time right now. The nearest dealer is 80 miles away, and I'm pretty sure their crooks too.

I've thought about seafoaming it to see if that helped also, but we'll see. I'm under warrenty still so im not worried if I have to fight for a new motor if that is the case. 5W30 synthetic or not.

It just dawned on me, I havn't cleaned my MAF yet but, the same issue happend to me with my rx7, the TPS looked snug but when I firmly pressed it in, the car ran fine. Hesitation under acceleration is hinting off to me that the TPS might be loose or not making contact due to being dirty. I'll look into both the MAF and the TPS sunday and let you guys know how it goes.

The RX-8 doesn't have a traditional TPS.

I am having this issue, what was the resolution? I've done ignition components, cleaned maf, and about to replace fuel pump with a new drop in unit.