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Dave,
Notice the Pic (S) have been updated without the CAP.. http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1 |
Yep, saw that.................good eye!
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All good, I was only being a conspiracy theorist. I agree with your summary.
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hey i have this red light on. it looks like a house. well it goes on and off. i read the manuel and it says that it have something to do with the coolant water. can u help me out?
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It's actually a trash can. Not a house.
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Originally Posted by UrbanOcho
(Post 3862501)
It's actually a trash can. Not a house.
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Ive wanted to fix this for the past 5 months...
Im going to goto the dealer and play dumb and see if they ever heard of this happening. lol and theeeen....at the last minute they tell me i need a new radiator...im gonna show them the TSB haha |
1 Attachment(s)
Hi Mazurfer and all; its me again.
Wanted to send u a PM; thought might as well share it on ur thread. I finally replaced my coolant tank~! The part number of the tank is N3H1-15-351 without the G. Yes; my cap is being reused. I just collected my car from the Mazda service center; did not have the time to speak to the mechanic who did my car. My coolant bottle has been replaced with the one that comes with the sensor; i know this because they returned my old BROWNish bottle that has the sensor still intact + connector. I have a very big doubt when i pop up my hood and look at the bottle. Look at that circled in red. Nothing is connected~? Attachment 248807 Why is my connector NOT connected in place? Wait a minute! http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...IMG_2454-1.jpg From the picture you can see that my connector is being placed BELOW~? Im really puzzled. Ok im a lady i know nothing much about cars. Need all of ur advise here. From the wire it can see that it is connected below instead. So my question is; does the mechanic knows what he is doing? And also; how do i know if he installed the connector and everything without fault? Is there anyway to test? Kinda sounds stupid since i have a new coolant tank. Please adivse
Originally Posted by Mazurfer
(Post 3856664)
Vindication is so sweet on occasion!
Notice what it says under "Description". Check it out! I also spot what I think is a very, very important item. Check your VIN number because according to how this reads, I could have replaced just the bottle and not the sensor itself(the reed switch) since I have an Oct. 05 build date, but I'll have to confirm that against my VIN. This assumes of course you can actually buy the bottle without the sensor.................and not sure you can. :dunno: The float(the culprit in most cases) come with the bottle and not the sensor itself. Also...........this implies Tommy needs to do an update to the finishline site as it doesn't list this bulletin. If you want to check to see if your sensor is bad before attempting to buy the bottle itself, or whether you need the sensor and the bottle, then do this with the bottle still in the car: 1.) Unplug the sensor at the connector located to the left of the bottle. 2.) On the sensor side of the connector, use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the two terminals. With it unplugged, and assuming you have adequate coolant level, and a "good" float, you will measure > 2meg ohms. This means the reed switch(sensor)switch is open meaning............ a.) You have adequate coolant and........ b.) The float is okay and floating like it should be. 3.) If you measure less than say 100 ohms(I forget the actial number and finally threw away my old butcher shaft and magnet, but I think it was 10 ohms), then the float is riding low on the shaft, the reed switch has closed, and the float has lost buoyancy! |
I will help here...
The number you posted "Does Not Exits"...N3H1-15-351 You had either.. N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring. N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring N3H1-15-350M (Tank with New Cap) which they are not using at the moment. Now if you had this one installed N3Y1-15-351 Tank with No External Wiring, the tech guy would have reused your existing (old) sensor (not float) and Wiring...but your wiring plug looks new?? To me it looks like they installed a N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor and NEW Wiring (has everything except pressure Cap). He has forgotten to Clip the Cable Plug on, so Just do so and see if there is any light on dash when driving, note, a disconnected plug will give you NO dash light anyway, if you do plug it on and get a light then there is an issue with this dealer install. So, just plug that cable (clip) on and start/drive car, I am sure they guy just forgot to do this..:) You can not hurt anything. |
So, to help you more...
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything. If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring. So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...:) Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer. |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3874588)
So, to help you more...
