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Coolant blown out, engine blown?
Tried with search, but didn't find anything for this reason.
story goes like this, i was dropping to highway and switched from 2 to 3 gear and were on about 6-7k ish rpm and puff something went wrong and the engine died.. with like a cat reflex i threw it no manual and let it to slide and stopped on the side of the road.. there was a trail of something behind me, that turned out to be coolant.. it all came out from the rightside on the motor (lookin from front) (spark plug side) towed the car to my house, tried to crank if any life but it stalls it self from cranking.. any failsafe feature or something or is sit just a blown engine? im just going to jack up the car and try to see if there is anything visible damage that i can see, and locate the point where the coolant leacked out.. if you have anything to say that could help or tip out to look for, leave a message.. if you have something to whine about or nothing smart to say.. don't say anything. Thank you all for advance :) |
Sounds like the engine is blown to me.
Like you said, jack it up and have a look at the plugs. Look for damaged plugs or cracks in the housings. Compression test if you can, I'm sure will seal the deal. |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 4221515)
Sounds like the engine is blown to me.
Like you said, jack it up and have a look at the plugs. Look for damaged plugs or cracks in the housings. Compression test if you can, I'm sure will seal the deal. just hoping for an easy way out.. but i think this is going to be my new TV Table... |
Originally Posted by Sturmgezhutz
(Post 4221516)
that i will do..
just hoping for an easy way out.. but i think this is going to be my new TV Table... If you can't see anything obvious, I might try a deflood procedure while the plugs are out. Remove fuel pump fuse Disconnect ESS sensor. With the spark plugs out, crank it over for 10 seconds (3 times) Check for coolant coming out of plug hole. Reinstall plugs, fuel pump fuse, reconnect ESS. Try and start |
got the car jacked up, but the daylight started to run out... so i didn't get so far with this problem yeat.
i did manage to pull the spark plugs out (clean, little oilish, but "clean) and pulled the start motor out (this just because it was giving me problems earlier, going to clean it for the wait of a new one) i didn't manage to find out where the coolant was leaking, but it was all over the place.. lot of it was on the engine manifold or maybe leaking from there somewhere.. when i jacked the car up it startet to leak the rest of the fluids out somewhere in the spark plug area somewhere over them... im such a newbie with rotary engines so far that i don't want to start shooting in the dark and making up possible reason.. im only good with normal engines (so far).. maybe with rotarys too in the future.. i took some photos underneath the car and will upload them somewhere (url's to be come) |
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/6.jpg
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/4.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/3.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/2.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/1.jpg does this look normal? it was really dirty and droppep out lot of "black matter", clutch dust? http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...mgezhutz/5.jpg |
it looks like out coolant seal has blown.
and only way to save it is a rebuild. Spark plug looks normal Starter looks normal (those black thing is normal, road is dirty, if u think that' Black stuff is awkard you need to see what is there inside the bell housing) |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4221773)
it looks like out coolant seal has blown.
and only way to save it is a rebuild. :( is it a big fix, or a small fix? if its the coolant seal that have blown, does it inluce full disassembly of the engine? or is it something that can be done (if you know a little what you are doing)? |
Coolant can only come out through a busted hose, cracked housing, or out the exhaust after going through the combustion process. If your engine died the way you said it did then the odds are that it is something catastrophic and you will need to rebuild the engine.
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EEEEwwwwww so sorry
:( |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4221796)
Coolant can only come out through a busted hose, cracked housing, or out the exhaust after going through the combustion process. If you engine died the way it did then the odds are that it is something catastrophic and you will need to rebuild the engine.
but i guess it's cheaper for me to buy new 50k(kilometers) driven engine than to rebuild this one. i mean if there is something catastrophic happened... (this engine was recently tested for compressions and they were almost like in a new engine) that gives some reason to rebuild this engine... but i don't know.. have to think about what to do.. and FIRST really find out what went wrong. but allready in the point that, i tried to start the engine (just so see if it turns) and when it refused to begin to start i assumed the worts option... but you always need to stay positive and willing to do something or just take the bus like every other fool. |
You need to get it properly diagnosed. Pressure testing the coolant system would be the best bet t this point.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4221818)
You need to get it properly diagnosed. Pressure testing the coolant system would be the best bet t this point.
it leaked fairly easy, so it shouldn't be a hard to find... same as a bottle with a hole in the bottom... |
It's cover by under core warranty, check with your stealer.
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty. Coolant leak lead to blown engine. Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes. Good luck~ |
Originally Posted by ShinkaEvo
(Post 4221822)
It's cover by under core warranty, check with your stealer.
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty. Coolant leak lead to blown engine. Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes. Good luck~ does these have "around the world" warranty? |
Originally Posted by ShinkaEvo
(Post 4221822)
It's cover by under core warranty, check with your stealer.
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty. Coolant leak lead to blown engine. Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes. Good luck~
Originally Posted by Sturmgezhutz
(Post 4221829)
well mine is an import from the UK to Finland..
does these have "around the world" warranty? |
Originally Posted by alnielsen
(Post 4221834)
Only the original warranty applies for areas outside of North America, sorry.
