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May have jumped the gun on this but I just ordered this piece for the S2 shifter. Since reverse is on the left now this piece from the S1 transmission won't keep you from going into reverse accidentally it seems. Though about just mounting it upside down which would put that "stopper" tab on the correct side (left) but there's a gasket there between the transmission and the piece.
The part was only $20 so I figured I'd try it. Part #P610-17-449A
NO, NO, NO - absolutely not!!! You need the S2 part, which while being plastic is very hard. The key factor is it has raised stops on it that combined with the plate on the S2 shifter shaft effectively make it like function like the Race Roots synchro saver.
DO NOT USE THE S1 PART!!!
The info is in this thread even, so stop being noobish
Everything is detailed here, but spread out in bits and pieces
1. S2 trans with reverse and neutral switches.
2. S2 shifter required, different than S1.
3. S2 shift **** required, shift pattern different than S1
4. Reverse and neutral switch connection plugs are different from S1 and requure adaptation. Simple blade connectors are sufficient.
5. S2 throw-out bearing (??? Not sure, I installed a racing clutch with race TO bearing)
6. S2 motor end plate - possibly optional, but highly recommended; trans will have open gaps between engine, rocks/debris can get into bellhousing/clutch area
7. (2) quarts of 70W90 GL4 transmission oil (I recommend Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS) and fluid transfer pump
8. Tools, equipment, knowledge, etc. to R&R transmission in an RX8
Other things to consider whenever you pull/install a transmission
A. Clutch & flywheel mileage/condition
B. Throw-out bearing condition - usually a good idea to replace regardless
C. Pilot bearing & seal
D. Front input shaft housing/seal wear condition (TO bearing slides on it)
E. Rear trans/driveshaft seal
F. Shifter plastic shift fork bushing on trans engagement end - gets sloppy with wear
.
Whoops, I remember looking at that pic but I guess it didn't register until I was actually looking at the thing. Maybe add that to the list of things needed for the swap unless you buy the whole S2 shifter assembly which includes that piece .
I would think that NC Miata 6 spd shifter would also work, no? Should be plenty of those around ...
To close this out, I got myself an S2 trans and I happen to have an NC shift lever (and 6 speed trans) lying around. The basic steel-rod-with-spheres-on-it part of the shifter drops in and can change gears. All the other parts don't fit right. There's a couple of collars that fit into the shifter turret to hold the upper joint down and those are too small, and the plastic hold-down plate is too big. The shifter turrets look similar inside (more similar than comparing S1 to S2), but are different shapes and sizes. I'll try to update again with a photo when I get around to buying an S2 shifter.
To close this out, I got myself an S2 trans and I happen to have an NC shift lever (and 6 speed trans) lying around. The basic steel-rod-with-spheres-on-it part of the shifter drops in and can change gears. All the other parts don't fit right. There's a couple of collars that fit into the shifter turret to hold the upper joint down and those are too small, and the plastic hold-down plate is too big. The shifter turrets look similar inside (more similar than comparing S1 to S2), but are different shapes and sizes. I'll try to update again with a photo when I get around to buying an S2 shifter.
We figured out that it was different several posts later, but I'll go back and edit that comment so that it won't confuse anyone
We figured out that it was different several posts later, but I'll go back and edit that comment so that it won't confuse anyone
Yeah, I got that. I'm just saying that I was able to confirm it with hardware rather than with line drawings, and that the metal shift lever part of it does work, but every other part does not.
Hmmm mine has 115k kilometers, I think, even with those sort of k's do I really need to change them ? The gearbox is really clean inside the bell housing, the whole gearbox is actually pretty clean.
Hello all. I apologize if this is in the wrong place but I've searched for a month now and can't fully diagnose my issues. I recently did the described s1 to s2 swap. As of now I have clutch pressure when it's not running. Once I start it I loose the pressure. I pm up the clutch and regain it. As soon as I touch the gas I hear throw out bearing squeal and loose all clutch pressure. I have replaced and bleed the intire hydrolic system and adjusted the clutch pedal adjustments to multiple positions to try to solve this lroble. I'm using the exedy 10813 clutch kit. Thank you in advance.
Hello all. I apologize if this is in the wrong place but I've searched for a month now and can't fully diagnose my issues. I recently did the described s1 to s2 swap. As of now I have clutch pressure when it's not running. Once I start it I loose the pressure. I pm up the clutch and regain it. As soon as I touch the gas I hear throw out bearing squeal and loose all clutch pressure. I have replaced and bleed the intire hydrolic system and adjusted the clutch pedal adjustments to multiple positions to try to solve this lroble. I'm using the exedy 10813 clutch kit. Thank you in advance.
I have read a lot about the stage 1 clutch kits having issues. sounds like you have that issue. I can't remember the exact reason but it's some tolerance or dimension which makes it not function.
I swapped to a series 2 trans with an exedy OEM clutch and a S2 throw out bearing and it works great. Perhaps you need to swap that stage 1 clutch out.....
I have read about the exedy stage one clutch as well. I have the upgraded part number, not the one that had the problems, but that doesn't mean the actually fixed it or that I'm not having the same problem anyway. I was personally leaning towards this possibility myself before I asked. I just didn't want to steer anybody.
I think once I see some above freezing temps I'll reinstall the old stock clutch and pressure plate. It looked to be in decent shape yet and that will at least remove one of the things that changed.
04-29-2015, 10:33 PM
Series 1 vs. series 2 gearbox
