Idle but dies on reving
 

First off I want to thank everyone who has posted tips, tricks and guides on this type of issue I have tried many and a few of them have made some minor progress with my engine.

I want to start off with the infomation of my car, its an 04, I have recently put a new engine in it, the car as about 85k miles and the current engine has about 40k miles on it. I have hollowed out the stock cat on it due to it clogging, as well it as new spark plugs and coils. I have cleaned the MAF sensor with electronics cleaning spray as well. I have checked the elbow connectors on the accordion on the air intake as well. I also tried the 20 brake pump a couple times as well. After the engine died this last time I tried, I restarted it 5-10 mins later and it back fired every time I let off the gas after reving.

Here is the issue, I can start the car and idle just fine, but as soon as I hit the gas and rev past 2k RPMs and let off it starts to drop and sputter then eventually leading to dieing. I can slowly throttle down and feather it untill it will idle again but if I just let off it dies. As soon as the upload is finished I will be including 3 links to the following:

Engine Idle from engine: http://youtu.be/xSYFyaNLFVk

Enigine Idle from rear: http://youtu.be/AiT8XopO_lM

Engine Rev leading to dieing : http://youtu.be/-Z98_wfl2og

EDIT: The medal on medal rattling sound is the sound of my heat shield on the down pipe hitting the down pipe as it seems the weild as broken

did you disconnect battery recently?
If you did, that's normal, just give it some time, couple of drive cycle.

It has been disconnected recently, but I cant give it a few drive cycles, I can not drive it because once I pop the clutch in to slow down the RPMs drop and it dies. all the testing I have done has been not driving, I each time i have had it started I let it run atleast 30 mins before doing what I call a "Rev test" to see if it will die

Have you pulled the codes for the Check engine light?

Oh yea thats something I ment to add sorry, the only code Im pulling is 171, which is lean fuel ratio, but the exhaust smells and looks like its burning rich, I dont know if its because, like I stated, am running a hollowed out midpipe.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? You can use a propane torch or carb spray. If there are no vacuum leaks I would take it back to the dealer. The replacement engines are re-manufactured and people have gotten bad motors that were DOA. It has happened to at least three member that I can think of off the top of my head (alneilson, pdxhak, and Hoss-05).

Ive checked for leaks the best I can, and I cant take it back to the dealer for a warranty, I put the engine in myself, the engine sounds like it should while Im reving, but it wont hold an idle after reving. Could the catless midpipe be an issue? Is what I mean by that is, could the computer be adjusting the ratio too low because of the raw sample its puling off the rear o2 sensor or could also be caused due to a bad rear sensor

You'll have to keep the rpm up at stop to avoid stalling.
It's pain in the ass during traffic, but that's what you need to do.
A lot of ppl have been there, sadly, lol.

Is there a way to do this without moving the car...my driveway is up hill and it was a pain to get it up the hill before it was running

It's not the midpipe and it would not take the computer that long to adjust. At idle not all the injectors come into play so it's most likely not the injectors. But if you have a bad seal on the upper intake manifold you will have a major vacuum leak.

Who built the motor?

stock motor 40k miles from a wrecked bodied car

I'm having similar problems right now.
Plus my AFR's are also sweeping all over as well.

If I figure anything out (I'm in total diagnosis mode right now) I will post it here.
I've currently got the UIM off, I'm waiting for a valve solenoid I broke, it should be in tomorrow.
I will then hook up my air compressor to look for boost leaks.
I've also purchased a vacuum pump so in turn I'll check for vacuum leaks.

Please keep us updated.

OOOOOOHHHHHHHHH. Stalling can be indicative of a loss of compression. Did you PROPERLY compression test the motor before installing it? If not get that done ASAP.

Some ppl have done in just the parking lot.
After the car warms up, hold the rpm above 3k+ for a period amount of time like 5 to 10min and slowly decrease the rpm and hold it for another 5-10min.
Keep doing that until the rpm is down to idle rpm, which around 950 to 750.
If the car won't idle, just shut it and wait it cools down and repeat the step.

I don't know effective this method is, cuz' the whole point is to let the ECU to relearn the fuel trim at different rpm. Obviously, you'll have more rpm to play with on highway.

The least drive cycle i've done was 3, and I've gone to 10+ drive cycle before...

ok doing something like that it sounds like my car would idle my problem is reving to say 4k then letting off as if I was about to come to a stop is when it dies. Should I try doin that after the cycle you mentiond?

To the OP, what 9K is talking about is true.

I've got low compression, but for now I'm rejecting his reality and substituting my own.

And I swear I can hear a vacuum leak. So until I finish doing all my boost and vacuum tests I'm not going to blame low compression yet.
But the thought haunts me.

To 9k I personally didnt, but the issue now is that Im not near a dealer to get it to without a small fortune to get it there

Are you at Bragg?

Yes, u can.

9k Im no longer at bragg, havent updated my info, Im on ETS leave in AR.

I do have an update, I went and got a can of starter fluid and started checking better with it on vacuum leaks. I didnt have any starter fluid to check with the first time, but it turns out there is a vacuum leak right where the plastic housing meets the manifold. I am going to take it apart after it cools off and check the gaskets, and see if I cant swap them with the ones I have on hand, if not anyone know how much they would be?

Sorry for the VERY late update here, life decided to catch up, but anyways..

I have gotten the new seals for the air intake. On that note though it seems to have gotten worse than better. It used to idle on its own after starting it, and would only die after reving, however now it wont even hold idle when I start it. Im also getting CEL code P0443, I looked at the DTC but have no idea what to do about this, anybody have any ideas?

if your having problems with high and low fuel trims start with the basics ie MAF sensor :cool:

a lesson ive litteraly just re learnt the hard way :wallbash:

Purge Solenoid problem...is the connector plugged in? It is just beside the throttle body to the left..black plug. Check the wires. It could be the solenoid as well..or the wiring between it and the PCM

Did you re-check for Vac leaks? What is your STFT at idle if it will idle?

Check your fuel pressure.....

I did get it to idle the first time but it was idling at almost 2k but that was before I did a computer reset, to re adjust from the vaccum leak and it was idling at almost 2k, and I cant keep it idle to check for more vac leaks since Im using the sarter fluid method. I dont know what STFT could you specify?


EDIT: I did forget to plug something in -.-
It would idle a little over 1k but after it hits op temp it idles really rough and its overheating now.

Fans coming on? Check to make sure there isn't something blocking them

STFT Is short term fuel trim...if it is high then you likely still have a vac leak. If it is big enough you will get a 0171 lean code after the trims max out and it is still not rich enough. Check that the VAD nipple is plugged off as well