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Brake bleed problem

Old 12-11-2017, 10:44 AM
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Brake bleed problem

I'm having a problem with my brake system and it's got me baffled. I replaced the two back Brake calipers and new pads all 4 wheels. I then proceeded to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor ( takes a little resistance) after I bleed the Front right caliper.
The 3 other corners bleed fine no air bubbles. The right front has constant air bubbles no matter how many times I pump the pedal. I checked the line no leaks. I replaced the flex hose to the brake caliper a few months ago with a SS line so that should not be a problem.
The only other cause could be the ABS. Has anyone had a similar problem and can I by-pass the ABS?
Old 12-11-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jayh
I'm having a problem with my brake system and it's got me baffled. I replaced the two back Brake calipers and new pads all 4 wheels. I then proceeded to bleed the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor ( takes a little resistance) after I bleed the Front right caliper.
The 3 other corners bleed fine no air bubbles. The right front has constant air bubbles no matter how many times I pump the pedal. I checked the line no leaks. I replaced the flex hose to the brake caliper a few months ago with a SS line so that should not be a problem.
The only other cause could be the ABS. Has anyone had a similar problem and can I by-pass the ABS?
Just because it's new doesn't mean it can't be a problem.
I'd retrace everything done recently, be sure all the washers are in place correctly, no debris on the mating surfaces.
If you still have the old rubber line, maybe put it back on to see if the new line is faulty.
Old 12-26-2017, 11:28 AM
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Ok checked every fitting and checked for fluid nothing. Bleed the system 4 times. I don't think it is a leak is causing the problem. I apply slight pressure to pedal and it will go to the floor. I think it could be one of two things the master or ABS unit.
Is there any way to check which part is faulty?
Old 12-26-2017, 01:17 PM
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I’ve had this issue before. If you let too much fluid drain out during the swap it seems to happen. I’d say start at the master (earlier models are easier due to the MC bleed screw that was deleted and the MC design changed on later versions, 2006+ I think) and bleed it all in entirety, then reassess.

I keep small rubber stoppers now and disconnect where it can used first to avoid the lines from draining. It makes life much easier that way. The more fluid that gets out and the more air that gets in then the harder it’ll be to get it all cleared again.


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Last edited by TeamRX8; 12-26-2017 at 01:21 PM.
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