car just died on the road
so i was driving into work, sitting in stop and go traffic and i notice that the car is losing power. i press the gas but it's not going. so i hit the clutch, shift to to neutral, shift back, hit the gas and it came back. drive another half mile and it happens again. do the smae thing over again. at this point i'm starting to think my clutch is going out, but if i think back on it, i dont think the revs were shooting up. i decide i better get off at the next exit and then the car just straight dies. electrical seems ok, cranks all day but it won't even come close to turning over.
thoughts? i am hoping it is the alternator and now the car is flooded, but i wonder if it's the engine. looked under the hood but didn't see any oil or anything. what do yous think of the symptoms? excuse typos etc, typing on my phone while waiting for a tow. trying to decide if it needs to go home or the dealership |
Well I really doubt its your alternator, the battery would likely be severely drained or dead therefore preventing you from cranking the engine all day.
What year is your car? Mileage? |
yea i agree.. the dash lights and stereo never skipped a beat either. just thinking of all the possibilities.
it's an 05, 57k on meter |
MMMmmm doesn't sound good.
Have you ever done the plugs and coils? Could be something simple like the eccentric shaft position sensor. Did the car throw a cel? I would tow it home first, if it was me. But I don't mind getting my hands dirty and trying to fix shit .... .... |
i have the bhr kit and new plugs on for about a month now.
didn't notice a CEL. i don't mind to figure out what's wrong but i don't want to have to pay for towing 2x if i can help it. i have a friend coming by with my stock coils to put back and take this out to the dealership i guess. |
2 things come to mind:
-Poor or hardly any compression left - CAT is dead. |
should be under warranty for both i believe.. and of course it's raining now..
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ninja jim where are you located?
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Were you having hot start issues?
If "Yes" combined with the BHR coils ... ya bad compression, new motor time. Good news is stock coils seem to work better with motors that have low compression ... so it should start. If its the cat ... well ... tow car home take cat off and put on mid pipe :) |
Bring it to the dealer then to check it if under warranty. Your symptoms sound a lot greater than what's left over to possibly check or do (reset NVRAM, KAM, clean MAF, front O2 sensor) as none of those I would think will help solve your issue if it just died like that since you replaced plugs and coils already.
Just make sure you leave not paying a dime since it's under warranty. |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 3556680)
If its the cat ... well ... tow car home take cat off and put on mid pipe :)
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Originally Posted by zoom44
(Post 3556676)
ninja jim where are you located?
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 3556680)
Were you having hot start issues?
If "Yes" combined with the BHR coils ... ya bad compression, new motor time. Good news is stock coils seem to work better with motors that have low compression ... so it should start. If its the cat ... well ... tow car home take cat off and put on mid pipe :)
Originally Posted by Vlaze
(Post 3556681)
Bring it to the dealer then to check it if under warranty. Your symptoms sound a lot greater than what's left over to possibly check or do (reset NVRAM, KAM, clean MAF, front O2 sensor) as none of those I would think will help solve your issue if it just died like that since you replaced plugs and coils already.
Just make sure you leave not paying a dime since it's under warranty.
Originally Posted by Vlaze
(Post 3556684)
Theoretically, he should be able to unbolt CAT and try to start the engine up not bothering with a mid pipe to see if it even runs even though the O2 sensor may not like that. It should at least start up if the CAT is the issue.
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Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 3556680)
Were you having hot start issues?
If "Yes" combined with the BHR coils ... ya bad compression, new motor time. Good news is stock coils seem to work better with motors that have low compression ... so it should start. If its the cat ... well ... tow car home take cat off and put on mid pipe :) welp... i'm home now. swapped the stock coils back in, and she started up on the first try. not really sure what to think here... i wonder if i do have low compression and what you stated is true that's why it started right up or probably what is more likely is i wasn't getting spark at all for some reason. i suppose i ought to have checked before swapping back, but i just wanted to get everything done before the tow truck got there. couple of noteworthy things here: 1) the yukon coils themselves i sourced myself. brackets, plug wires, harness are BHR. new NGKs installed at that point as well. i'm guessing its not the coils themselves since if one had gone bad i imagine i'd still at least be running/able to fire up. seems like there was no spark at all which brings me to 2) i grounded the kit at the ground point by the driver's side brake booster, which is i believe where it is recommended. i think my install must have been ok given that i've been driving daily for the past month, no isssues from day one. so, not sure where to go from here now.. i may just shell out for the compression test, and thinking of sending my kit over to Charles for the once over as well |
i think you had an install problem that you accidentally fixed when you re-installed the stock coils.
