Gaining oil every week?
 

I recently (6,000mi.) had my engine rebuilt. After my second oil change my oil seems to multiply every week when I check it. For the first two weeks it was good, it is far above the full mark, now 2 months since the change. I only check it when completely cooled while in my same spot in the garage. I have not noted any change in coolant level either. I do have a SOHN adapter so I am not using engine oil to lube the seals. What do you think could be causing this?

First of all (as per instructions in the Series 1 owners manual) you should have your engine warmed up, then turn it off and wait five minutes or so for the oil to settle and then check your dipstick (with your car on a completely flat and level surface) . Check your oil when it is still warm, NOT completely cooled down.

It is not a good idea to have the oil overfilled as it can wind up into your intakes. There is no actual physical way for engine oil to multiply. MY guess is you are getting differences in the mark due to checking your oil at less than correct oil temp and/or the car being on an non-level surface. Who did your oil changes? It is common that folks can overfill during an oil change.

I'll warm it up and check again. I did my oil change, not my first rodeo, so I know it was done correctly and the level was 1/16 under the full after the change and pressure check.

it's possible you have a fuel injector leaking. see if your oil smells like raw gas.

The fuel injectors were tested and cleaned when the rebuild was done. The oil has a very light fuel smell.

I have checked it after a warm up and 5 minute cool down and am having the same high oil issues. I will drain some then see if it continues to rise.

Any kind of fuel smell in any cars oil is not a good thing. Perhaps when the injectors were installed one of the O-rings slipped or rolled my Nissan did this several times before it finally sealed right.

Aha I didnt know from your original post that your oil had a fuel smell.

With a Sohn Adaptor installed and Premixing there IS a way for the 2 stroke oil to get into the oil pan .... but not common in a fresh rebuild. Normally it only occurs when u have bad oil scraper/oil control rings .. then some of the remaining 2 stroke oil from side seal lubrication gets scraped beyond the oil control rings and goes back into the oil pan ... its also a Problem that People use 2 stroke oil meant for Pre-Mixing in a Sohn Adaptor Reservoir.

Some 2 strokes are for Pre-Mix only (for example Motul 800) and some are for Oil Injection (for Example Motul 710) .. the Pre-Mix 2 Stroke Oils are pre-dilutet to mix with the fuel better.

Greetings
Thomas

First you just need to know what fluid is being added to the oil. Pull a sample and send it to Blackstone Labs for an analysis. The extra fluid in the oil will show up, and you will know where the problem is coming from. Water, coolant, fuel, 2-stroke, etc...

Probably fuel dilution.
If on the stock ECU, suspects would be injectors leaking, side seals worn or poor clearances, irons out of spec, frequent periods of cold idling...or a combination of these.

Get a sample of the oil tested as RIWWP suggests, otherwise we are all best guessing at what possibly has contaminated it. Once the contaminate is known, then that will point at probable source. I also would go back to your engine rebuilder and I would get them involved in being responsible for any fix if it was a problem with their rebuild or their installing the engine after the rebuild. Obviously you have done nothing to the car except oil changes since their work, they should have some responsibility here.

Or we could suggest that he's not checking his oil correctly....or that he over-filled.

I have drained the oil down to midway between the full and first dot. I have been checking every time I come home from work and don't notice anything yet. It did take about a week to see any movement the first time.

I just ordered a blackstone kit per RIWWP so I can know exactly what/if anything is diluting the oil. I will not rule out the oil checker being the problem. I do allow my car to warm up for 2-5 minutes on the first start of the day.

I am using Pennzoil Marine for premix(see pic).

Thank you all for your help. I will keep up with this thread and post updates if the oil level rises or I get my analysis.

you should not use marine oil for premixing. marine oil is formulated for cold running engines. you will get the best results from using weedwacker oil. just make sure you use synthetic 2cycle oil.

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Good advice from wiesel42. You could also look into premix specially made for rotary engines, like Idemitsu and Pettit Racing's Protek-R.

We're going off-topic, but I know of no reliable longitudinal study that would justify the stupidly silly high prices, plus shipping costs, of any of the "special rotary 2-cycle" oils. Regardless, I don't see how switching to pre-mix from relying solely on the OMP will influence the OP's experience of growing oil levels.
And if the OP was checking his oil too quickly after shutdown, or not waiting until it was warm, that would reflect is lower oil levels, not the higher ones he's reporting.

Hey Signal 2, it is ok for us to make a quick post to help guide the op from making a bad decision about premix. We knew you would get us back on topic right afterwards, so no worry.:)

With worn side plates/oil control rings, a sohn adaptor and heavy premix you WILL end up with an overfilled engine as the oil gets beyond the oil scraper/oil control rings ... especially when the oil control rubber/viton rings already broke in pieces.

Greetings
Thomas

Due to worn oil control rings fuel can also get past into the oil ... especially when the car has longer cold start idle phases.

Greetings
Thomas

I think it still has to pass the side seals first. And it may even be a contributor to worn oil control rings...kind of a cascading effect. :)