Found it... Tx!

Anyone have a DIY how to replace the coolant bottle? Do we have to drain the radiator to replace the bottle?

I usually do not drain the coolant. I let the car sit long enough to completely cool down, as you remove each hose from the coolant bottle plug the fittings quickly with a rubber or silicone plug.

Sounds good. Thanks!

Pencils sometimes work good as well. :)
Even those small round tapered paintbrush handles will do the trick.

I like that you put all the conclusions on the first post :icon_tup:

Added a special warning to the first post on 4/8/2012. Something I hadn't really thought of as it didn't happen to me.

bummer, have to bump this up.
my coolant light starts to come on during cold start ups and goes away after warmed up.
I guess the float is becoming slowly less floaty.
So N3H1-15-350G is the one I should get in order to fix this? How do I know its the latest and greatest version?

Jason, no mate...

Order the complete Tank without the Pressure Cap..
N3H1-15-351G

If you want the Tank and Cap..but is about $60.00 more just for a Cap.!!
N3H1-15-350M

I would not use the other one (N3Y1-15-351, Tank ONLY ) where you take out the internal sensor and re-use it in the new tank with the new float (N3Y1-15-351)..

Use the first part number I listed, almost the cheapest and definitely the easiest way to go.

thanks man. it sucks when this happens after the bumper to bumper warranty expired.:sadwavey:

Yeah M8,

I think your Series II is like mine, made just before these few minor/major (but important updates to Coolant Bottle and P66M Manual Trans), there is actually only two iterations of Coolant Bottle that can give red light/float grief. That is those S2 RX-8's made before May 19th 2009, those S2's made after have tha latest CB.

We still don't know 'if' the latest and or replacement CB FLOAT stays 'afloat' after say 4 years...time will tell.

I am so stupid.
Turns out I am also blind too.
It was low oil level light which I forgot to check oil level and it was close to LOW. 1.5 qts below FULL.
It turned on then turned off after 10-20 seconds and I drove like that for 2-3 days hopefully nothing got damaged.
Stupid me forgetting checking the oil frequently.
Anyways added oil and soon will be changing the oil before winter hits.

Check your oil more often Jason.........................don't rely on the low level light!!!!!

if it is the sensor problem, should we need to worry about engine? the temp gauge is not increasing during driving. thank u for any suggestions

If it really is just the sensor, then there is really no reason to worry about the engine. However, you MUST check you coolant level often whether you live with the light, or unplug it.................and you MUST keep a close eye on the dummy gauge for any signs of trouble. The real issue with the dummy gauge in the car is that it's prettty much useless and by the time it moves, it's pretty much too late. If you don't catch it right away, then bad things can/will happen. Remember, that sensor just monitors the level(when not stuck), so it can only tell you that your level is low anyway.

wait are you serious? flush the coolant every year?

Ash first off BIG thanks for all the work you have done on this. I have been reading this thread for about an hour and THINK I know what I am doing. My one query is all sorts of people seem to be listing the N3H1-15-350M as bottle with sensor with cap - eg: 2005 MAZDA RX-8 | Cheap COOLING SYSTEM|COOLING SYSTEM Parts.

Anyhow, I live in the middle of the Pacific so I like to make things 100% certain (returns are a pain from here!) so I think I am going with TANK, SUB & SENSOR (N3H1-15-351G) - $110.81 - N3H115351G which seems to be the right baby for my early 2005 auto trans base model. Please tell me if I am wrong.

What I find a bit worrying is that the part number is the same as the original part number so how do you know you are getting a new one????

TIA

Steve :confused:

PS Oh any other recommended dealers??? (These guys took over from someone recommended in a 2011 link I followed.) They seem reputable and good on price with shipping - $134.

PPS Just had a new radiator added (they discovered a leaky rad while testing a stalling engine). The guys who sold me the new rad recommended a new rad cap. Any reason why a cheapo cap from Napa would be a prob??? EG http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...695_0314024172 once again thanks in advance. I see everyone saying keep original cap but don't they wear out a bit after 65 k miles of driving??? Just a thought. (BTW about to get a new engine so just trying to get everything up to spec :-)

What I posted is correct, the website is incorrect (part number), you need N3H1-15-351G

Tank without pressure cap....

EDIT: N3H1-13-351G is no longer available...see my next post below.

I've been living with the low coolant light for a few months now and thankfully found this thread. I called the stealer and they want $184 (Canada) for the N3H1-15-350G which appears to be what I need according to this thread.

Does anybody know of a better place to buy or order from? Are the ones sold thru internet resellers the same? Anybody have any success stories with internet companies?

New Coolant Bottle Update...
 

Just letting you guys know that Mazda (MNAO) are no longer offering the RX-8 Coolant Bottle with Sensor/Float ONLY...p/n N3H1-15-351G.

You can now only buy new the complete Coolant Bottle (with latest Sensor/Float) including the Pressure Cap for $60 more...N3H1-15-350M, now about $160 online.

So unless you can find a Dealer with N3H1-15-351G in stock then you will have to fork out another 60% $$$'s.

I think Paul @ Mazmart has some 351G's left?

broken pipe on radiator....grrr
 

hi i was attempting to change over the header tank and low and behold the plastic pipe going into the radiator broke off before i could remove the clip!!

do i now have to purchase a new radiator? or is there anything else that can be done?

i was thinking maybe to fill the hole left, then re route the pipe to another area? would that work??

or is it defo a new radiator?

as far as i can see, do i only need to remove the battery housing, and air box housing? then 4 bolts and last 2 remaining pipes?

rating of 1-10 for difficulty please.

or indeed any hints or tips please.

You and just about everyone else has done the same thing ! New rad is the only real fix unfortunately . It's not the easiest rad. to replace ..probably a 7 on the 1-10 scale for a DIY guy . But take it slow and easy and you won't have any problem .

so just remove air box and battery box and 4 bolts and water pipes?

i can get one from ebay for £63 delivered..

That sounds like a good start . I can't remember the exact steps involved , it's been a while , but I know it's all pretty obvious once you start .
It's quite hard to slide the new rad. back into place - that I do remember . There might be a DIY for it in the DIY section if you get stuck.

It's not too difficult to plastic weld it back on. Someone glued one back on successfully here too.