Will Air in the Cooling system affect pressure/coolant temp ?
 

Same as topic.

reason I ask is that, I drain & flush my coolant couple days ago, after that, it seems that my pressure cap is not holding any pressure. (I have 2 caps, tried both, nothing, and I just brought another cap, still same thing(I will return it))

Cuz if it does, after the car has warm up, if you open the cap you should hear some pressure escaping sound, right ? but now, I dont have any. and when I drive around, if I keep my rev about 6K for too long, the water temp will start going up to 102 celsius and it wont come down until I slow down. something of which never happened to me before.

Even when I just drive around the streets, the temp sometimes will go as high as 97 celsius. most likely will stay above 90. never happen before.

I did some *minor* visual check, no signs of coolant leak so far. I can take my intake & stuff out tomorrow for a complete check. but for now I just wanna know, if I did not bleed my system correctly(still air in there somewhere), will it cause the issue Im having ? (Like the system seems to have no pressure, open cap when hot nothing came out. Higher than usual temp when high revving for long time)

Or might have something to do with Coolant ? I used to use Prestone 50/50 then I add some extra Distilled water to get it to around 45/60. Now I use 100% Peak coolant with Distilled water to about the same ratio.

your car is going to explode. SLOWLY....back away from the Vehicle with your HANDS UP. ;)


Sorry, long day. I'm bored...

Now, I am losing more hair than ever ... too stressful.

I need answers !!!!!!

Im going to Loan-A-Tool at Autozone tomorrow to test the pressure.

hope nothing is leaking.

Whats celsius??, I dont understand this celsius? j/k

I'd try bleeding air again, maybe it'll fix itself?

because I always get things right the second time;)

hope it aint leaking...

Park the car on the steepest incline you can find, let it cool off, top the reservoir, close the cap and run the car up to 3500 RPM until it is warm.
Let it cool and repeat.

Oh, the answer to your question is "yes".

I highly doubt its leaking, cuz everything works perfectly fine UNTIL I decided to flush my coolant.

Thats what Im thinking.

Gay, I remember a year ago I did that at some place like 4 blocks away. When I was keeping my engine at 3.2~K, people walk by look at me like Im crazy or something.

I will try that tomorrow. Its better than going to Autozone (freaking far)

I just replaced my system with Evans utilizing only 2 gallons of NPG -R and 2 gallons of NPG prep (to remove water).. i bleed the system by jack up front of the car.. make a tube that come out from the resevoir in a seal manner and extend up vertically creating a higher point for the air to escape add a used a soft drink container on top of the tube upside down as a funnel to add additional coolant in.. but the system is not taking anymore coolant strangely..

i drained my system from the engine block (above oil pan) and the plastic screw underneath radiator. let it sit for like 30 mins.. seal them both again.. then pour two gallons of Evans prep in.. run the car hot until thermstat opens up together with heater on full blast... let the cool a bit.. then drain the prep.. seal and refill with Evans -R.. only manage to get two gallons in.. while refilling and the car on with full heater..

after few days.. did the bleeding i mentioned above.. and still the resevoir is still little bit above the full mark.. and not needing any extra coolant go in..

the result ? idle in traffic around 80 degrees celsius.. if extended it will slowly crawl up to 90 - 100 .. before.. it shoots up to 100 celsius easily so.. in terms of idling.. there are some improvement.. pending on next track day

No Evans For Rotaries!
 

If your rotary is driven hard and or especially tracked, you should avoid using Evans or Propylene Glycol. Straight distilled water with some water wetter would be an excellent choice unless you are going to see freezing temps.

We run Propylene Glycol in the owner's RX3 because it get's driven once or twice every 2 to 3 years. We've also done testing in endurance races with it in some of our race cars (Not ideal).

Paul.

thanks for your advise, but is there any scientific reason why PG based is not good as a coolant ? I read many ppl use them in FDs for track use, this aviation place that sells it locally uses it for their aeroplanes...

Evans is great for storing antiques. It will not cause rusting and will preserve the hoses. Anhydrous Propylene glycol is missing one important ingredient : WATER!

The density of the water and it's ability to take that heat away is unsurpassed. You do not want to increase the boiling point to the levels that PG provides. Even though you aren't boiling, you're still operating higher than the aluminum housings enjoy. Our testing with this was extensive. When we finally got an engine to run a 24 hour on PG it's parts were in bad shape (Rotor housing shrinkage). We are accustomed to using those motors for 3 to 4 times that period easily.

People use this in piston engines all the time. We don't generally recommend it for rotaries.

