Crankshaft Seal Replacemnet *Need Help*
 

You can't just remove the bolt and replace the seal....the front stack will collapse if you don't do it properly and that will cause a big mess...........

You can prop the clutch in and then remove the bolt/ front hub and replace the seal. I believe there is a writeup along those lines somewhere. It's not something for a novice though. I'll see if I can find it.

P.S. If you screw it up you will be facing a nasty rebuild.

P.P.S. It's not a crankshaft, its an eccentric shaft or e-shaft. If you say it again you will get slapped in this forum, don't say I didn't warn you.

Here:
Instructions: Front Pulley / Thrust Bearings
Potential ending as lamp: Engine Damage!
Dangerous instructions, but do include a good bit about using the starter to remove the pulley bolt: FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp HOW-TO - Oil Thermo Bypass Pellet Shim Procedure

That front bolt is torqued to close to 275ish ftlbs with red locktite, you will also need a torch and/or extra long cheater to get it off. Be prepared. It's a real bugger.

Please don't turn your engine into a lamp.

http://atkinsrotary.com/store/Rotor-Clocks/

;)

Correct procedure to remove?
 

Okay, I am I need to remove my E shaft pulley and replace the front main seal.

Im looking at removing the 19mm bolt, and to keep it all from spinning- I just assumed leave it gear and parking brake on.

But I keep seeing some say dissengage the Clutch and remove the starter and hold the flywheel with a prybar.

#1- i will be doing this repair by myself, so i cant hold the flywheel with a prybar and remove the Nut.
#2- Actkins Rotary sells a flywheel block tool for $65. I do not wish to remove my transmission to use this tool. or can i find spending $65 for a one time use.
#3 Dealerships had a special plate to bolt in place of the starter- fat chance i find one of those.

So my question is, leaving the car in 6th gear and parking brake set, what harm would come from breaking the nut loose this way? If the pulley spins from the 9 oclock line up mark, i can spin it back to position after breaking nut loose before removal.

Will I damage internal of the transmission?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

If this is the incorrect way of removing the nut, looks like ill be driving with a oil leak until complete engine failure

Caution:

This is not an easy fix.... if you do it wrong you will wreck the front thrust stack bearings and shortly thereafter the rest of the motor. Make sure you understand what will happen if things don't stay aligned (before you start.)

Are you sure that is where the oil leak is coming from? It is much more common for the oil metering pump seal to leak.... and that often looks like it is coming from the front seal area. This is a much easier thing to fix.

I would clean it up and be sure before I started to try and change the front seal

Fully aware of the Thrust bearing could be damaged in the process of the removal of the E shaft pulley, understand i need to keep pressure on the flywheel to keep the E shaft from any movement, Just wanted to know if I could leave it in gear to break the nut loose. then apply pressure to the E shaft, then removal.

I pray to god its not the front main seal leaking.

like you mentioned. i need to clean all the oil off to help source the leak. i have oil all over the front case and pan, but i have seen pics of a bad front main seal and the oil flung all over, and it doesnt look like that, so maybe im super lucky. and its the metering pump.

The oil puddle is about a 1/4-1/2 a quart of oil puddle on the passenger side front corner of oil pan. doenst always puddle, but its getting worse and adding oil is getting expensive. actually saw a line of oil from where i moved in the driveway.....leads me more to think its not the front main seal.

hope to get this sorted this weekend.

That's a big leak for either the MOP or the front seal.

Check the oil lines....they have a tenancy to corrode and leak. There was TSB in salt prone areas to replace the oil lines if I remember correctly