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Engine coolant level warning light
i asked my dealer about cutting the wires to the coolant reservoir tank and was told the red light would stay on all the time.
So wouldn't pulling the plug at the top passenger side of the coolant tank be the same as cutting the wires? I wonder about sorting the two wires together? |
Just pull the plug out!
The dealer hasn't got a clue!
I just pulled the plug out of it's socket and then partially re-inserted so it wouldn't hang loose. Bingo - no light! Cutting the wire would have the same effect. A proper solution would be to do the fiddly job of replacing the bottle but you are likely to have a nightmare with all the extra complications. Best option may be just to add more buoyancy to the float with a dab of super sticky PU foam.....
Originally Posted by dgd
(Post 4819721)
i asked my dealer about cutting the wires to the coolant reservoir tank and was told the red light would stay on all the time.
So wouldn't pulling the plug at the top passenger side of the coolant tank be the same as cutting the wires? I wonder about sorting the two wires together? |
Originally Posted by dgd
(Post 4819721)
i asked my dealer about cutting the wires to the coolant reservoir tank and was told the red light would stay on all the time.
So wouldn't pulling the plug at the top passenger side of the coolant tank be the same as cutting the wires? I wonder about sorting the two wires together? Just remember that anytime you even think about bringing your car to a mechanic, it's these kind of retards that work on your car. |
For what it's worth, I had this issue. Replaced the entire coolant bottle and it persisted. It wasn't until I replaced my radiator hoses that this problem seemed to go away entirely. I didn't see any obvious leaks, but I can't help but notice the correlation. It might not always just be a faulty sensor.
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Originally Posted by TomX8
(Post 4819858)
Tell your dealer that he is retarded and should quit being a mechanic. I disconnected the coolant reservoir sensor and the light went off.
Just remember that anytime you even think about bringing your car to a mechanic, it's these kind of retards that work on your car. |
my light used to worry me constantly causing me to needlessly pull over and cool. pulled the plug set it in half way like that other guy now I drive with confidence of not breaking down. Doubt it was going to before either; but lights are annoying. I was driving around with a snap on verus to watch my temps and started to believe I was reading air pockets when the light was on and would stay on just a dummy light.
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Yeah, why spend $150 to fix something right when you can half-ass it.
If you're really lazy, you can just stick a piece of electrical tape over the light. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4820800)
Yeah, why spend $150 to fix something right when you can half-ass it.
If you're really lazy, you can just stick a piece of electrical tape over the light. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4790437)
My sole argument is not 'relying' on the light, but having it operable should a piece of debris or some other major failure occur while driving.
Particularly at highway speed when usual overheating symptoms wouldn't be so obvious. It's a warning light, not a "Hey idiot, you haven't checked your coolant in a year" light. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4820865)
This.
Any circumstance where the float warns you before imminent failure faster than a digital temp gauge or the regular temp gauge can is highly unlikely big gator. Just school me and ill learn. When would that float save me and nothing else could have? |
How many people will spend thousands of dollars, or even know what a Snap-on Verus is?
Unless someone offers a reasonable alternative to monitoring the coolant in real time with a warning light or alarm, I will never say it's OK to disable a warning light. Advising new or less knowledgeable owners to defeat a warning system is irresponsible. |
Devil's advocate here...
When the sensor throws more false positives than correct ones that data channel becomes complete trash. Yes you should probably just replace it, though if I had to pick and choose the things I was fixing on my car for budget reasons, it probably wouldn't be on the very top of my list. Any circumstance where the float warns you before imminent failure faster than a digital temp gauge or the regular temp gauge can is highly unlikely big gator |
Good points.
I'll respond by saying if one sweats spending $150 to properly fix a problem on an RX8, then they own the wrong car. They should buy a Honda, Toyota or some other less maintenance dependent toaster oven on wheels, not a sports car. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4820885)
Good points.
I'll respond by saying if one sweats spending $150 to properly fix a problem on an RX8, then they own the wrong car. They should buy a Honda, Toyota or some other less maintenance dependent toaster oven on wheels, not a sports car. If someone were to make a conscious decision that they'd rather get a SOHN adapter, or a brake job this week and replace the bottle next month I don't think I could really fault them for that whatsoever. Now if they picked up a brand new perfectly running R3 with a bad bottle, then yeah you'd have to be an idiot not to fix it. |
In theory, yes.
HOWEVER, you shouldn't let your brakes get to the point of being a safety issue, and that should be a maintenance item and be part of a scheduled maintenance budget, tires also. Sohn adapter isn't a critical fix, it's a modification, secondary to the proper coolant light solution in importance. |
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Anyone can obtain a 4 dollar obd2 connector and some piece of potatoe technology to communicate with it and get the same digital coolant temp signal as a verus. Theirs instances where the radiator light doesn't come on even with a bone dry bottle, can you still rely on a sensor then? Isn't it more preventative to pop your hood sometime and check your fluid levels. Honda Toyota Mazda new and old.
