They told me why I couldn't get past 6krpm
I take my car to the dealer today in response to what I simply call limp mode. THe car was hitting a wall at 6k rpm and under load would buck around 4k, no matter what gear.
I take the car in, they have it for a few hours, and this is what they tell/yell at me for after they pulled everything in the computer: 1- I've hit the rev-limiter a few times, tsk tsk tsk 2- you activate the dsc button for more than 5 seconds- as in shutting down the dsc/tcs. He tells me that this causes the car to throw fault codes if done in excess and puts the car in "default" He then proceeds to tell me that the system is there to help me and there's no way I should disengage it unless I'm racing through a slalom course or "showing off". The only time I should disengage the system is to bring the car to the "hairy edge" which mazda encourages (I read into this statement, auto-x is cool with mazda). blah blah blah does this jive with anyone else's experience? the car is back to normal after they've pulled the codes and such. edit- oh yea, and when I told him the idea of the coils- he said that it's almost impossible to ruin those :rolleyes: |
daily basis
i hit the rev limiter on a daily basis. dsc/tsc off every time i drive the car. im used to rwd cars w/o the dsc/tsc. there are numerous threads on limp mode, i don't remember if those two reasons caused it (highly doubt it).
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it's bullshit. who DOESN'T hit the redline?? he presumes that because you're bringing it in as it "only" goes to 6k that you want the rest of it.
they've fucked smething up and are trying to cover for it. |
that makes that dealer bull shiter OF THE (MONTH)
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did you direct him to do a search for burnt coils here? what were the codes they found? BS of the month is a tough award this month
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jeez, I hit redline practically on every shift....I hope my dealer doesn't run a check up on my car's computer...
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Ahhhhhhchoooo, excuse me please, I am alergic to BS.
I turn the DSC/TC off right after I start the engine. I also am used to driving a real wheel drive car without it. Occasionally if I am going to drive in really bad rain, I might leave it on. My hearing is not the best in the world and I can't hear whiney women or the tach buzzer. As such, I hit the rev limiter 2 or 3 times a day. I have never had my 8 go into limp mode or do what you describe. Go back, talk calmly with the owner of the dealership about the way you were treated. Not the service manager or the service writer, or the sales manager, or the salesman. Talk to the owner and be very calm about telling him how HIS dealership's service department talked to you. I have used this approach with the owner of different dealerships over the years and it works. I tried the upset approach and it doesn't work. |
cool- I thought it was BS- there were a few things that he said that made me laugh, I may not be a mechanic, but I know things, and what he said didn't add up to me- I just wanted to check with you guys
there's a dealership that's closer to me I can go do anyway- I tend to be "loyal" when it comes to bringing my cars when- when I bring them in he blew it- that's all thanks guys |
mazda master certified rotary mechanic
i've stated this in many threads, go to a dealer that has a mazda master rotary tech on staff. ask their opinion. otherwise you are taking a chance at the dealer you are taking it to, even other mazda dealers. dealerships are not necessarily representive of the parent company. typically independantly owned, hence the previous posting, talk to the owner. the owner wants your business (translate=money) :)
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Originally Posted by RX4+30Years=RX8
Ahhhhhhchoooo, excuse me please, I am alergic to BS.
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
Sounds like someone went to see I-ROBOT :)
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Here's my general experience with my Mazda dealer; although they have been very nice people, we here on this forum know WAY more about how the rotary engine, and the Renesis/RX-8 in particular, work and operate. When it comes to modifying the car/engine, Mazda has very little information available to the mechanics beyond the usual stuff needed to get the basic repair done. Unless the mechanic takes a personal interest in the rotary engine, or chooses to specialize in it, they are so many different models they work on daily that they cannot take more than a basic approach to it. My dealer also sells and repairs Nissan, Porsche, Audi, and VW along with Mazda. As such, I keep my dealer notified of things because of what I learn here.
Charles p.s. My girlfriend is a techie who can easily suspend reality for the sake of a sci-fi movie. I tried to warn her that ANY movie that depends on CGI for 99% of its effects will not be very good. She now agrees with me. |
Originally Posted by Reaper Man
2- you activate the dsc button for more than 5 seconds- as in shutting down the dsc/tcs. He tells me that this causes the car to throw fault codes if done in excess and puts the car in "default" He then proceeds to tell me that the system is there to help me and there's no way I should disengage it unless I'm racing through a slalom course or "showing off". The only time I should disengage the system is to bring the car to the "hairy edge"
But, if you're really wanting to push the performance envelope go ahead and push it. Then it will rev-limit you to 6000rpm and cause loss of power. I thought this guy worked for Isuzu?? Is his name Joe? :p |
D'oh! The dealer bullshit! Unless you aren't warming the engine (coolant/oil) up to normal engine operating temperature before zinging it. (as probably you know, the PCM programming is supposed to limit max. RPM to ~4500 when the engine isn't warmed up, and I don't think that would throw the PCM into limp-mode)
I don't see any reason why what you have described should occur as a result of the driving technique you described. Besides, some of us don't have DSC/TSC. Would our cars always operate in default mode? |
Originally Posted by Nubo
Um, yeah. That would be the button marked "Do Not Press This Button" :rolleyes:
But, if you're really wanting to push the performance envelope go ahead and push it. Then it will rev-limit you to 6000rpm and cause loss of power. I thought this guy worked for Isuzu?? Is his name Joe? :p I loved those commercials:) actually, let's call him "James" and I've always let the car warm up- did the same with the wrx, so I know that's not the problem. oh well |
I got a check engine light yesterday- I've put maybe 20 miles on the car since I got it back- should I take it back to the same dealer or go to a different one?
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For God Sakes Go To A Diff Dealer
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god, do those guys not know their heads from their asses.
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yea, I'm thinking the new dealer- even though I don't think it's the techs that have a problem- just this one asshat that is a "service advisor" I think all he does is tell me what the techs did
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Originally Posted by Reaper Man
I take my car to the dealer today in response to what I simply call limp mode. THe car was hitting a wall at 6k rpm and under load would buck around 4k, no matter what gear.
I take the car in, they have it for a few hours, and this is what they tell/yell at me for after they pulled everything in the computer: 1- I've hit the rev-limiter a few times, tsk tsk tsk 2- you activate the dsc button for more than 5 seconds- as in shutting down the dsc/tcs. He tells me that this causes the car to throw fault codes if done in excess and puts the car in "default" He then proceeds to tell me that the system is there to help me and there's no way I should disengage it unless I'm racing through a slalom course or "showing off". The only time I should disengage the system is to bring the car to the "hairy edge" which mazda encourages (I read into this statement, auto-x is cool with mazda). blah blah blah does this jive with anyone else's experience? the car is back to normal after they've pulled the codes and such. edit- oh yea, and when I told him the idea of the coils- he said that it's almost impossible to ruin those :rolleyes: I've experienced those exact conditions -- Result: catalytic converter. |
i think by hitting the rev limiter they mean youve hit the 9.5K fuel cutoff- not just the buzzer.
so often with dealerships you need to tell them what their job is and how to do it. :P good luck, james |
Originally Posted by ribz
I've experienced those exact conditions -- Result: catalytic converter.
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they found the problem- Catalytic Converter
thanks guys:) oh yea, and different dealer |
the cat has been replaced- holy mother of god what a difference. I don't think I've felt it this good since I bought it
thanks again for all your suggestions:) |
Good to hear you got your problem resolved. This board kick ass big time. Great for pinpointing the root of your RX-8 problems so you can cut the BS and have the dealerships repair the actual cause of the problem.
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