I have an oil puker
 

Hi fellow zoomers

I't s a sad day for me, my Roxy's sick from one day to the next.

I don't post here much since the answer is usually somewhere on the forum.

The engine's puking rediculous amounts of oil through the breather pipe from the oil filler neck. Seems to happen in the upper rpms, from around 7000. It is so bad that the engine bogs down and there's a massive cloud of smoke behind me. oil has gone down from 3/4 dipstick to around 1/4 in less than 100km. :scared:

There has always been some "dampness" in the intake, but not like this.

I tried searching but found nothing which describes the problem mine has.

I'm thinking stuck oil pressure regulator? (Oil pressure looks normal) Maybe even the valve that controls the flow to the oil coolers which might be stuck or faulty? (although they did feel warm after the drive...)

Maybe even frothy oil? Last change was with 105000km, I used Castrol 15W40 mineral oil. I drove her very little the past few months - it's winter here.

She's a 2006, 6-speed manual with 107000km on the original engine. Mods are BHR ignition and catless midpipe. I never overfill, service every 5000km, premix with 2-stroke oil.

Any pointers, thoughts, ideas welcome.

Many thanks!
G.

Sounds like blow-by past the seals. Might be time for a new engine. Does your oil smell like gas?

Compression test time.

Mine has the OMP running hard for most of my calculated loads in my tune.

Thanks guys!

Was hoping for some better news. What puzzles me is that this happened so quickly, one day she runs like a rocket, after 2 weeks rest THIS happens...

Hope I can find someone here who has a rotary compression tester.

What are the chances that the side seals get stuck due to some gum or deposits? Like I said, she's been standing around a lot the past few months...

:eek:Just de-oiled the intake... jikes... :eek:

That oil does not smell of gas, smells like a normal oil change would.

Side seals can stick from deposits, but getting them freed up is the problem. There are a couple methods available that involve ATF or another liquid into the spark plug holes, but don't get your hopes up with those. Might free itself with some high rpm runs, or it might break worse. This is all assuming the seal is just stuck. I think a rebuild is in your future, so might as well drive it around until it either fixes itself or you get tired of putting more oil in it. Maybe someone else can chime in and be more optimistic.

Thanks Harlan.

I read up a bit on seafoam and that ATF trick. Will try over the weekend.

Sadly we don't get seafoam over here, what would compare best to that? Carb cleaner? Brake cleaner? Injector cleaner?

I'd go for Marvel Mystery Oil myself. But I've never had a side seal stuck in that manner.

That would be one of the worst possible things someone could do to a Renesis engine in this situation.

^As requested

Water.

Water to remedy stuck seals?

Water can clean carbon, but remember anything you try to free the seal with will end up in your oil pan. I wouldn't go sucking up water in the intake unless you like water in your oil. If you are set on trying it then ATF has been used by the Rx7 guys for stuck apex seals and it seems to do more good then harm. I've used MMO to start low compression or flooded engines and it's pretty harmless. Don't just throwing any solvent in there, because some could cause problems with your soft seals.

No mater what you try remember this is just a long shot, it might not free up the seal or it might not be a stuck seal. For all we know there could have been some sort of catastrophic failure that damaged a side seal. This could even make things worse. A rebuild is the most reliable way to fix it, but I understand that's a hard pill to swallow.

Oh and no matter what you try, if it works or fails, change your oil immediately after. You don't want to run around with diluted oil.

You wouldn't believe how much water you can use while cleaning our engine.

It turns to steam, cleans, evaporates.

BUT you need to know how to do it.

Unless you have a stuck side seal, then it goes into the oil pan.

MMO will carbon on up like a SOB in a rotary engine.

On one hand you say you don't know, on the other you try come across like you do, only to make recommendations that clearly indicate you don't.

I highly recomnend not to follow that advice.

It looks like another exhaust :crying:

Not revving full throttle and only up to about 7000

That IS alot of sump compression...

I didn't recommend using it in place of gasoline or even running it as a premix(which some people do). A one time use of a few ounces in each housing is harmless... Also let me google that for you:
Let me google that for you

But You didn't say just any engine. So here is a rotary engine search:
Let me google that for you

I clearly stated I had never unstuck a side seal, and was only advising what could be used to try and unstick one. The recommendation to not use water is based on the blowy which is now obvious in the video, and would put most of the water in the pan. Since you use a whole lot more water then solvent to steam clean an engine it could easily put enough water in the pan to dilute the oil and cause bearing damage.


Says the person who has given almost no advice, and that advice has been either completely wrong or highly misguided.

Yes, I didn't get specific since this is an RX8 with a Renesis engine. Saw the tear down of a Renesis that was run exclusively on MMO for pre-mix and considering the not so great mileage it was as bad as anything I've ever see for one, which is the basis for my recommendation. Didn't have anything else noticeable that would have caused it, but have to admit that the actual fuel source quality (WRT being tested) was unknown. I still don't recommend MMO in a Renesis engine.

as for the general who knows what blathering, believe what you want and I'll do the same ...

Uhm ... speak your mind, don't hold back.