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Originally Posted by Supra1jz
(Post 4820920)
Anyone can obtain a 4 dollar obd2 connector and some piece of potatoe technology to communicate with it and get the same digital coolant temp signal as a verus. Theirs instances where the radiator light doesn't come on even with a bone dry bottle, can you still rely on a sensor then? Isn't it more preventative to pop your hood sometime and check your fluid levels. Honda Toyota Mazda new and old.
I've wasted enough time. Do what you want to do. Hopefully new members have common sense and know when to disregard bad advice. Until then, as usual, every few months when someone says "Unplug it" I will continue to say advising someone to disable a warning light instead of fixing it properly is irresponsible and stupid. If even one person understands the logic, it's worth it. Move along now. |
I agree with BigCajun, it is foolish and stupid to unplug the sensor and rely only on occasional visual inspection of the coolant. Get it fixed or replaced. That is a lot less expensive than replacing a cooked engine, by thousands of dollars !
Don't follow bad advice, it can cost you big time with these cars. |
:crying:
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Pulled the plug of the coolant overflow tank.
Red light gone right away and still gone many KM later. I'll just check the level visually as I always do. Taking my chances I know but I don't want to ignore read lights from other systems. |
Good luck Dgd, hope you don't wind up with an expensive regret for not getting it fixed or replaced.
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You'll be fine you. Everyone should be checking their over flow bottle before the light comes on anyways; but they won't so shops and dealers will continue to make big bucks installing and replacing dumb ass lights for dumbasses.
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The light is not there to remind you that your coolant level is getting low. Its sole purpose is to alert you to a SUDDEN and potentially catastrophic loss of coolant. Like when a flying rock or debris suddenly punctures a cooling hose or your radiator.
Disable or ignore it at your own risk. |
Originally Posted by New Yorker
(Post 4821297)
The light is not there to remind you that your coolant level is getting low. Its sole purpose is to alert you to a SUDDEN and potentially catastrophic loss of coolant. Like when a flying rock or debris suddenly punctures a cooling hose or your radiator.
Disable or ignore it at your own risk. You would see steam and pressurized coolant coming out of what ever leak unless it was internal and then you would see smoke from the exhaust. |
Supra1jz, by that time, your rotary engine would already be toast fella. These things are not like piston engines that might survive that. Keep on tempting fate and watch it rear up and bite you.
BTW been driving rotaries for 44 years. If you won't take the advice of the experienced rotary folks here, then go your own way and take any consequences. That is always your choice. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by gwilliams6
(Post 4821348)
Supra1jz, by that time, your rotary engine would already be toast fella. These things are not like piston engines that might survive that. Keep on tempting fate and watch it rear up and bite you.
BTW been driving rotaries for 44 years. If you won't take the advice of the experienced rotary folks here, then go your own way and take any consequences. That is always your choice. Good luck. |
What a silly post. not worth a reply. Good luck mate.
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Originally Posted by gwilliams6
(Post 4821480)
What a silly post. not worth a reply. Good luck mate.
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Haha. I liked the feather comment.
A proper way to detect massive coolant failure is with a pressure sensor on the coolant system, not level in the overflow tank. I don't want to learn to ignor any real trouble warning lamps. Coolant level is useless so I take that away to not be distracted from other warnings. My choice, my pain. |
My 06 started throwing the occasional false positive with 27k miles on the clock. I am most likely going to move to an aftermarket aluminum tank with a replaceable sensor.
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Originally Posted by GQM
(Post 4822369)
My 06 started throwing the occasional false positive with 27k miles on the clock. I am most likely going to move to an aftermarket aluminum tank with a replaceable sensor.
Please share info. :) |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4822370)
Do you have one in mind?