Just grab the Circled Male Wiring Plug in last picture, and Clip it into the Female plug that is Fixed onto the Coolant Bottle...that is the pink and black wired Male Plug tucked under...it can ONLY click on ONE Way, you can not click it on incorrectly...or hurt anything. If you car is turned OFF and Ignition to OFF or KEY out, there is NO Power to that Plug and Wiring. So you Can not be electrocuted or shocked or hurt anything in anyway..OK...:) Or of you do not want to do this easy task, take it back to your dealer. Hi there Ash; I understand what u mean by just grabing the Circled Male Wiring Plug and Plug it into the Female plug. Reason being as shown in my last picture. The Male plug has been hard WIRED below the FEMALE PLUG. Meaning it is so sort "WIRED" connected to the FEMALE plug. The pink wired is still on the Male PLug but the black wired has been WIRED into the female plug below. If u get what i mean..hmm Why would the mechanic do that? |
Originally Posted by mopiko
(Post 3874602)
Hi there Ash;
I understand what u mean by just grabing the Circled Male Wiring Plug and Plug it into the Female plug. Reason being as shown in my last picture. The Male plug has been hard WIRED below the FEMALE PLUG. Meaning it is so sort "WIRED" connected to the FEMALE plug. The pink wired is still on the Male PLug but the black wired has been WIRED into the female plug below. If u get what i mean..hmm Why would the mechanic do that? I really doubt it has been "Hard Wired" at all..it is almost impossible to do. If you are not sure get a stick and see if the Male Plug moves, you should be able to pull the Male plug out and Up and Over to Click into Female plug on Coolant Bottle.. It is a tight area to move it in, as I said you cant hurt anything, unless the stick you use is razor sharp. Your pic to me just looks as if it is Stuck there, nothing more. I really cant tell you anymore not being there, if you do not have the confidence to move this Male Plug and Lead out then take it to a dealer, should be fixed in 5 seconds..:) |
After seeing your PM "J", I gotta agree with Ash in that they just forgot to plug it in.
I too doubt it's hard wired. So................let see if this helps(which is nothing more than Ash said), the wires and connector you see down there on the side are connected at the other end to the bottom of the bottle, and while those wires and connector might be jammed in there and stuck a little bit, you should be able to lift them upwards and then plug into the female connector. Give it a shot, with the car off, just carefully wiggle them a little bit(might have to use finger to move something out of the way) and without pulling too hard, see if you can get them unstuck from whatever is pinching them and holding them down there. Then just plug it in. There is no harm in leaving it the way it is, but..................since you bought a new bottle, you might as well use that fact and have the light come on whenever you run low on coolant. The only way that will happen is with that connector plugged in. There is no way the Tech would be stupid enough to attempt to wire your harness coming off the bottom of the bottle to what I will call the lower part of the female connector. If he did, you PM me, I'll fly to wherever you are and personally bitch slap the dude, then I'll correct it. Just due to the room involved, that would be so much trouble, it wouldn't make any sense at all. My guess is that when he put the new bottle in, the wires got pinched or held(if you will) and he brainfarted and forgot to plug it in. :banghead: |
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 248781
I think I see it now! See the gray connector you have in the red circle? It looks like it's plugged in somewhere, but it's not, it's just wedged in there below the other connector. take you finger and just bend/free it up. turn it a little bit, then lift it directly towards you as you view this photo. If you push down on that connector with your finger, you will see that it's free and not attached! |
Hey guys; thanks alot for your input.
I have chucked my rx8 back to the Mazda Service Center and have them sort it out. I just told them; connector not connected in place. Will give u shout out when i have any updated info. |
very interesting. my S2 fits within the VIN, but havent had problem with the light so I guess I just wait.
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hey thanks for all the points of view. My coolant light started flashing on interstate at 65 mph with cruise control on. it coms on and goes off. took to dealer...they said i needed a new engine. Had a second 2004 engine put in and after that I figured the light would go off. Wll no it is on all the time. I asked the dealer, they said perhaps a bubble of air or something affecting the sensor. They said to just ignore it if the levels are good. So I drive with it on. But when I run the air without the ac on, the car fill s with the smell of coolant. Now when I turn on the ac the car smells like coolant. Now the ac leaks water on my feet on the floor either right side or left side of front by accelerator. To top that off now, the heater does not work. The last time i took the car to the dealership they kept it for almost 2 weeks and I only received a rentl for 2 days, so I do not really want to go back.
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Should I replace my original tank?
I have an '05. Not having the false coolant light problem (except, oddly, one time a couple of years ago. Weird.) Is it worth buying a new tank for $109 to have the dealer replace the original? I'm due for the 2-year coolant flush.
Thanks! |
Originally Posted by New Yorker
(Post 4080570)
I have an '05. Not having the false coolant light problem (except, oddly, one time a couple of years ago. Weird.) Is it worth buying a new tank for $109 to have the dealer replace the original? I'm due for the 2-year coolant flush.
