This may seem like a silly question to most of you, but I've never heard of "dino" oil. What is it? I assume it's not a synthetic, but I'd never heard the term "dino" before joining this forum. Thanks.

"dino" oil is mineral oil... that is, a petrol product refined from natural crude resevoirs.

it's a hydrocarbon formed in the natural decomposition, heating, and compression of organic materials (like plants, animals, etc). this takes millions of years, so yeah, in some of the deepest deposits, there might have been some dinosaur which has turned into crude, then refined into motor oil.

I just did my first synthetic oil change at 9,000 miles with Royal Purple 5W20. I was prepared to have it out with the dealer, but they didn't say a thing. It could be my imagination...but it did seem to idle ever so slightly smoother. Oh and the check engine light came on 5 minutes later, I freaked out, but it was something unrelated (the gas tank leak test valve thing? that's 2 times now it has tripped)

BTW, has anyone ever use a bypass oil filtration system on their vehicle? I was reading about it on the Amsoil website and it sounds pretty cool. Yeah, I'd like to keep my car running damn near forever too!

I also had the RP synthetic gear lube for the trans and rear end, but they said something about needing additives for the differential or something? Were they blowing smoke up my butt because it's too early to change it out?

I don't think they're blowing smoke. If your car has a LSD (limited slip differential), then you need to use differential lube that's rated for LSDs. All manual RX-8s and the automatic Sport, Touring, and GT have LSDs.

I'm not familiar with RP products - many of us put Red Line 75W-90 Differential Lube in our LSDs and used the MT-90 for our manual transmissions. I highly recommend it because my transmission shifts a lot smoother after doing this.

rx8cited

Royal Purple Max Gear does not require any additives for limited slip differentials, at least according to them. I've had it in both the manual transmission and diff on my FD for a couple years now with no complaints.

jds

NO. There are different types of LSDs, and not all types require a friction modifier. For clutch type LSDs, you need a gear lube with friction modifier. For viscous coupling or Torsen type LSDs, no friction modifier is required. The RX-8 has a Torsen type LSD - no friction modifier/LSD gear lube required, regular GL-5 gear lube is all that is needed.

Regards,
Gordon

LSD additive is only needed in clutch type LSD's.....

I can't believe I just spent 2 hours going over this whole damn tread. I guess I need a life!!!

I contacted my freindly local Amsoil dealer and he stated that both their 5W-20 7500 oil and 0W-20 oil was perfectly safe in rotors. They offer better protection, smoother idle and better fuel economy (no claims on power). I ran Hondalube synthetic in my motorcycle for 23K hard miles and when we tore it down for mods it looked brand new. I realize that they are not the same, but I would love to use synthetic in my 8. I only have 2800 miles on it and did one change with dino oil for break in. Not sure which way to go next change.

with regard to royal purple gear lube it already has the firction modifiers for LSD built into the recipe. I have used RP in my last 3 vehicles and always notice a little more power, easier revs, and cleaner oil at the same change intervals.

YES and now for the other half of the answer, consider this e-mail reply from Dave at Red Line Oil:

So while a differential lube with a friction modifier is not required in our RX-8 LSD, it seems to be a no-brainer to use differential lube that has it! Red Line 75W-90 differential lube and Royal Purple Max Gear both have a friction modifier.

rx8cited

I emailed Redline and they confirmed MT-90 and 75W90 were the correct products for the RX8

OH MY GOD!!!!!

I just got my RX8 2 weeks ago, and knowing that they burn oil, I went out and bought 4 quarts of oil just to keep in my trunk. I bought synthetic. I thought hey, this is one of the more high performance cars that I have ever owned, and I love it, and I want it to last. I plan on driving it hard, but also it sees a lot of trpis to the store, and the elementary school when I pick up my son.

Anyway, point is that I thought that synthecis were best. Better on engine wear, for cold start ups, cleaner burning, etc...

BTW, no where in my manual does it say anything about synthetic or dino. Just the spec 5w20. On a whim, I wanted to check out what other rx8 owners were using, and I find this thread.

Now I am totally confused.

This is what I have extrapoloated from this thread:
Pros for synth:
better for cold start ups
clean burning
increased fuel efficiency
possibly more HP

cons against syth:
remote possiblilty that it could damage the apex seals
higher flash point that some contend could lead to unburned oil
heresay that using synthetics could void the warranty
heresay that using synthetics will adversly affect the longevity of your rotary's life span.

