slave and master cylinder installation..easy??
 

Is it easy to install the slave and master cylinder?

Yes... just remember you need to bleed it afterwards ;)

OK... so I was being an ass with a short answer, I'm sure you wanted a more detailed explanation of the process.
This is assuming you meant the master and slave clutch cylinder and not the master brake cylinder.

Remove the cap for the brake fluid reserviour, place a plastic bag over it, and reinstall the cap.
Since the cap is vented, having the bag there will help create a vacuum and reduce the amount of fluid that'll drip out.

Master clutch cylinder:

1. Disconnect the hose that leads up to the master brake cylinder.
2. Disconnect the hose going to the slave cylinder.
3. Remove the two nuts securing the master clutch cylinder against the firewall.
   They are under the footwell on the clutch pedal assembly.
4. Remove the master clutch cylinder from car.

Slave clutch cylinder:

1. Remove the two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the transmission.
   It can be difficult to break the bolts free from underneath with the limited space.
   I actually found it easier to remove from up top, but that involves removing the UIM and oil filter (which I can remove in a couple minutes).
   From up top I can use a socket wrench with a pipe to act as a breaker bar to break the bolts free.
   But I've done it many times from underneath... its just harder to break them free.
2. On the side of the transmission there is a bracket where the hard and flexible line is coupled.
   Remove the single bolt securing that bracket.
3. Back up top, remove the slave cylinder (the push rod isn't attached to the release fork).
   Removing the bracket in step #2 allows you to bring the whole thing up to work on easier.
4. Disconnect hard line from the slave cylinder.
5. Slave cylinder now free from car.

Installation:
Pretty much doing everything in reverse order.
I will say this... last time I changed out my master clutch cylinder, I had a difficult time pumping fluid through during bleeding.
I bled it several dozen times and could not get fluid to come out.
I even tried vacuum bleeding it with no success.
Ended up removing the master clutch cylinder and poured brake fluid right into it.
Reinstalled the cylinder and bled it some more... and it worked like a charm.

It can be difficult to get a wrench on the slave cylinder and have room to turn it while bleeding.
I found that using a crow's-foot wrench that has a u-joint works great.
I can use the u-joint as a handle to help turn the bleed screw.

And while bleeding, the first couple pumps will result in the pedal staying to the floor.
Remember... its the clutch pedal, not the brake pedal.
Just pick in back up by hand and keep pumping.
Usually by the 3rd time it'll return on its own.

Can the slave and master cylinder keep your clutch pedal stuck to the floor ?

the answer is yes.

a FAILED Clutch Master and/or slave can cause the pedal to "stuck on the floor"

I was the first one to have this problem (on this forum)

I had to replace the thing myself, its not expensive, but with so little space under the car to try to bleed the clutch slave, its just a PITA thing to do

/\...One of the best things about S2, when it comes to Slave Cylinder, No Oil Filter in the way..Woo..hoo..

I hate you, stop telling me good things about S2.

if I go crazy one day and trade my S1 in for a S2 and run into bankruptcy it will be ur fault ! :cussing: :wallbash:

:hahano:

Yeah But...the S2 Oil Filter location is a PITA, swings and roundabouts my friend..

since you sound unsure of if this is even the cause of your problem i would take the easy route and exam your pedal assembly first. takes 2 seconds. then do this.

I'm having the same issue, I installed the new CMC but the pedal doesnt feel like its getting any pressure. any advice? I tried taking off the 14mm bolt where the clutch line goes and pouring in fluid but doesnt work

u need to keep pumping.

Hello, not threadjacking, just curious, can the slave cylinder be bench-bled like a brake master cylinder?

just get a mityvac tool set, it makes life a million times easier.

Thanks for info , I may need in the future lol

and guess what I'm going to do this this weekend wow i posted this last sept and finally needing one cant wait to try to lol

Fill the new master cyclinder with fluid as long as its outside on the bench and bleed it there as much as possible... u wont have much trouble bleeding the rest of the assembly then.

Greetings
Thomas

Make sure you put some brake fluid in the master cylinder before installing it!! I just finished changing mine out and there was no pressure in the master cylinder.

No, do as post 16 suggests, bench bleed it first.

I took out my slave cylinder to get clearance and now struggling to refit. The bolts do not line up as the cable that goes into the fork seems to have gotten longer somehow. I am working from the top of the engine with little space.

The cylinder fits without the cable in the fork.

Been battling for three days. Any ideas on how to move forward. I did not release any pressure from the clutch line when I disconnected the cylinder.

Undo the bleed nipple on the slave and push the piston back in.....you should be able to do it without...but sometimes it is difficult. Make sure the piston is actually in the bore too...they can pop out the end and get stuck

So I've been having a problem with my clutch it sinks in about half way the gets firm towards the end but it's not enough to engage the clutch for me to shift gears I bled the slave cylinder then I replaced it bled it again and I still got the same result. Any recommendation on the next thing I should try?

Sounds like you still have air in it......

They are a bit of a PIA to bleed...either use a pressure bleeder or a MightyVac type vac bleeder and it should be OK.....

Is the master OK?

Bleeding solution
 

After several attempts at bleeding the clutch I think I've figured out the issue.

When you release the pedal do it very slowly. Allow time for the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder, do it to quickly and the seal on the master cylinder will actually draw in a small amount of air. You can hear it if you listen closely while having the pedal released.

Bleed the system three times and was always getting tiny bubbles in the bleed pipe and a soft pedal.

Tried this way and it worked in three pumps no air at all.

Phil

which way do the bolts unscrew?

Standard right-hand thread.
"Righty tighty, lefty loosey."