Thanks! Well, I guess if you got the money, but I don't think I would until you need to do it and you can do it yourself(instead of the dealer), he'll probably charge you $100.00 just to put it in. If you don't break off the radiator nipple, you can do it in about 20 minutes tops! |
^ Cool, thanks.
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@Mazurfer Thanks for the amazing post, you have really gone above and beyond for the Rx8 Club community.
This light has been bugging me for ages. I regularly check all the levels so I am not worried about not having enough coolant, I am just going to disconnect the cable. |
Really helpful thread, guys. Just got my '08 RX8 4 days ago and the coolant light issue has been driving me crazy. Luckily, I have a 30 bumper to bumper (+ I purchased the additional 150K Warranty) so I'm hoping that this will be covered. If not, guess I'll put my big girl panties on and see if this is something I can replace.
I'm a second generation RX woman, my mom drove an RX7 back in the late 80's. Love the "club", great wealth of information here...LOVE my RX8! |
just wanted to post that I love this board. It exact posts like this that let me knowledgably explain issues to the dealers, which make me love my rx8. That PDF was perfect and allowed me to NOT have any costly radiator work done.
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Do you guys have the link to the TSB? THat would be great!
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I will give you a tip, it is in this section as a stcky...still need a link?
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Found it... Tx!
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Anyone have a DIY how to replace the coolant bottle? Do we have to drain the radiator to replace the bottle?
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I usually do not drain the coolant. I let the car sit long enough to completely cool down, as you remove each hose from the coolant bottle plug the fittings quickly with a rubber or silicone plug.
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Originally Posted by gregs
(Post 4177787)
I usually do not drain the coolant. I let the car sit long enough to completely cool down, as you remove each hose from the coolant bottle plug the fittings quickly with a rubber or silicone plug.
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Originally Posted by Nopstnz8
(Post 4186887)
Sounds good. Thanks!
Even those small round tapered paintbrush handles will do the trick. |
I like that you put all the conclusions on the first post :icon_tup:
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Added a special warning to the first post on 4/8/2012. Something I hadn't really thought of as it didn't happen to me.
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bummer, have to bump this up.
my coolant light starts to come on during cold start ups and goes away after warmed up. I guess the float is becoming slowly less floaty. So N3H1-15-350G is the one I should get in order to fix this? How do I know its the latest and greatest version? |
Jason, no mate...
Order the complete Tank without the Pressure Cap.. N3H1-15-351G If you want the Tank and Cap..but is about $60.00 more just for a Cap.!! N3H1-15-350M I would not use the other one (N3Y1-15-351, Tank ONLY ) where you take out the internal sensor and re-use it in the new tank with the new float (N3Y1-15-351).. Use the first part number I listed, almost the cheapest and definitely the easiest way to go. |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4357069)
Jason, no mate...
Order the complete Tank without the Pressure Cap.. N3H1-15-351G If you want the Tank and Cap..but is about $60.00 more just for a Cap.!! N3H1-15-350M I would not use the other one (N3Y1-15-351, Tank ONLY ) where you take out the internal sensor and re-use it in the new tank with the new float (N3Y1-15-351).. Use the first part number I listed, almost the cheapest and definitely the easiest way to go. |
Yeah M8,
I think your Series II is like mine, made just before these few minor/major (but important updates to Coolant Bottle and P66M Manual Trans), there is actually only two iterations of Coolant Bottle that can give red light/float grief. That is those S2 RX-8's made before May 19th 2009, those S2's made after have tha latest CB. We still don't know 'if' the latest and or replacement CB FLOAT stays 'afloat' after say 4 years...time will tell. |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4357959)
Yeah M8,
I think your Series II is like mine, made just before these few minor/major (but important updates to Coolant Bottle and P66M Manual Trans), there is actually only two iterations of Coolant Bottle that can give red light/float grief. That is those S2 RX-8's made before May 19th 2009, those S2's made after have tha latest CB. We still don't know 'if' the latest and or replacement CB FLOAT stays 'afloat' after say 4 years...time will tell. Turns out I am also blind too. It was low oil level light which I forgot to check oil level and it was close to LOW. 1.5 qts below FULL. It turned on then turned off after 10-20 seconds and I drove like that for 2-3 days hopefully nothing got damaged. Stupid me forgetting checking the oil frequently. Anyways added oil and soon will be changing the oil before winter hits. |
Check your oil more often Jason.........................don't rely on the low level light!!!!!
