Car hesitates, lose of power at 4k-6k RPM
 

I have had a custom intake in the car now for a few months and haven't had any problems. Recently I got antsy and moved the MAF sensor further back near the throttle body. I had it close to the cone and only 1 screw was holding it in place. Now I have both screws in and everything is sealed perfectly but my car is losing power at around 4,000 RPMs on some pulls. Sometimes it works fine, other times it doesnt.. I can feel the power being there but its not doing anything. Like there is a leak somewhere but I'm unsure where it is. It's been doing this for 3 days now and I'm very hesitant to drive her. Any ideas guys? I could really use the help. I'm still learning everything there is to know about this car. I've searched but all I find is crap talking about a new engine. I'd appreciate the help guys. Thanks

How many miles on the coils and plugs?

I bought the car at 27,000 miles and only had her for 3 months. Check engine light actually just came on about an hour ago while I drove her through the parking lot.

1st... quit messing with the MAF, it can be picky with the position and changes to the pipe's ID.
2nd... Moving the MAF near the throttle body might create reversion issues because of the valve and that'll play havoc with the MAF readings.
3rd... Why try to customize the intake? You will not do better than what Mazda has already done.
My suggestion is to revert back to the way it was and I'm willing to bet your car will run better.

If you absolutely NEED to have a different intake, look into Racing Beat (with their Revi duct) or
AEM).
They will not give you noticeable performance gains, just a different sound.

I made the intake when I first got the car. I showed someone a picture and they suggested that I move the MAF further back. I listened because he knew more about this car then I did and when I did that... it screwed everything up. I'm looking to buy an AEM now and I'm reverting back to the stock tomorrow morning when Its sunny out.

I think that is a great idea ClearVue.
And like i said above, moving it closer to the throttle body can be bad because the airflow will have a "cyclone effect" near it.
Not sure how close you can be before this reversion starts to interfere with MAF readings.

As long as this is the reason for the check engine light on right now and the hesitation that I've been experiencing. I don't want it to be anything different. I'll tell you how that goes tomorrow. Thanks for the help man

return to stock.

if it still does it, figure out if you are low on gas. top it off, see if it still does it. (possible fuel deliver failure)

have you ever flooded it. (possible cat failure)

But here the culprit is probably maf sensor, might wanna take a look at the plugs too afterward.

Stock airbox is back on the car but my car is running extremely rich right now. Stalls at redlights

Bye Bye motor. I am on my third and both previous motors began stalling before they lost compression.