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Oil flow is NOT the only thing that lubricates as the Ferrari article states.
There are all kinds of boundary lube chemicals like ZincDP as anti-wear additives.
LOOKatme and the article know just enough to be dangerous.
I've sold and tested all kinds of motor and industrial oils, and read BITOG oil analysis.
Honda, Toyota, and some others get by with 0w20, but I've personally known many Chevy PU and Suburban owners to get 500k miles on 15w40.
Ferrari's and some other super engines even use 10w60 to get the right 12-14cst at 100c+.
If you read years of RX8club you might have noticed the stationary gear bearing wear problem.
Those gears need something better than 8ct at 100c to take out the large gear slop for the bearing wear.
Many people have come to like the 0w40 or 5w40 weights for RX8 and the European oils of those weights happens to be made for the "run hot on purpose" German cars.
I was fuel distributor and bought into the thinner works until I crunched a few Chevy engines on 10w30. I should have stuck with the 15w40 they ran before.
These are engines without much cold startup, and run for hours.
Damn, it's a good thing you do short change intervals.
This looks like a new oil sample, and oil vis of 7.5 at 100 c looks like right for this very thin oil. If you want engine to last the best, I'd run a 0w40 or 5w40.
Mobil 1 0w40 actually is about same vis as Castrol 0w30, so just read some BITOG lab results and get oil thats 12-14 cst at 100c.
I got Mobil 1 for $25 and $12 rebate twice over a year period.
When I was in Germany to pick up my BMW X1, I saw Mobil 1 0w40 for aout $100/jug.
Americans have dirt cheap oil; splurge on a great synthetic from major company.
Just got this back from Blackstone. I've been running LiquiMoly for the last 4 years with longer intervals than your average bear. 7000km = 4350 miles. Seems like it's still doing it's job. I did less track time on this oil than the previous 2.
Interesting that the oil retained more moly than previous samples. Boron is high, and I don't know much about boron-based additives, but it sounds like this oil was not yet depleted of additives when drained. The previous samples were pretty depleted, probably thanks to the extra race time. That may also be why the older samples had more ablated aluminium and lead.
Car has a Sohn adapter, so none of this is going into the combustion chamber.
Everyone knows my preference - high frequency of oil changes. I use WalMart SuperTech Conventional 5W20 historically now switched to SuperTech Conventional 5W30. Mine is made by Valvoline. I've posted oil analyses in past pages. I do not have a SOHN adapter on my S2 but believe that frequent (1000 mile interval) oil changes [keep the injected oil clean] will help me extend the engine life.
Fuel injectors need to be fixed, and in meantime run I'd run a 5w50 or at least strong 0w40 oil.
I'm cheap so I'd put injector cleaner like Techron in gas with a 1 oz per gallon gas of FD 4 2 cycle oil with pib to maybe clean injector up.
Will do
Could it be that my car gets daily drive of 2x1.5 miles and is only just fully warm when i switch off so esentially its never at full optemp and running rich?
Will do
Could it be that my car gets daily drive of 2x1.5 miles and is only just fully warm when i switch off so esentially its never at full optemp and running rich?
That'll do it. Might want to get a bicycle at that point
Will do
Could it be that my car gets daily drive of 2x1.5 miles and is only just fully warm when i switch off so esentially its never at full optemp and running rich?
You live in a perfect area for windy road drives.
I don't drive mine much either, but once used it gets at least 10 miles just for fun.
Here is one for my S2 I did last September with Wear Check.
Have used Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional 5W-20. Not seeing much wear in my oil, though the Phosphorus level is getting a bit low, so I suppose 5000 km/3000 mi is a good change interval.
The engine is fine with it. The cat probably won't be if you don't have an OMP (diesel oils typically have higher zinc dithiodiphosphate content and it is a strong catalyst poison).
^No Sohn for us S2 folks, so yeah, zinc could be a concern unless you run catless.
Also, why do you run synthetic when you change that often anyway? That's like throwing money away. If you change every 1000(right?) miles, may as well buy some cheap conventional and some beers with the money you save.
That's what I'm doing as a LT test case, I'm fine with 1000 mi OCI with good ole' Wally World SuperTECH 5W30. I recently switched to 5W30 - same great price, sweet oil viscosity increase. And yes I buy fine cigars and liquor with the profits normally thrown away to the major oil companies.
Problem with long OCIs... takes a while to collect multiple samples of data. The sample was taken in December, but it took me this long to ship it out. Looks like LiquiMoly is still kicking strong after 8500km. I didn't do much track time at all last year though. Flying is way ahead in smiles/dollar.
12-16-2016, 07:09 PM