Please share info. :) http://www.youtube.com/c/quinnkizis |
coolant sensor
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 2733465)
it starts off with the light on occasionally , becomming more frequent over time then one day it just stays on - :(
This is an old thread but just thought I'd add my findings. .. Im an electrician. ..During my rebuild had the same problem. ..i checked the switch with a continuity test /multimeter..when turned upside down the switch float triggers fine...fault is not the switch. . Put it on a bench. .plugged up holes. ..While multimeter hooked up. .float wouldn't raise with coolant. .coolant /water. ..or cold/hot water. ..and i mean boiling.hot. I used a terminal screwdriver to raise the float manually. ..magnetc reed switch triggers. ..float is not floating .its obviously the bouyant material no longer is bouyant ..thought about attaching a new piece of bouyant material to the float. ..but if it becomes dislodged it will get sucked into the cooling system. ..engine failure. ..like the other lads said live with it...check the coolant regularly. ..ive already replaced one radiator snapping off the infamous nipple...not touching it again. ..just something to think about while replacing the expansion tank...word from the specialists...cut all hoses from the tank..then gently slice remaing hose down the centew to over flow on radiator *(small hose on bottom right of tank)sacrifice the hoses. ..you will break the radiator otherwise. ..you may even still break it. ..personally im not going to do it again |
coolant sensor
Originally Posted by dalippy
(Post 4863919)
Coolant sensor not working. .. This is an old thread but just thought I'd add my findings. .. Im an electrician. ..During my rebuild had the same problem. ..i checked the switch with a continuity test /multimeter..when turned upside down the switch float triggers fine...fault is not the switch. . Put it on a bench. .plugged up holes. ..While multimeter hooked up. .float wouldn't raise with coolant. .coolant /water. ..or cold/hot water. ..and i mean boiling.hot. I used a terminal screwdriver to raise the float manually. ..magnetc reed switch triggers. ..float is not floating .its obviously the bouyant material no longer is bouyant ..thought about attaching a new piece of bouyant material to the float. ..but if it becomes dislodged it will get sucked into the cooling system. ..engine failure. ..like the other lads said live with it...check the coolant regularly. ..ive already replaced one radiator snapping off the infamous nipple...not touching it again. ..just something to think about while replacing the expansion tank...word from the specialists...cut all hoses from the tank..then gently slice remaing hose down the centew to over flow on radiator *(small hose on bottom right of tank)sacrifice the hoses. ..you will break the radiator otherwise. ..you may even still break it. ..personally im not going to do it again |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 1917618)
Okay, so I keep getting a random coolant light on the dash every now and then. It gets more frequent everyday. I have checked the coolant and everything is fine? Does anyone know where this sensor is? I want to check the sensor before I go all the way to the dealer. Thanks.
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cork under float
Originally Posted by MANIACman
(Post 4865068)
I sawed my original tank in half to see how it worked. Trust me on the. The float desolved so the magnet sensor is laying on the bottom of the tank. If you can build a ship in a bottle? Maybe you can attach a cork under the magnet but personally I just bought a new tank. Just getting rid of a part that is stained that ugly worn out plastic color made it worth while.
if the 'cork' comes loose and manages to go down the coolant pipe will block thr the system and blow the engine. ...bad idea...i thought of it decided definitely not... as i pointed out the nipple on the radiator can break off installing the new over flow tank... costing a heap of money ...For what? ...a light on the dash that this forum has more than once pointed to the fact is very inaccurate. Americans call those lights idiot lights. ..because if they are on...and something really has gone wrong ..its usually too late... unplug the sensor and check the car for oil and coolant on a regular basis... neccesary care on a rotary engined car anyway ..watch your temperature and oil pressure and engine check guages instead. .far more important. .. |
Hi all,
I've had my RX8 since 24 Nov 2019, had the front brake calipers, disks, and pads replaced on 14 Apr 2020. It has 51500 miles on the clock. The second time I drove it after the replacement of the front brakes, I noticed the engine coolant light came on, and stays on indefinitely each time I drive it now. I drive conservatively. I tried to see if the coolant was low, but not sure how to check as I couldn't see any level marks on the reservoir. Can anyone advise please? I also saw a comment on this thread where someone saw the warning light after they had their brakes bedded in. Thanks, Masum https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...499cf4b509.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e5985965fc.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7800125f8a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e5ab822cd7.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e4b161192d.jpg |
Open your hood.
left side you can see the fill marks. Cheers. Travis |
In my case the light just came on and wouldn't go away. Research round here showed that it was something to do with the level switch in the Engine coolant fluid tank. I just pulled the plug connected to the tank because I don't want any lights on my dash that are not supposed to be lit up. The theory behind that apparently was to let you know when you had coolant leak because the level will go down in the reservoir. In my opinion that is a dumb engineering choice. It would've been better to monitor the pressure of the coolant system.
Anyway my light is off and when I plug it back in and it goes on again. I've left it unplugged for years not to worry. |
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Originally Posted by Heisen Delgosha
(Post 4916783)
It is interesting. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 1917618)
Okay, so I keep getting a random coolant light on the dash every now and then. It gets more frequent everyday. I have checked the coolant and everything is fine? Does anyone know where this sensor is? I want to check the sensor before I go all the way to the dealer. Thanks.
that OP was such a noob :rollingla:rollingla:rollingla . |
Will that make the light go away?
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Originally Posted by Respectedwealth
(Post 4927744)
Will that make the light go away?
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The ‘float’ has gone from the float switch!
Every RX8 gets this problem after a certain time. The float in the float switch is just a ball that degrades over time until it sinks and sets off the warning. As several people have mentioned, just changing or topping up the fluid helps...briefly! That is until the float degrades a shade more, or the fluid gets less supportive. Replacing the whole assembly can end up an expensive operation as easy to damage connected items. Detaching sensor cable easiest fix but risky as you may run out of coolant and blow the engine. Adding more buoyancy to the ball float is probably the cheap fix but you need to avoid leaving debris or anything that could detach and block your tubes. Anybody done this?
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 1917618)
Okay, so I keep getting a random coolant light on the dash every now and then. It gets more frequent everyday. I have checked the coolant and everything is fine? Does anyone know where this sensor is? I want to check the sensor before I go all the way to the dealer. Thanks.
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