It seems to me that the "pros" list are things that are based more on fact, and that the the "cons" list are based on fear, ancient history and paranoia.

I have decided that the first oil change will be with dino, as I have heard suggestted. This will buy me some time to make a more educated decision about what to use later.

But I am leaning towards either Royal Purple or the Castrol Syntec after that.

Castrol Syntec is not nice stuff.
If you can afford the RP on a regular basis, go for it.
Same for Amsoil.
For a "consumer grade" oil I'd suggest that you stay away from the Castrol and use Mobil 1.

I have a dumb question that is kinda on topic. This is my first non-used car, so I was wondering, when you do your oil change do you need to do it at the dealership or just have proven documentation from anywhere else to keep your warrenty?

Thanks all.

Hi Jeff - please elaborate on that comment a bit if you would.
rx8cited

Just keep your records and make sure the proper oil, meeting the requirements specified in the manual, is used.

jds

I think the quote from the owners manual would be "Use of synthetic oil is dangerous."

I don't know if any one else noticed, but it seems like EVERY stentence starts with "X is dangerous." If you didn't, there is the punchline explained.

(Not to speak for Jeff...)

There was a lawsuit against Castrol by Mobil a few years ago - basically, Castrol changed the formulation of Syntec from a PAO-based oil (PAO being a pure synthesized base stock) to an ultra-refined crude oil base. Mobil contended that since Syntec no longer used a synthetic base, it couldn't be called synthetic oil. Castrol contended that their ultra-refining process (basically, it goes through a hydro-cracking process that recreates the long molecule chains that are responsible for much of the benefits of PAO-synthetics) creates an oil that is as good as PAO-synthetic, and much better than conventionally-refined motor oils. The court agreed with Castrol that the term "synthetic" could be used to mean an oil that is better than conventional oils. Mobil was pissed that Castrol could get away with marketing Syntec as synthetic (and charging the same price for Syntec as other synthetic oils) when their refining/costs were maybe half that of a true synthetic oil (all that said, it's worth noting that Castrol does make a Syntec 0W40 in Belgium (or is it Germany?) that really is a pure PAO synthetic)

So - Castrol Syntec IS actually better than conventional mineral oils, but it's not a true synthetic like Mobil1, Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil. For those who do not want to use synthetic oils in the Renesis because of the concerns - Syntec is actually perfect, because it's not really synthetic, but is a far better mineral oil than anything else! ;)

Regards,
Gordon

Hi Gordon,
Thanks for that reponse. Exactly which synthetic brand / viscosity do you use in your car?

Since I bought early and qualified for the free 4 year maintenance, my car gets dealer dino oil for now.

rx8cited

i just got a new 2005
 

i know alot of you have had yor cars for some time now i jusy bought mine 1 week ago a 2005 AU TRAN i am so confused on the proper oil to use please let me know if you have had this car now for more then 6 months. I don't want o make a mistake.
Thanks

No need to double-post. Go to the other thread for responses.

I've had my car for one yr now and 38,000kms. Since 15,000kms, I've started to do oil change every 5000km with 5w20 Royal Purple SYNTHETIC oil. So far no blown seals, etc. I even gave the oil to my dealership to do my oil change once and they said nothing when they saw the synthetic oil.

You all worry too much, enjoy your 8 it's a kick ass car
 

Royal Purple all the way, in the engine, in the trans and in the diff. Have put on 15,000 miles and change the oil & filter every 5,000 miles. The car runs great, no warrenty issues or problems so far so good.........."Tastes great and less filling" :D

Mazda use only snthetic in the Star Mazda Renesis (stock engine)!
In Germany are 5w30 fullsyntetic recomed.
You should take a look on the sulfur ash percentage that is what stick your seals.

Rotary Engine Break-in Procedures

A proper and careful break-in period for a newly rebuilt engine is extremely important. The break-in procedures listed on the following page may seem excessive. However, an engine that has been broken in properly will see more power across the engine's rpm range and longer service life than a comparable engine that has not. If using the old bearings, please note the difference in hours and mileage requirements for the break-in period.
When breaking in any engine (race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral-based racing oil (20W or 30W). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30W or 40W)

located at
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...1&subject=misc

what kind of motor oil is good for renesis engine?
 

can anyone tell me what type i should use for rx8?