hello everyone,
if anyone can help that would be amazing! dealers cant give me an answer on the torque spec for my 04 mazda rx8 spark plugs. also i was wondering where i can hook up my buddies scanner to get my check engine light off. ive heard its under the dash somewhere? and is it as easy as just hooking it up and then clearing the code?

 

calling people a retard when the person cant even find the OBDII port.

Retard? want me to give ya a mirror so u can see what a retard looks like.

 

the obdII is directly under the dash. What device are you using to clear the code? Depending on the code, you might not want to clear it. (ie; warranty issue)

 

stick ur head under the dash. Youll see a plug

 

hahahahaha ...funny guy! thanks for your input. ill give it a try. you never i could be the retard.

 

thanks!

 

rx8: what device are you using to pull the codes? Not all OBDII scanners can read the mazda codes.

 

Maybe he doesn't need a scanner.... maybe he is using his Jedi Mind tricks to make the rx-8 give him the code with the force....

 

i will let you know. i just left a message with my friend that has the scanner. also i am past my dealer warrenty (50,000 mi.) and have another warrenty that is till 100,000 mi. so i guess i will take a look at it and see if it says anything. thanks!

 

that would be sweet!

 

May the force, be with you !

 

The RX-8 is not OBDII although the plug fits it will not read on an OBDII scanner. The scanner needed has to be CAN compliant to read codes. With an 04 (like mine) you may have one of the older gas caps that tended to not seal properly. If your code shows as an evap system leak it is likely the cap that needs to be replaced.

 

You don't torque spark plugs.

1/2 to 3/4 turn after they are tight like the filter, otherwise you won't get them off.

 

There is only ONE who can do that and bring balance to the Force. It's how I pull codes for local members. My scanalyzer just collects dust.

 

Oh and the tightening torque on the plugs from the manual is:

12.8-17.7 N.m. (131 - 180 kgf.cm, 114-156 in.lbf), don't forget to put anti-seize on the threads.

 

ok thanks. he has a cornwell scanner. i am assuming that is not the same as a CAN (what does that stand for) im pretty sure the light came on when i was doing bout 130 on some back roads and the engine just felt like it gave out a little but that was enough to get that light on. it was like it was trying to switch gears or something. i dont know how the trans works though so.............. i have just an automatic 4 speed that can swith over to manual.....you know what i mean. it sounds like there are 4 main gears and then there are other gears within them. i havent looked up what exaclty is happening. maybe somebody could enlighten me on that. and so i got mixed answers on weather or not to us a torque wrench or just tightin it 1/2 to 3/4 turns. why does one person think thats the way to do it and the others not so much. sounds like both have worked on it before and both have gottin good results.

 

also is there anywhere online to get the workshop manual for 04rx8 that is free. like all i have to do is go to the web site and find it and then download it.

 

Search ?

 

Because they both probably end up within an acceptable torque range. The difference is one person is using the values in the shop manual, which were derived by engineers. The other one is guessing, and fooling themselves into thinking that somehow this means they are not applying torque to the fitting. That being said, I use the "guess" method myself. But I don't limit myself to X number of quarter-turns, I sense the tightness, and I believe I can feel when the compression gasket has flattened and seated. I've made enough tightening mistakes over the years to where I think my guesses are good enough . I suspect I probably over-tighten a bit. The most important precaution to make sure you can remove the plugs in the future is use of anti-sieze compound. And use the prescribed torque values. :D

I do use a torque wrench for the lug-nuts... Some fittings are more critical than others.

 

Excellant! that somes that up. thanks!

 

I agree on the spark plug torque thoughts. Over the years I have use the "calibrated elbow" technique often and I tend to think that overtightening is a little more common without the torque wrench. I started using a torque wrench to ensure that I didn't overtighten especially when using anti-sieze on the threads.

CAN stands for Controller Area Network protocol that allows for enhanced reading of more information from the computer control module in the vehicle. It became the industry standard in 2007 but some manufacturers started using it in 2004 (Mazda/Ford being one). As far as the Cornwell scanner goes, it depends on the model.

 

Awesome! thanks! im really interested in all this. i just started workin on my car and i guess you have to start somewhere and get is much information as ya can. and i figuered aside from buying some of the manuals (that i will definitly have to get) this forum would be a good place to start. dont suppose anyone knows of anywhere on the web that i can download the workshop manual for free?

 

Are the plugs that racing beat sells the same as the ones on sparkplugs.com ? If so that is hell of a mark-up.

 

FYI- NGK recommends Against anti-seize on their plugs, which are the only ones I use. Because the threads are plated, they don’t need it. Not only that, they warn that you’re likely to over tighten them if lubed with anti-seize. Mind you, we’re talking NGK here. I don’t know about other plugs.
Also- the 1/2 to 3/4 turn comment seems very wrong. This is a spark plug that can strip threads, NOT an oil filter with a rubber gasket.
-Either torque it properly, or get it tight then use one little extra “umph” and no more. Personally, I use a torque wrench.

 

+1^
Good point.

Good job on the thread resurrection also.
16 years.
Silver has been gone quite a while now, iIrc.