Before I start dropping coin and hanging parts.......
 

Perhaps someone else has experienced the following, so here are the stats:
2005 - 81,000 mile original owner 6 speed
Plugs - 3,000 miles – I replaced these thinking this was potentially the cause after a misfire code upon the first time the engine cut out under WOT
Coils and wires 14,000 miles – 80% highway miles cruising at 4,000 RPM’s
Removed, cleaned SSV and replaced SSV switch 5,000 miles ago
Original fuel pump
Compression test 10,000 miles ago and passed with flying colors
I have no codes to read and the CEL has not come on for 3,000 miles

Without using the AC the car seams normal
With the AC on equals engine idle rough, sometimes drops to 750 and the car shutters/shakes at an idle
Exhaust tone changes to raspy chug
From a stop to wide open throttle, engine sometimes cuts completely out, drops as though it stalls, push clutch in and it idles, release clutch and resume driving normally, engine functions properly
Engine seems very sluggish with AC on, like I am pulling a trailer – it is more sluggish than normal with the AC on!

I originally thought it was my fuel pump, but I have tested hard left circles with an 1/8th of a tank and all functions properly. However, I did not have the AC on when I was performing this test. I have been holding out on purchasing the new BHR fuel pump to make sure that it will resolve my issues and I am beginning to think it is not the fuel pump. Any feedback on were to start will be very much appreciated.

Motor Mounts

I agree the motor mounts are aged and most likely part of the shutter and shake, but do they cause the engine/driveability issues that I have outlined?

HESITATION / IDLE VIBRATION DUE TO CRACKED ENGINE MOUNT

Some vehicles may experience the following symptoms.
- On manual transmission vehicles, when decelerating in 3rd gear with engine speed less than 3,000 RPM at
approximately 30 MPH (50km/h), then quickly depressing the accelerator pedal again, a hesitation may
occur. This symptom can only be observed in this engine speed and vehicle speed range.

Depending on the driving condition or engine condition, the RH side engine mount rubber may deform. As a
result, the RH side engine mount can crack. As a mass production change, the material of the engine mount
rubber has been changed. To provide durability of the replaced RH engine mount, an engine bracket with insulator
for RH side has been established together with modified engine mount for the LH side.
Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following procedure. Replace the
RH engine mount and modified RH engine bracket together with the LH engine mount.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...21-06-1559.pdf

Thanks invasion08 for your help!

I have read this TSB and had a dealer check my mounts about 10,000 miles ago and the mounts checked good. I understand that they may be cracked/worn now as well. The symptom for this TSB is different than the symptom I am experiencing. I am not experiencing a hesitation, I am experiencing a violet stall like floss your teeth with the steering wheel and hope you don’t get rear ended, push the clutch in and the engine is idling.
Also, the engine tone turns to a raspy chug throughout the entire RPM range all most like it is misfiring with the AC on.

You have done all that work and not clean the MAF?

"it is more sluggish than normal "

If its sluggish, could be a CAT going.

Thanks Razz1,
No, actually I have not cleaned the MAF. I even have a drop in K&N filter that I have cleaned and oiled several times. I even removed the plastic pieces in the air box recently, left the screen in. I have worked all around the MAF! I believe your suggestion is spot on and yes I should have done it before now! It is the first thing I will do when I get home this weekend!

Smooth Idle, Quicker throttle response, more power with the AC on, No cutting out and feels as stronger as the day I bought it home with 15 miles on it!
The MAF sensor looked like a small animals nut sack, oil, film and had hair growing on it! It was bad and cleaning it has made a huge improvement!
Thanks!

^.........watch how much you oil that air filter, that is more than likely where it came from.

If anyone has not cleaned your MAF, I highly recommend doing so with a can of MAF cleaner. I cannot believe the difference it has made. The car is so much easier to get going from a stop and feels so much stronger. My wife even enjoys driving it again, she had started calling the manual shifting lever a boat oar. It required constant shifting to get it around town and now it is smooth as silk!

Compression test was 10,000 miles ago it's possible a seal could be on the way out now. Sorry :(

I love it when people post a suggestion in a thread when the solution has already been found. :lol:

link? Just crc maf cleaner? A brush or anything?

I used a couple Qtips lightly over the sensor. The CRC cleaner does a great job on its own without the Qtip!