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@ninjajim4
Dude I really don't know what to say except that there are several threads out there (myself included) that have experienced hot start issues with the Yukon coils. Now I'm too scared to get a compression test done, somethings you just don't wanna know. <I probably do have low comp> But I've swapped coils back and forth more times than a cheap wife at an 80's key party and every time I put my stock coils back on I have no issues. This is hard to do to when you are scared shit-less to even touch the plug wires on the BHR coils. I know when I adjusted the dwell for the Yukon coils it helped With the BHR coils on the car idles fine, runs fine just the hot start. Funny enough what I do is this and it seems to help/work. When starting car in a hot start situation I crank it over for a few seconds 2-3 and if its not going to catch (you generally can tell) stop cranking. Wait for only a second or two for the starter motor to disengage and try again. 99% of the time the car will fire right up. What can I say, this what happens <dunno> <shrug> |
Originally Posted by zoom44
(Post 3556806)
i think you had an install problem that you accidentally fixed when you re-installed the stock coils.
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well i am doubtful of that.. there's not a lot going on there with the kit, and i was meticulous bc it was my first time out with the kit and the car.
i know the harness was snug on each coil because i had a b!tch of a time getting them off each one to put the stockies back. when i installed the plug wires, i made sure everything snapped on nice and crisp. ground wire was where it's recommended. that's all there is to it.. plug wires, harness, ground. not much to f up *shrug* and just fyi, i also left the plug wires plugged into the coil side, since i hear they don't come off too easy. only pulled them via the spark plug side. i snapped those in tight onto the coils and have never removed them since. and like i said.. when the kit first went in, fired right up on the first try, been driven on almost 1k mi since install with no issue. if there is something wrong with the kit or install, then my money is on either the harness or somehow something was wrong with the way it was grounded |
I WOULD SAID CHECK ENGINE COMPRESSION FIRST AT THE DEALEAR O ANY BODY WITH MAZDA SPECIAL COMPRESSION TOOL
Standard: 830 kPa {8.5 kgf·cm 2, 120 psi} [250 rpm] Minimum: 680 kPa {6.9 kgf·cm 2, 98.6 psi} [250 rpm] Standard difference in chambers: Within 150 kPa {1.5 kgf·cm 2, 21.8psi} Standard difference in rotors: Within 100 kPa {1.0 kgf·cm 2, 14.5 psi} e. Perform the same procedure for the other rotor housing. f. If the compression is at the minimum or less, or the difference in the chambers and difference in the rotors exceed the specifications, replace or overhaul.SION |
Originally Posted by wcs
(Post 3556814)
@ninjajim4
Dude I really don't know what to say except that there are several threads out there (myself included) that have experienced hot start issues with the Yukon coils. Now I'm too scared to get a compression test done, somethings you just don't wanna know. <I probably do have low comp> But I've swapped coils back and forth more times than a cheap wife at an 80's key party and every time I put my stock coils back on I have no issues. This is hard to do to when you are scared shit-less to even touch the plug wires on the BHR coils. I know when I adjusted the dwell for the Yukon coils it helped With the BHR coils on the car idles fine, runs fine just the hot start. Funny enough what I do is this and it seems to help/work. When starting car in a hot start situation I crank it over for a few seconds 2-3 and if its not going to catch (you generally can tell) stop cranking. Wait for only a second or two for the starter motor to disengage and try again. 99% of the time the car will fire right up. What can I say, this what happens <dunno> <shrug> |
No, that I have not had happen......
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Thanks for checking in Charles
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 3558344)
If you suspect a BHR harness issue, you can send it back to me for inspection/replacement as necessary (although it is not likely to require either). You may also feel free to send the spark plug wires back so I can install new coil-end terminals on them, for free. I am pretty sure the brackets are not the culprit, so we can skip that. This only leaves three more concerns;
my biggest regret is that i didn't take the time to do a spark test on the spot. even if i put the kit back on and it sparks, which I have the feeling will happen, it won't tell me anything about the state that it was in.
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 3558344)
1) The coils, themselves. If you bought them on E-Bay, there are several shady sellers who get their coils from junkyards and clean them up or spray-paint them and sell them. Several DIY types around here have learned that lesson, firsthand, and they have since regretted it. This is why BHR backs ALL our products up with the warranty policies that we do.
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 3558344)
2) You may have a loss of power due to compression issues and, with 50K+ miles on a 2005 model, I would have it checked regardless.
I also wonder now if people just have the hot start issue, and during the time it takes to put the stock coils back, the temp has gone down enough to start, and would start just as well with the Yukon coils, if they had just gone inside and had a beer instead for the same amount of time. I don't know if this addresses why the motor died WHILE it was running though.
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 3558344)
3) Your factory coils may have been weak since as early as 25K miles and your catalytic converter may have been working too hard since then. A bad cat will also cause the problems you are experiencing.
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Originally Posted by ninjajim4
(Post 3558381)
so would a bad cat cause no start issues as well? and if that's the case, would it be remedied by stock coils handling the problem better than Yukon coils? I think i'll unbolt have a lil peak in there.
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Originally Posted by zoom44
(Post 3558517)
no air out , no air in
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no im saying if the cat is clogged and the air cant get out then you cant get any new air in.
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Originally Posted by zoom44
(Post 3558698)
no im saying if the cat is clogged and the air cant get out then you cant get any new air in.
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