In a normal functioning system, the spark is actually part of the electrical connection between the coils and the battery, so if the timing light flashes, it has sparked.

The only way the timing light would flash and there NOT be a spark is if for some reason the current the plug wires is seeing is getting grounded out somewhere before the plug electrode.

Fraying wires letting it arc to the engine block or a cracked plug allowing the same thing within the plug hole are the only reasonable possibilities there. Both are easily checked for, so if you have ruled those out, then yes, timing light flash = spark.

Figured, thanks for the clarification. The one wire does seem a tad loose, but as I said they are all blinking fairly consistently on the timing light, so that (unfortunately) rules out that idea. The knocking is quite bad the lower the rpms get. When it dies out, it is an obvious loud knocking. Otherwise, the car revs up fine and drives not too bad. I fear it may be new engine time new car time (....... maybe)

Sounds like the SSV rattling. Better hook up a compression tester instead.

I was actually thinking that, Team. With previous issues I've been having I'm leaning more towards compression, though. I'm uploading a video to YouTube and will link it here. Interesting noises which I just assumed was linked to low compression / wire not seated properly

I had this same issue yesterday. Mazda dealer told me it was going to be $96 to run test. But after doing some reading I just tried a simple route and put in water removal treatment in.. Thinking it might just be that simple of having water in my fuel. Went out today. Started right up. Took it for a drive. No issues. Run like a champ. STP Water Removal. $1.99 .. I'll keep an eye on it and let you know how it worked out.

^ It was unlikely to be water in your fuel. There are many other problems that can cause stalling at idle that ARE common, especially to owners that haven't been around the forums much, and water in the fuel isn't one of them. I'm not saything that it couldn't have been water in the fuel, but you are ignoring many other common problems in favor of one that is virtually unheard of.

Mine starts up fine, the idle stabilizes, and it will rev up great and has great power but when I go drive it after I lift off the throttle it dies. I have checked all the above possible fixes and all are fine but it still has the issue.

Also, there are no stored codes and no warning lights/DTCs.

I am having the same issue, I just changed the battery; before the batt change I had Zero issues... I think it is fuel trims, but I drove a 50 mile or more trip and still have problems.

Shuts off at higher RPM? or shuts off when it returns to idle?

I think you actually have to turn the engine off ,let it cool, then restart a couple of times before the trims will kick in .

I found the problem with my 06 RX. I had a hole in my stock intake tube (the rubber part, used a rag and duct tape to hold me over till I can source a part.)

I changed batteries and must have had a crazy fuel trim established when the hole started, lost that trim on the batt change, and the virgin trims couldn't overcome the additional air, I was running too lean.

All is better now (for the short term).

Hello everyone my name is Hafeez and i'm driving a 2009 RX8 R3. recently there was a leak in my coolant tank so had to change a new one, since i'v changed the new one my car started to over heat and the coolant sensors were always on, then the mechanic switched the previous sensor with the old sensor, but my car now stops every time i stop revving the engine every red light. it basically only drives normal for 5 min. Plz help me identify the problem

Sounds like you damaged the engine by letting it overheat.

Brettus, is it possible that my computer is having a hissy fit from me having changed so many parameters from stock and is re calibrating still after the crank clear/ re learn? I'll give it a few more drive cycles since it gets more stable every time I test it.

I've been having basically the identical issues as 90% of the other commenters in this forum. My engine took a shit before I shipped off to basic. A week ago, I finally swapped another engine into it. The engine has 50k on it, out of a 2005, 6 speed. I've put about 600 miles on it since I swapped it in, and it runs flawless on the highway. Plenty of power, no lag, etc etc. But of course it doesn't idle. I've been doing research on research about this issue. I've tried virtually everything to fix this issue including cleaning the MAF, throttle body, new plugs, wires, coils, fuel stabilizer, checked vacuum lines, wires, etc. I've reset my ECU, and between the two times I've done that, it would idle for as long as I wanted. It would be a little rough at first, then would smooth out and idle smooth, even with AC running. Although after driving it around for a little, it goes right back to a shitass idle, and dies. I'm running out of ideas on this. If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I'm to the point of just swapping my old intake manifold on to see if maybe there's something jacked up internally on the "new" one. Any intel would be much appreciated!

