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Alternator Plastic Cover/hose melted

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Old 10-16-2017, 10:55 PM
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Seems to be fully intact and fairly newish looking. Might be off the engine I gave to OD way back when. Let me know where it needs to be sent to.


Old 10-17-2017, 07:47 AM
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It's a thing of beauty!

Thanks Team .. sent PM
Old 11-18-2017, 10:39 AM
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I would like to thank TeamRX8 for providing the section of wiring harness required for this repair.
Cheers man I really appreciate it.

I'm beginning repairs today after being away in Grenada on vacation and of course who can't have a family crisis while they are away, so now that's all out of the way ...
Time to get my hands dirty now.
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Old 11-23-2017, 06:20 PM
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No BFD really. I can relate otherwise. Shouldn’t be too difficult to swap out, but praying that it doesn’t turn into another crisis for you, lol.
Old 11-26-2017, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Seems to be fully intact and fairly newish looking. Might be off the engine I gave to OD way back when. Let me know where it needs to be sent to.


Hi,
Is this a pic of the main wire harness? Would you have a part number for it?
Dealer says mine has got a 3 volt drop between the battery and the SP rack and he can not diagnose and fix my PS problem till I replace it.
Any help in finding one would be appreciated.
Regards
Old 12-04-2017, 07:10 PM
  #31  
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That’s the starter, eps, and main power harness

F151-67-070H

Better to find a good used one. You gonna get sexually assaulted buying that from a stealership
Old 02-26-2018, 04:13 PM
  #32  
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Need some help asap

So this same exact thing has happened to me back in mid November I started to smell a unrecognizable smell coming through the vents as I was pullling into my neighborhood and then everything went haywire. My power steering locked up all dashboard lights came on and car came to a slow crawl thankfully I was able to park safely at my house, but I haven’t driven it sense. I took a look under the hood and saw my cap was melted onto my b+ terminal bolt. I took a look at my wire that was connected to my alternator boldnand it was fried pretty bad for about 4 inches down the wire. Now coming to be trying to remove the wire and cleaning everything the b+ bolt snapped and I had to replace my alternator so I now have a brand new alternator. After the replace and putting some electrical tape on the wire the car still had no power so it required a jump but the jump only worked with the cables still attached once cables were removed car lost power immediately. Now let me say I have a brand new battery not even 3 months old at the time in December. So I took the battery up to advance auto to get a recharge and come back and the electronics are up and running but the car still won’t turn over. Now I’m at the point of thinking that wire that attaches to the b+ terminal is completely fried and needs to be replaced. I was going to try doing a splice but I’m worrried about problems later on so I’m taking the option of taking it into a shop but I wanted so suggestions from someone. Especially if that wire does require me to replace the whole engine harness. If so I am located in Atlanta if anyone knows any reputable shops to do this job and probably how much I am looking at for a full repair. I’m thinking of getting a used part if I can find a mechanic to add a used part on for me. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help
Old 06-26-2018, 11:09 PM
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Boy do I have a story for you guys

Okay boys. Let me start by saying that I have been lurking on this forum for the better part of 4 years. And after all my lurking, I made an account for the sole purpose of thanking RedDream. I've been the proud owner of an 09 rx8 gt for a little more than 4 years and in that time span I've had to tow my car to Mazda twice (there are no rotary places in ct that I know of so Mazda it is i guess) one for a motor swap (my fault, ran it into a lake, well it was a really big puddle, but slammed rx8 and aem cold air intake = ouch town for my wallet, and second was to replace to PCM because it shorted, steering rack wire was grounding out). Both trips happened last year and cost a total of a lot of fawking money >.< (Although, insurance paid for most of the motor swap). So you can imagine how sad, distraught, angry etc I was when I was driving my 8 to work this afternoon and smelled something burning. I immediately turned it off and popped the hood and found that the some of the plastic cover had melted and was smoking. (It was a little smoke not like "omg my car is going to burst into flames" although, now that i think about it, it probably would have if i didn't kill it when I did.) So all through work I am panicking. Literally. I start thinking about how long its going to take Mazda to get to her now since I would have had to tow it and have her sit outside outside their garage, the money and I lost my mind. I ask my girlfriend to come get my lifeless carcass from work and she does her best to cheer me up (wonderful woman I found me :P) and I go to take my **** of grievance and decide to google when my issue when I happened across this thread and RedDream's comment about the loose bolt. Ran out of the bathroom (after I finished of course) drove my other car to my jobs parking lot and I test fit the 12mm socket on the nut to make sure it wouldn't strip when I applied some and force and it spun. IT WAS FINGER LOOSE I tighten it and start her up and low and behold, no more smoke, no more melt, NO MORE HOT! This all happened within the last 20 minutes.
If you're still reading at this point, thank you for letting me vent my emotions it was definitely one hell of a roller coaster, but now I have questions
1) How do these nuts get loose? (even if you tell me its a one time deal, my paranoid self will check it every time I get in and out of the car, just curious)
2) Should I still take her to a shop and have them check her out to make sure the electrical system is okay and ? (Like I said before, I've had electrical issues before and would prefer not to replace the PCM for a second time)

Thanks for any help !
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