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now I'm starting to think, maybe I should become an importer of some kind for EU countries ...
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Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4221945)
now I'm starting to think, maybe I should become an importer of some kind for EU countries ...
;) |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4221945)
now I'm starting to think, maybe I should become an importer of some kind for EU countries ...
you do have to pay taxes and shit, but it's still waaaaaay more cheaper.. for example, its 50% for me to buy and ship used motor from japan to finland then to go and buy it from a store here in finland... taxrates... you wouldn't even believe how high they are here :D for example new charger / mustang etc, costs like 20-30k in US? right? here you have to pay for a 2011 charger 140 000€ so it's like 160-170 000dollars. Importing is the thing to do! |
well, theres your problem!
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...tz/cracked.jpg don't know how i missed this yesterday... the rotor housing is cracked from the center of sides.. so somebody who's familiar with rebuilds, what would this cost to fix (parts) what would there be supposedly to be broken besides the housing? rough guess, something that give me room to think about to rebuild or buy a new engine. |
the cost to replace the housing is couple hundred bux USD, that's just 1 housing
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of shit (clearance) BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500. |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4222519)
the cost to replace the housing is couple hundred bux USD, that's just 1 housing
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of shit (clearance) BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500. but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic... i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self) i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven. |
Originally Posted by Sturmgezhutz
(Post 4222535)
1000-1500usd would be cheap as hell...
but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic... i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self) i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven. I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA :naughty:. By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor. Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine. Paul. |
Originally Posted by Mazmart
(Post 4222560)
I think he was talking about the labor to remove and re-install being between $1000 to $1500 :dunno:. I hope that's what he meant :).
I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA :naughty:. By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor. Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine. Paul. i will do that! thank you :) |
Im going to see a swap motor next week and started to think, what should i be looking for in the engine?
it sits on a shipping crate, so i can look trough it as much as i want. what's the compression rates for a good engine? (he will do a compression test, to assure me that it's in a good condition) if im right there is two different types of compression tests? a precice for a rotary engine and a original, plug off, compression meter on? or something like that? i just want to look trough as much as i can, so i don't end up with a second blown engine any day soon :) |
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Originally Posted by Sturmgezhutz
(Post 4223874)
what's the compression rates for a good engine? (he will do a compression test, to assure me that it's in a good condition) if im right there is two different types of compression tests? a precice for a rotary engine and a original, plug off, compression meter on? or something like that? The acceptable compression value depends on crank rpm and to a lesser degree your current ambient atmospheric pressure. Here is the compression test calculator to normalize your value http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc Here's a link on the acceptable values and tech stuff Go directly to Post #6 for compression stuff however I feel you would benefit from reading the thread in its entirety. https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/ |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 4223937)
I believe there is only one correct way to do a compression test.
The acceptable compression value depends on crank rpm and to a lesser degree your current ambient atmospheric pressure. Here is the compression test calculator to normalize your value http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc Here's a link on the acceptable values and tech stuff Go directly to Post #6 for compression stuff however I feel you would benefit from reading the thread in its entirety. https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454 will read that thread through :) |
That engine looks like a 2006+ engine or it has the oil in the intake TSB done because I see it has the updated crankcase ventilation setup. Man that flywheel is rusty, I would worry about rust inside the housings since the engine is not sealed.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4224217)
That engine looks like a 2006+ engine or it has the oil in the intake TSB done because I see it has the updated crankcase ventilation setup. Man that flywheel is rusty, I would worry about rust inside the housings since the engine is not sealed.
My guts say not to touch that item, contact a reputable builder instead. |
didn't bought that engine in the pic's.
ordered via local import dealer a 2007 rx8 engine with 30 000miles. Tested before shipping to me. should get the new engine late this month. |
Originally Posted by bse50
(Post 4224237)
^^^ What he said, wasn't the yellow oil cap a 2004 item though?
My guts say not to touch that item, contact a reputable builder instead. |
Few things have occured after a couple weeks of a drive with the new engine.
1. engine coolant level warning light comes and goes sometimes if i drive on a highway with a steady 100km/h or more maybe just for a second or five or ten.. depends.. always goes off when i drop out to slower speeds.. Air in the system? tried to bleed it by lifting the front of the car and let it idle to warm witht the cap off. don't know did it do bleeding enough? second 2. a sensons witch or something in the clutch pedal assembly that indicated when the pedal is at the "off" position aka up. broke from the plastic housing.. what's the job for that? anything major.. will go to buy a new one as i have the time. third 3. just now the car started to lift up the revs when idling in gear.. if i run the car on idle on neutral it's ~800rpm and when i press the clutch down and but any gear on it lifts up the revs to ~1250rpm is it supposed to do that or, is the some sensor or something getting wrong info or something? havent done that before.. with the old engine.. or the new one.. well not for the first 500km |
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