RX-8 Metering Oil Nozzle/Bolt Connector replacement
 

I am having my 2004 RX-8 engine replaced under warranty (which expires this month) for compression issues after 94k miles. Besides the coils/plugs/wires, the dealer says I need to have the four "engine bolts" replaced which are otherwise known as the "bolt connectors" or "metering oil nozzles" for $383 for all four. Part number is N3H1-14-631B.

The service manager says I need to replace them, and I guess I don't really have any reason to doubt him. Its just that I have had some issues with repair shops recommending things in the past that I found out I didn't really need. I am also kind of short on money and I have not heard of anybody else having to have these replaced.

There is a procedure to test the oil nozzles in the workshop manual. If your dealer followed this test and determined that the nozzles need to be replaced, I would go ahead and do it. People here have definitely replaced their nozzles before, sometimes they're clogged and other times they're leaking. Ask your dealer if they vacuum tested the nozzles if you feel like they're ripping you off.

-Lawrence

Just ask for the old lines back to confirm indeed it did need them. Believe I have only had to replace 1 set before in the past 9 years, so not very common but maybe its a "precautionary" step that dealer takes when doing this job.

The bolts they use on the block are standard 3/8 or 1/2 Banjo bolts (do the metric conversion) so if thats not all they are replacing.

screw that, all u need to "Fix" them is a bottle of Brake cleaner.

buy a can of brake cleaner for 4-5 bux, ask them for the "bad" nozzle, spray at the shorter end once, give a a nice burst, then the other side, Repeat, good as new.

Question. After tracking an oil leak, I ended up removing upper and lower manifold. Two (near the alternator) of the four nozzles seems to be really dirty. I suspect the leak is coming from them. The question is... Apart from removing the alternator, what else would I need to remove? Amoung the alternator, there is also that tube containing wires from the CPU box that is also in the way. Suggestions? Any DIY about this somewhere?

It is an 04 model.

You removed just the upper intake manifold, the lower cannot be removed (well not without major work) with the engine in the car.

The alternator should not have to be removed to get at the oil injectors and lines. Are you not consuming oil?

Perhaps one more question. When I'll put everything back in place, should I reinstall the old manifold gasket, or is this something that should be replace with new ones?

OK perhaps I'm using the wrong term. I called the lower manifol, the second piece of plastic attached to the exhaust.

I am not really consuming oil except for the leak.

The exhaust? The intake does not attach to the exhaust...........

If you mean the orange gaskets on the plastic UIM, they can be reused but replacement is recommended.

Did you actually locate the leak? I doubt the injectors are leaking, if anything it is the oil metering lines.

Sorry, I'm a programmer, not mechanics. There are two black plastics pieces which I removed in order to be able to view where my oil leak came from. One of them I know to be the upper intake manifold. The second one might also be called the upper intake manifold (let say part 2). Whatsoever, after removing this, I finally located more oil. Two of the oil nozzle, (attached to the engine, with the clear plastic line) are cleaned, the other two, near the alternort are dirty. I suspect the leak could come from there. Otherwise, what else in this area could leak? I've already checked the metering oil pump and it's all good.

The black pieces are called the upper intake manifold and the metal lower piece is called the lower intake manifold. It is likely the OMP lines that are leaking but it will be apparent if they are when you remove them.

This is the picture of where I am standing at the moment. As you can see there is a lots of wire in the way, making it difficult to access the nozzles.
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9krpmrx8: Thank you for clarifiying the manifold stuff for me.

Umm, I lied, the last picture (found in another thread) is not where I'm at right now. I have not removed the plastic portion where oil is being poured in the engine.

I've just upload a small video on youtube to show you where I am standing. If, as you suggest it is the OMP line, then would it make sens to find oil along the line down to the Metering oil pump?

If I do not have to remove the alternator, how do you suggest to get access to the nozzles right behind it. There is a lot of wires in the way.

Just remove the adjustment bracket and losen the alternator and push it up out of the way. You can remove it completely if you want, it's not hard. You may need to remove the water pump pulley to get at the bolts for the alternator adjustment bracket. It depends on what tools you have at your disposal.

That oil is likely from the OMP lines. Also, when I remove the plastic upper intake manifold I remove the entire thing as one piece. Having the lower part with the oil filler tube on it removed helps a lot.

What about all the wires in the way? Do you think they can simply be pushed away somehow? Is there anything else you would recommend removing?

Ok, exactly my thought. Any recommendation about removing it? I could be wrong, but I'm expecting oil dripping from this piece no?

The Wiring harness and bracket can be moved out of the way. But you shoudl physically be able to get the injectors and lines out without removing it. But it would sure be easier with the harness unplugged and the bracket unbolted and layed back out of the way.

It's not filled with oil, the oil is in the pan, but there will be some slight drip-page possibly.

You shouldn't have any oil dripping from it...you might have a bit of condensation/oil mixed together if you haven't been driving it long enough to evaporate it off..

It is easier to remove some of the stuff in there than work around it...just take it as it goes...and if something is in the way figure out if it is easier to remove or work around it

If you have a look at the service manual...the re/re instructions usually are decent..and they tell you the best order to remove stuff so that it is easier