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if it is the sensor problem, should we need to worry about engine? the temp gauge is not increasing during driving. thank u for any suggestions
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If it really is just the sensor, then there is really no reason to worry about the engine. However, you MUST check you coolant level often whether you live with the light, or unplug it.................and you MUST keep a close eye on the dummy gauge for any signs of trouble. The real issue with the dummy gauge in the car is that it's prettty much useless and by the time it moves, it's pretty much too late. If you don't catch it right away, then bad things can/will happen. Remember, that sensor just monitors the level(when not stuck), so it can only tell you that your level is low anyway.
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wait are you serious? flush the coolant every year?
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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 4357069)
Jason, no mate...
Order the complete Tank without the Pressure Cap.. N3H1-15-351G If you want the Tank and Cap..but is about $60.00 more just for a Cap.!! N3H1-15-350M I would not use the other one (N3Y1-15-351, Tank ONLY ) where you take out the internal sensor and re-use it in the new tank with the new float (N3Y1-15-351).. Use the first part number I listed, almost the cheapest and definitely the easiest way to go. Anyhow, I live in the middle of the Pacific so I like to make things 100% certain (returns are a pain from here!) so I think I am going with TANK, SUB & SENSOR (N3H1-15-351G) - $110.81 - N3H115351G which seems to be the right baby for my early 2005 auto trans base model. Please tell me if I am wrong. What I find a bit worrying is that the part number is the same as the original part number so how do you know you are getting a new one???? TIA Steve :confused: PS Oh any other recommended dealers??? (These guys took over from someone recommended in a 2011 link I followed.) They seem reputable and good on price with shipping - $134. PPS Just had a new radiator added (they discovered a leaky rad while testing a stalling engine). The guys who sold me the new rad recommended a new rad cap. Any reason why a cheapo cap from Napa would be a prob??? EG http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...695_0314024172 once again thanks in advance. I see everyone saying keep original cap but don't they wear out a bit after 65 k miles of driving??? Just a thought. (BTW about to get a new engine so just trying to get everything up to spec :-) |
What I posted is correct, the website is incorrect (part number), you need N3H1-15-351G
Tank without pressure cap.... EDIT: N3H1-13-351G is no longer available...see my next post below. |
I've been living with the low coolant light for a few months now and thankfully found this thread. I called the stealer and they want $184 (Canada) for the N3H1-15-350G which appears to be what I need according to this thread.
Does anybody know of a better place to buy or order from? Are the ones sold thru internet resellers the same? Anybody have any success stories with internet companies? |
New Coolant Bottle Update...
Just letting you guys know that Mazda (MNAO) are no longer offering the RX-8 Coolant Bottle with Sensor/Float ONLY...p/n N3H1-15-351G.
You can now only buy new the complete Coolant Bottle (with latest Sensor/Float) including the Pressure Cap for $60 more...N3H1-15-350M, now about $160 online. So unless you can find a Dealer with N3H1-15-351G in stock then you will have to fork out another 60% $$$'s. I think Paul @ Mazmart has some 351G's left? |
broken pipe on radiator....grrr
hi i was attempting to change over the header tank and low and behold the plastic pipe going into the radiator broke off before i could remove the clip!!
do i now have to purchase a new radiator? or is there anything else that can be done? i was thinking maybe to fill the hole left, then re route the pipe to another area? would that work?? or is it defo a new radiator? as far as i can see, do i only need to remove the battery housing, and air box housing? then 4 bolts and last 2 remaining pipes? rating of 1-10 for difficulty please. or indeed any hints or tips please. |
Originally Posted by mikeywalsall
(Post 4673762)
hi i was attempting to change over the header tank and low and behold the plastic pipe going into the radiator broke off before i could remove the clip!!
do i now have to purchase a new radiator? or is there anything else that can be done? i was thinking maybe to fill the hole left, then re route the pipe to another area? would that work?? or is it defo a new radiator? as far as i can see, do i only need to remove the battery housing, and air box housing? then 4 bolts and last 2 remaining pipes? rating of 1-10 for difficulty please. or indeed any hints or tips please. |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4673764)
You and just about everyone else has done the same thing ! New rad is the only real fix unfortunately . It's not the easiest rad. to replace ..probably a 7 on the 1-10 scale for a DIY guy . But take it slow and easy and you won't have any problem .
i can get one from ebay for £63 delivered.. |
Originally Posted by mikeywalsall
(Post 4673766)
so just remove air box and battery box and 4 bolts and water pipes?
i can get one from ebay for £63 delivered.. It's quite hard to slide the new rad. back into place - that I do remember . There might be a DIY for it in the DIY section if you get stuck. |
It's not too difficult to plastic weld it back on. Someone glued one back on successfully here too.
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