Fuel Injector Grommets
 

I have searched and can't find an answer to this. I just got my injectors back from Injector Rehab after being cleaned and flow tested and it looks like they sent the wrong lower primary grommets. I have attached a picture of the injector and grommets. The grommet on the right is what came off the injector when I pulled them to ship them. Can I use the ones Injector Rehab put on or do I need to get ones like it had?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1e58755416.jpg

Either will work. I would use the OEM ones if they aren't hard...

Thats partially why I am asking. As when I pulled the injectors to send them off, the oem grommet for the front primary injector stayed in the housing, and when I pulled it out it was extremely dirty and I suspect that it was not sealing the injector properly. Infact, when I took the injectors out I noticed alot of fluid built up in that crevice between the housing and intake manifold, which I suspect may have been gas. If the grommets that Injector Rehab sent will work then I will use them, as I would prefer to use new grommets to rule out any leaks.

Will the smaller seal atleast work to see if having the injectors serviced fixed my issue? The bigger seals that came off my engine are both pitted on the outside and I suspect they were causing a vacuum leak. My local dealer can't order them til monday.

Message sent. Thank you in advance for the help.

LOL..I don't mind as long as it's not just for the sake of arguing 😉

They do seal I have used them that way....not as well though...and as I said I would use the OEM ones too 😁 so no argument needed.

To the OP....they are just a vac leak seal...there would be no fuel there unless they were leaking from the top at the fuel rail. It is more likely a bit of water 😁

I got to looking through the bag of old o-rings and grommets and it looks like one of the o-rings that sealed to the rail had a nick in the side. So may have been a leak. I had some rags stuffed down there while the injectors were out so hopefully won't see anymore liquid down there. I know its a leak, cause as much as that engine has run it shouldve burnt it all off by now.

I chanced using the old ones just to see if the injectors were the issue. I still plan on replacing them as I don't really like the idea of used seals in that area. But it looks like injectors were not the problem. In an attempt to try everything back in stock form I have ordered a set of stock coils and wires as I currently have an LS conversion. Thinking maybe the ebay harness and ebay (Herko) coils may be a problem. I know you sell the conversion kit, have you ever heard of anyone having starting issues when using ebay conversions as opposed to the one you sell?

LOL...you get what you pay for...

BHR uses proper coils and a good harness and stands behind it...the e-bay harnesses I have seen have been sub par. ....

Bad coils are a very common reason for starting and running issues in this platform. Why do you think the first thing people say to do is replace your coils for everything 😎

I paid I think $75 for the 4 coils. And I believe $60 ish for the harness and the first set of plug wires ($55 later for the beefier colored wired that match my paint scheme). How likely do you think it is that my hard start/no start issue when cold OR hot is because I cheaped out on coils and harness? I fixed all the other issues (leaking fuel pump housing, worn out fuel pump, ess sensor, cleaned maf sensor) after the ignition upgrade. Could the coils and harnsee I bought be bad enough to cause start issues?

LOL.
I usually don't suggest things without having done them myself first. Keeps me out of trouble

Having a bunch of parts in the garage helps too....I can go out and try stuff before I open my mouth if I don't know

I think i told you in email, but cannot remember at the moment lol. Anyways, I had to replace the pump assembly because the outlet was cracked so I bought a used pump with 60k-ish miles on it, but have swapped in a 265lph pump. Other than that and having the injectors serviced I havent done much else.

I've got a pc based program I can use to see if somethings amiss. Will do that tomorrow. And other than the cat being gutted and muffler cut off, the exhaust is back together. I think I had it disconnected to see if the muffler was stopped up. And let me know if theres any testing I can do on my end as far as PCM. I do work at a dealer, albeit a Nissan one, so have access to more tools than a normal owner and would be more than happy to help out.

Didn't you say in another thread that your engine has low compression?

If you are replying to me then no. Maxda told me it was pushing compression through the radiator, rad cap blew off, and smelled like it was burning coolant. But through my own observations I have found all that to be wrong. There are no bubbles in my overflow, the radiator cap has never blown off on me, and me and 5 other people all agree that the exhaust does not smell like burning coolant. Besides, I never lose coolant

Hey, if it is the PCM itll atleast give me an excuse to go with aftermarket engine management. But I will be checking tonight/tomorrow.

For an NA car...you won't get it to run any better on anything else ;)

I think that the 8's wil get like the 7's. The wiring harnesses start to get brittle and buggy and then things go downhill from there. Some of the wiring on the stock harnesses is marginal when new...and it doesn't get better when you add a little corrosion and water :)

At least be glad we don't have the horror story of a rats nest of Vac and boost hoses that run the FD turbos :)

Ok, then it gives me an excuse to go FI :) nd yeah, I have noticed some wear in my harness, but worst case I can get another from Rotary Resurrection. How hard is it to replace a PCM? Just unplug and swap? Or does it have to go to the dealer?

Needs to be programmed. You need the "as built" data from Mazda to do it. ( basically a page of #'s to enter into the correct places in the programming)

I thought I had just read a thread you started where you had mentioned having low compression. 90psi at 250RPM from what you stated there.

Was more meaning IF it had low compression I wouldn't worry. And if you read further on that thread you would see that I went beack and looked at a conversation I had with a friend of mine about the compression, and that again while not having actual numbers I confirmed that each face was at 100psi minimum and that at that time the starter was NOT spinning at 250 rpm. That was before ground kit and cleaning the terminals on the starter wire so it was spinning 225-235. Further more, a few weeks agoI was able to get the car started and idling decently. Let it warm up, revved it to 4000 and shut it off. Turned the key and it started in under 2 seconds. Its my understanding that if it was a conpression issue, the car would not have started nearly that fast when hot.

Also, heres the video I showed Charles earlier that has him thinking PCM/injector drivers :
And heres a video from 2 weeks ago with a hot start on a $10 fuel pump that had to be primed everytime I tried to start the car cold:

Yeah I dunno man, that sounds like a lot of assuming. That engine sounds like toast to me. But I hope you figure it out, good luck.

Why does it sound toast? Because its loud? When I took the first video I was running with the exhaust unbolted at the cat to see if it was stopped up. The second video was while using a fuel pump that wasn't putting out nearly enough gas.

Ah, the exhaust was off...... Your methods of diagnosis are interesting that is for sure :)