i have 08 20k miles rx8. the problem started after i filled up my fuel. My tank was about 1/4 when i filled it up. after that i drove it for 5 mins and i came to a stop light. It idled for about 10 sec then suddenly died on me. That is the only time it happened. it started right back up after that. im thinking i could be a dirty fuel system that caused it but any insight is appreciated. ill be checking out my fuel filter on the weekend to see if its dirty.

Mine doesn't stall but it when its in drive and I'm sitting at a lie or put my car in reverse it goes under 1k rpm and shakes violently. Driving doesn't seem that bad though.

I just had a similar problem that I just fixed last week on my 8. I would check the wire leading to your fuel resistor and see if it has any holes or is arching to something. You can find the wire next to your washer fluid pump plug and the resistor is right under your air compressor.

My 8 was stalling after ignition and it turned out my wire was burned to a crisp and all I did was snip and replace the wire. Maybe your wire is doing the same. Just thought I would toss in my two cents.

This worked for me awesomely. Thanks guys

Any resolve to this issue??

Same here, did you ever figure it out??

Hi Guys

I recently bought a 2007 RX8. It runs beautifully however I have a similar idling issue. when the car is cold it starts on first stroke. After which the revs go up to 2k rpm then slowly starts dropping down to 1k rpm. The car then jumps revs between 1k to 2k rpm every 2 seconds until the point when the car just cuts off. When i start the car it idles for a few seconds and then does the same thing.

When the car eventually warms up it stops the erratic idling but then just dies. if you start the car it idles about 3-6 seconds then just cuts out as the rpm goes below 500. If i drive the car it dies at every stop. Basically every time i put my foot on the clutch and the revs drop down to 1k.

Once the car has been driven most of the day and is warm this issue seems to subside. but once the car cools down it loses idling again. The car is basically only drivable when you have driven with it the whole day. So I get 2 hours a day where the car idles without issues.

During all this the CEL comes and goes. I did a diagnostic on the car and it only throws out 4 O2 sensor errors.

The previous owners put a custom exhaust on the car and it seems they removed the sensor by the catalizer. Could that be what's causing this issue?

Has anyone had this issue and found a solution to it. I have been scouring the web for answers but to no avail :eyetwitch. I would appreciate any assistance.

What are those codes? If even one of the codes is for the front O2 sensor, that could be the entire problem with the idling.

The next thing I'd go for is to clean the MAF and ESS, then reset the ESS profile in the ECU (there is a procedure, search for 20-pedal-stomp). If that doesn't solve the problem, then I'd start hunting for vacuum leaks, or get the intake smoke tested for leaks. A vacuum leak could cause the problem.


I'd first guess at a front O2 sensor problem though, since you have 4 "O2 codes" (without knowing if all 4 are for the rear or not), and an O2 heater control problem could easily cause this.

Thanks RIWWP

I cant seems to find my note with the codes on them.

However I cleaned the maf and didn't notice a difference with the idling. But after I did some reading on all the things the maf effects I was convinced that it might be my main problem so I took a gamble and I purchased a new unit.

Now she's idling without any issues. She is still a bit sensitive in the mornings. (she stalls when the revs drop too quick) But that can be avoided by slowing down a bit sooner when she is cold but no issues when she is warm.

My CEL is still on though so will have a diagnostic done as soon as I get a chance and see if I still get the O2 sensor error. Atleast she is drivable now :lol2:

Pay $15 and get an OBD2 bluetooth/wifi adapter from amazon.com, pair it with your smartphone, and you can read and clear codes yourself, see live data, etc...