Catalytic converter issues
So I took my 04 '8 to the dealership to have them check why it had a hard time starting when warm and also idling extremely low (about 500 rpm or lower, it has stalled in neutral a few times), and they said that it's due to the catalytic converter failing. I've searched on the forums a bit and I see that there is a 8yr/80k mi warranty on it, but I've only seen that for the US and not for Canada (Manitoba if you care :P). Does anyone know if I would still be covered through the emissions act for warranty?
They told me I'd need a converter and that'll run me $2000 or I have looked at some after market ones on-line, but I'm not sure with which brand to go with. Is my dealership trying to screw me by telling me to get a new one or am I still covered? Thanks for any help you can give. |
The warranty is good for 8yr/ 120 000 km's, provided you can show them records of maintenance.
Where are you located? |
The 8yr warranty is closed after 96 months from the original purchase date of the car, whether it was you or not.
If you're no longer under warranty, and don't have the money for the pricey cat, you could throw in a mid-pipe, or just pull the guts out the cat like I did... Although just a suggestion. |
Steinbach, and that's great news if it is covered :D
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Oh yeah, if anyone has any suggestions on if I should go with the official converter that my dealership is telling me to get, or an after market one (tell me which maker you would prefer/any experiences with that product).
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the exhaust temps generated by our engines will quickly burn out most aftermarket cats in only a few hundred miles. The reason the factory cat is 1500 dollars is because its able to handle the high exhaust temperatures. If your cat is failing, you should go with the "official" replacement, or a cat-less midpipe. The midpipe will still trigger a check engine code, but it will not harm your car while driving around. Also worth noting is that a midpipe is significantly cheaper than a replacement cat, the downside is that they are illegal and can be tricky to pass inspection with.
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Originally Posted by 06blackAT
(Post 4262076)
the exhaust temps generated by our engines will quickly burn out most aftermarket cats in only a few hundred miles. The reason the factory cat is 1500 dollars is because its able to handle the high exhaust temperatures. If your cat is failing, you should go with the "official" replacement, or a cat-less midpipe. The midpipe will still trigger a check engine code, but it will not harm your car while driving around. Also worth noting is that a midpipe is significantly cheaper than a replacement cat, the downside is that they are illegal and can be tricky to pass inspection with.
id like to add... either get the oem cat for 1200-2000 or get the BHR midpipe. The bhr is the only midpipe to my knowledge that does not use resonators and other midpipes resonators will be destroyed after 100-30,000 miles and the car will sound like poop(metallic honda sounding). the bhr midpipe will retain the same sound (very similar to how youre factory cat sounds). I BELIEVE... what you can do.. is get the bhr midpipe... and take youre old cat and cut it down the middle and stick it over the bhr midpipe so that if an official checks it looks like you have a cat. Though you will get a CEL when you take the cat out, so you will need a Cobb Accessport or other similar system to delete the code so you dont fail emissions. note: i dont know canadian emissions laws if you have a test to check how much gas is escaping youre exhaust, or if they just look if you have a cat and no check engine light and that is it. I do believe removing the cat on a rotary is very important. If it fails there is a high risk of damaging youre engine and nobody wants to have to pend $ for a rebuild. If you do get another oem cat make sure to keep up on youre coils plugs and wires every 30k miles, these failing will create backfires(will show up as a blinking CEL) and this will TOAST any packing you have in youre cat. Smart dealerships will tell you that you dont need to replace the coils plugs and wires until you start backfiring, but thats because they want to charge you for coils plugs and wires and the 2k cat that goes along with the backfiring. |
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 4262098)
We use one resonator that does not contain packing to blow out.
I dont mean to threadjack here, but will the addition of more resonators to a traditional midpipe (non bhr) decrease the amount of flame coming out the exhaust? I want to make huge fireballs but dont want to hear a honda engine, i want to hear an extreme weedwacker. I dont want a test pipe though, those are just loud and proud and get you pulled over alot. |
Originally Posted by EricB
(Post 4262109)
but dont want to hear a honda engine, i want to hear an extreme weedwacker.
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