Paul.

i guess the question would be.. while having the PG stuff running at safe temperature and eliminating the localize heating would the engine NOT generate localize hot spots at that "safe temp" .. therefore a normal coolant would be sufficient.

Thanks for your reply, I will watch my temperature at my next track day. Would you say something like 110C water and 120C oil would be a safe deal for the Renesis's seals etc, or whats your recommendation ?

110 Celsius Water temp is pretty close to Engine death Temp (Engine death should be around 116 or 7 ?? it should be around there)

I wouldnt stay around 110 for too long.

Time to bleed the system. Ciao !

116°C isn't engine death, its just a bad idea and you shouldn't be in any significant load at that temp.
126°C is potentially engine death.

you guys and your Celcius...

I dont remember the exact temp, oh well. close enough.

I just came back from bleeding my crap, it looks like I had too much coolant in the overflow tank, I suck some out just before, Gonna try to bleed it again later.

Celsius pwnz j00z !

110 C...that's 230 degrees. Not sure where engine death comes in, but that's not health promoting. If you have air in your system, then you've got local spots where the temperature is even higher. Definitely not good. IMHO, a real concern even if the nominal water temp was down where it should be. Hope your bleeding efforts were successful.

Head down to your local Mazda dealer and buy a couple of jugs of the recommended FL22. Then, once you have that in and bled, you won't have to worry about this for another 10 years.

Ken

Ok, no more guessing guys/gals (if any girl actually read this ...)

I found the problem.

Its not coolant mixture issue, its not coolant brand issue, its not bleeding issue.

The problem is on the coolant overflow bottle, itself !

There are 2 little tabs to hold the Radiator Cap on top of the bottle, one of the little tab "broke". no wonder it never hold pressure.

Just made appointment with dealership, gonna bring it in tomorrow. Guess no zoom zoom for me for this weekend. Gay :(

that new.

good job.

beers :beer:

Sorry for the OT nycgps...Paul, I dont understand this. All recorded temps I have seen with Evans shows that temps are ALWAYS lower. Both street and on the track. Is this affect on housing from the PG in general? It cant be from higher temps.

Cheers

Andrew

Car is in dealership now.

When I told them about the bottle, first thing he asked me was "Were you in an accident?" I was like *wtf?* , well I said "Of course not"

They will do the MSP16, bye bye to my Racing Beat Flash I guess -_-

I need to know something about the CAT, I'll ask Kevin directly -_-

i found after my track weekend a bit of a weep out of the coolant overflow. my guess is the cap is going. and at 90k miles i am ok with that..

keep us up to date.. :)

beers :beer:

I didnt even know until yesterday at like 6pm.

After the *bleeding* the car temp *seems* to be able to go back to normal. its staying at 85-87 when idle. but As soon as I move, it jumps to at least 90 celsius.

So I got off my car and recheck everything. then when I take the cap out, still no pressure, so I start checking out the coolant bottle again, and finally I saw one of the little tab(there is 2 to hold the cap in place) has a slight bend, I push it, and it broke off (yikes)

I dont know, lets hope that they can fix my car today, cuz it sounds like the dealership has the bottle in stock.

P.S. : I want them to fix it asap because ... my rental is a fuxking piece of shit Kia Sportage .... my god. I was going back home at around 50-60 mph, that piece of crap is like its about to roll over or something ... forget about the power it does not exist at all ... damn KIA ...

Gay, dealership said it will not be covered under warranty (!!!!)

It only covers in manufacture defect ? I was like dude, I didnt even do anything to it, just regular maintenance and it broke, isnt that Manufacture defect already ? not like this bottle consider as a *wear* item anyway. but he still said no ...

No choice now, instead of waiting for another appointment, ordered my bottle from Paul (thumbs up), I will not be able to drive my car for these few days, I mean I can but I dont want to keep watching the Temp. Gauge and pray that it will not overheat.

oh well. :(

The claim made from PG is not that it lowers engine temps. What we've seen is an increase in temps (Without boiling). Some engines don't mind and may even like this, not rotaries. We attempt to do the opposite (To some degree) of what Evans does. We attempt to control our operating temps to what we consider optimum. Mazda Maniac pointed out some criteria in temps (Under load, high rpm etc). We don't like to see more than 195degF outlet temps on track or about 180 in. We even prefer 20deg cooler than that if possible. It's hard to do that with a factory Mazda thermostat.
Some would judge success on track as not puking their coolant all over the ground when racing, we like to see what a motor looks like over the course of time under arduous conditions.

Paul.