temp,pressure,air/fuel
 

need to know whats the correct .....

oil pressure from start up too warm up

oil temp from start up too warm up

Air/Fuel from start up too warm up

Thank you

anyone

is this a dum ? or no one knows

I am not sure exactly what you are asking, but here is some data:

- Oil pressure is not dependent on "start up". Oil pumps usually produce so much pressure (psi) per 1000 RPMs up to a maximum amount of pressure allowed, with a pop off valve employed to prevent over-pressure. The 8's max oil pressure is around 65 psi and is around 15 psi at idle.

- Oil temp at startup is whatever temp it is outside or in your garage. Oil gradually warms up to operating temp over a 10-20 minute period (yes it takes that long). Oil operating temp for most cars range from 180F to 210F, depending on outside temp and how hard the engine is being pushed.

- Air/Fuel mixtures tend to be very rich right at start up (10/1 or so) and gradually lean out as the engine warms up. Piston cars them try to stay around 14.7/1 (Air/Fuel) when warm to maximize the catalyst cleanup effectiveness, but will get richer when the engine is run hard or in higher RPMs to cool the exhaust and to help prevent premature detonation. Rotaries are similar except that they tend to run a little richer through the range to help cool a very hot exhaust and to prevent early detonation.

i hooked up the temp gauge & oil pressure gauge...funny results

oil temp 90 flashing
prosport gauges digital
oil pressure 145 flashing

i messed something up

nelson:

I'm assuming we're talking Fahrenheit:
- Oil temperature should be much higher then 90 after driving around. When I started my car this morning, it was at 70, got up to 100 after just a minute or so of idling, and got as high as 187 during driving.

Jax is correct on the PSI. It will move depending on load. (aka rpm) I've seen as low as 10, as high as 79 psi on my gauges. Sitting idle after warming up the engine is approximately 15 psi.

It sounds to me like you didn't connect your gagues properly. Flashing doesn't sound normal...
Check your grounds.
Check the connection to the sending units.
Any oil leaks? (look closely)



Here's a quick look at my gaugues after driving around for 25 minutes or so. Notice that the oil temp is much higher then yours and the PSI is sitting low due to the fact that I was idling in front of the house.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3...0130081747.jpg

going too hit it again this morning

for the rb adapter can you use 2 senders?....ie oil pressure and temp?

yea the plate i got does 2

it was a bad ground

oil temp - fine
oil pressure-fine
air/fuel still a problem

This is why I'm the Jedi Master...

Yup, here's a picture of the two sending units. Little guy is temp, big round guy is the pressure

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3...d/P1000540.jpg

oil temp 175 max hot run

oil pressure 20 start

That oil temp sounds about right.
Nelson: was the car completely cold when you started it and got 20? That sounds a bit low upon startup but not out of the ordinary if it was already a bit warm.

What are you seeing for AFR's ?

all of my gauges are now up and running, Cruising speed at about 3500 rpm i am at about 60-65 for oil pressure, and when into the throttle near redline its around 80. oil temp i have not saw above 175 yet, but its been about 35 degrees here so thats probably keeping it cool. air/fuel, steady cruising rpm is about 14.5 to 15. and full throttle its low11's:1. (this is stock without tuning.)

cant hook up air fuel gauge, im lost with that one

im posting video soon

update?

http://youtube.com/watch?v=w-bHt8Eq-sk

heres a video

dont look at air fuel its a mess

still need help with air/fuel

keep getting different answers from people

on a lighter note , minus the problems, the gauges look pretty good. What exactly are you having problems with on the air fuel gauge? what part of the install are you confused about?

where to connect senor wire

and if its on the header how o i get to it

what gauge did you purchase?... wideband or narrowband? Usually an air/fuel gauge comes with a new O2 sensor that needs to be installed. In that case its just power and ground to the gauge, a couple other optional wires, and then a connector that plugs into the new o2 sensor. If you have a gauge that taps into the existing sensor, you will most likely have to tap into the o2 sensor from under the car. This i have never done, I have only installed a new o2 sensor in the exhaust when installing an air/fuel gauge. my suggestion is to just read the instructions and see what it says as far as how to wire it. Maybe if you post up a link to the instructions or put a copy on here?

[IMG]http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4756/scan0001yi9.png[/IMG]
narrow

sorry so big lol

only thing i can suggest is look at the wiring diagram for the car and figure out what wire it is coming off of the sensor. I have a diagram at home but i am at work at the moment. maybe its posted around in another thread somwhere?